The dazzling dresses, the grand palaces, and the luxurious lifestyle always attracted me. On a trip to Jaipur, I found myself touching the walls of palaces and havelis and imagining what it would have been like to be one of the royals living in them.

Well, this was a childhood dream, and while it might seem fanciful to many, you can actually experience this dream by staying in a 17th-century haveli (palace) in Rajasthan. 

Rawla Bisalpur, a boutique homestay located near the Jawai Bandh on the Aravalli Range, almost halfway between Udaipur and Jodhpur, is the royal haveli of your dreams. 

“If our walls could talk, they would tell you the brave tales of our ancestors who lived inside the haveli,” Bhanwar Paramveer Singh Deora, the current co-owner of Rawla Bisalpur tells The Better India. 

A Royal Homestay

The bones of the homestay, which is a five-hour drive away from Jaipur,  date back to the 17th century when Paramveer’s ancestors ruled the land. Running the place with his brother, Bhanwar Veer Vinod Singh, he recounts his initial idea of setting up the place. 

“The idea to convert our ancestral home into a homestay hotel came to me while I was pursuing my post-graduation in pharmaceuticals in Mumbai and working in pharmaceutical research and development. Despite having a science background with no prior experience in hospitality, I harboured a dream to create a homestay,” he says. 

The duo decided to move closer to home and start convincing their parents. “My elder brother, an engineer, and I faced significant challenges convincing our parents. They were sceptical and worried that I was too young and that leaving a stable job would waste both time and money,” he shares. 

He continues, “Their scepticism was also rooted in the belief that only large properties, like the grand havelis in Jaipur with 50 or 100 rooms, could attract guests. However, I was convinced that a smaller, more intimate setting would work just as well. After persistent persuasion, my father finally agreed during Diwali in 2017, offering to finance the project while leaving the execution up to me.” 

For several years, they remained deeply involved in the project, networking with individuals in the travel industry and inviting experts to provide feedback. 

“We began the restoration process and in 2019, we proudly opened our homestay, blending our rich heritage with modern hospitality, allowing visitors to experience the charm and history of our ancestral home,” he says. 

During the restoration, the duo decided to maintain the original structure while enhancing the ground floor, which was previously unused.

“Our family continued living on the first floor, keeping our personal and guest spaces separate. The restoration aimed to preserve the original architecture, using local artisans without involving any architects, engineers, or designers due to the small and remote location,” he explains. 

The front façade of the haveli resembles a mud castle built from lime, mud, and bricks without any stonework.

“This traditional construction method has a natural temperature-regulating effect, keeping the interiors warm in winter and cool in summer. We focused on restoring the flooring and ensuring the guests’ comfort while preserving the historical essence