From Selling Lemonade To Building a 108-YO Dairy Empire: Journey of Mumbai’s Loved Parsi Dairy Farm
What started with founder Nariman Ardeshir delivering milk cans in Mumbai's Kalbadevi, is now a celebrated empire. The success of Parsi Dairy Farm is rooted in its unwavering commitment to purity, tradition, and familial unity enduring through generations.
Decades ago, if anyone were to ask veteran Bollywood actress Mumtaz where she was heading on a hot summer afternoon, she’d reply, “The Parsi Dairy Farm, of course”. Through the years, her answer hasn’t changed. Today, Mumtaz is not the only name on the influential guest list. Also featured are actors Jim Sarbh and Boman Irani. For a business to be a draw for celebrities as well as the Ambanis, the Birlas, and the Tatas, they must be doing something right!
But as anyone will affirm, a menu boasting scrumptious sweets isn’t the only draw of this dairy venture located off Mumbai’s Princess Street. It is its century-old charm and the recipe that has been passed down through the generations — that is where the magic lies.
For anyone wondering why the Parsi Dairy Farm has continued to see an unwavering customer base for over 108 years now, the proof is literally and metaphorically in the pudding. The history of the business ties back to when a young boy of 16 began delivering milk cans to homes around Kalbadevi (an old neighbourhood in Mumbai).
This wasn’t Nariman Ardeshir’s first choice of a job. Circumstances led him to it, and ambition paved the way to success. Since 1916, when Ardeshir sold his first can of milk, the journey has seen its trajectory of ups interspersed with downs.
But as the fourth generation settles down to chat with The Better India, they say challenges are a part of any business. What sets the Parsi Dairy Farm apart, however, is its recipe for dealing with adversity. The women and children have never shied away from steering the legacy forward when required.
As the cousins laugh over childhood anecdotes, stories of taking the lead in the family legacy and nostalgic memories, one thing is clear — the dairy hasn’t been just a family business, but rather a loved member that has had its own seat at the family table.
Childhood summers and hot piping jalebis
What started as a small dairy set in the winding bylanes of South Mumbai, that could only be spotted if you had a keen eye, is now one of the most easily discoverable places. And the credit goes to the vibrant palette that boasts striking pastels and modern finishes.
The dairy’s metamorphosis from the old factory look to the now spruced-up interiors made waves in September last year. But as Sarfaraz Irani (39) who heads the sales department shares, the family has always loved experimenting. “I remember once when we were kids, we had all our family members over to help us paint one of the storerooms. We wanted to make it vibrant. As a family, we all got together with paintbrushes and got the whole place to look amazing,” he shares.
Needless to say, the activity was a success then, just like the revamped interiors are now. While some of the siblings cherish these family activities, the others hold fond memories involving the mithai.
Parvana Mistry (36) who now heads operations at Parsi Dairy Farm recalls hours spent at the karkhana (factory) when she was little. Her ears would perk up at the sizzle of the sweets being prepared and her eyes would longingly watch the fresh piles of sutarfeni (an Indian speciality made with flour roasted in ghee and blended with melted sugar), eagerly awaiting her turn to taste.
“Till today when I see jalebis, it takes me back to those days,” she fondly recalls.
Besides Parvana stood her sibling Zeenia (37) who had eyes only for the chocolate dips and butter cups. Now a brand director at Parsi Dairy Farm, Zeenia gets nostalgic as she reminiscences the “absolutely exciting” festive days at the shop.
As the day began, the siblings would line up behind the counter, their feet barely touching the floor. Their faces reflected the anticipation of spending a day catering to customers, getting the orders right, counting the cash perfectly and waving the customers goodbye (accompanied by a ‘Come again!’ that they had been taught by their parents).
The jar filled with coins, that jingled when it was moved, meant a successful day for the siblings. And the mad rush of these occasions is what the cousins lived for.
Amidst the chaos, someone would spot a cricket bat lying around. Its owner and one of the siblings Bakhtyar Irani (41) admits it was always his.
“I was the cricketer of the family. And most days I would just come to the shop because there was a children’s toy store next door, and I wanted to buy myself a cricket bat!” Forthcoming about his passion for sports, Bakhtyar, who is now Managing Director at Parsi Dairy Farm, had another favourite pastime too — watching the butter churner and the old-fashioned pasteuriser at the factory.
Speaking of old machinery, Bakhtyar adds that the farm still houses some of the ancient horse carts and carriages, as well as a Gerber that was once used to test milk and an old weighing scale that stood right behind the main entrance of the shop.
As Parvana shares their love for the last antique (“We were tiny and the scale was six times our size. We have spent hours checking our weight on it”), all the cousins agree in unison. And it is evident that though they now head different verticals at the brand, they are united by these core memories.
Humble roots, magnificent wings
A century ago if you walked into the shop, you’d spot a young Ardeshir sitting on his favourite chair and writing on a notebook that lay on the table. The family has preserved this furniture till today and continues to use it. “It’s very close to our hearts. It’s emotionally connected to us,” shares Zeenia.
While they did not get to hear stories of the business from their great-grandfather himself, the cousins heard a lot of these from their grandparents and parents. They have often marvelled at how Ardeshir gave this humble business of delivering milk a radical twist and transformed it into an empire.
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Read more >“Our grandfather lost his father when he was just four years old. He watched his mother struggle to make ends meet. As she was unable to pay his fees, the school wanted to remove him,” Bakhtyar explains.
In the years to come, to make ends meet, the young Ardeshir started selling pens, pencils, books, and stationery outside the school. When World War I broke out, his lemonade was an instant hit among the soldiers. And that’s how he became a popular lad in the area. But Ardeshir’s first tryst with business came when shopkeepers in Kalbadevi began requesting him to sit at their cash counters while they went for lunch.
“There were no CCTVs back then; they needed a trusted person to count the cash,” explains Bakhtyar. Soon, in 1916, Ardeshir began delivering milk cans to households in the area. “He had only one principle in mind: just sell the purest form of milk. And it became a hit from day one. One can became two cans, two cans became 10. There was just no looking back.”
The burgeoning demand for milk led to Nariman buying stables and the rest is history, say the siblings. But despite the fame, Ardeshir never forgot his roots. Zeenia recalls walking into the store one day and observing a woman praying to the photo of Ardeshir that hung on the walls.
Intrigued, “Why are you praying to him?” she asked.
“When I was little, I lost my dad. My mother couldn’t afford milk anymore. But, when she came to return the coupons to your great-grandfather, he said he would supply milk to the family until her children grew up,” the woman had replied.
A sweet formula for success
If you are looking to stop by the Parsi Dairy Farm, Sarfaraz recommends you try the kulfis (traditional Indian ice cream). “They always ring a bell with me. The cool creamy and mouthwatering taste is amazing. It melts in the plate and even the basundi (thickened milk) that comes up is just amazing.”
The revamped Parsi dairy Farm also boasts a ‘Great Indian Toffee Wonderland’, which has an array of delicious sweets (earlier known as milk drops). Growing up these were Bakhtyar’s favourites and now he enjoys the fudge.
While the family prides themselves on their legacy, they mention their mothers who were founding pillars of it. “They took the reigns at a time when it wasn’t common for women to work. Our fathers also were extremely supportive of them doing this; encouraging them and helping them in whatever way that was possible,” says Zeenia.
What’s amazing about having a legacy like this, says Parvana, is that most of the sweets are older than her. “And mind you, they are still made with the same recipe as they were. We make our sweets with the same amount of delight, precision, and tradition.”
While Sarfaraz points out that this consistency is what has kept them relevant even today, the cousins emphasise that the staff who work with them are integral to the success of the family. “Right from the senior heads of the company to the person who sweeps the floor, everybody puts in absolute effort. That’s what makes us what we are,” he says.
It seems fair to say that the Parsi Dairy Farm has been winning the hearts and palates of the city’s residents for over a century. And the love for this legendary business seems to only grow in leaps and bounds with every passing day — a testament to the legacy that Ardeshir wanted to leave behind.
Edited by Pranita Bhat.
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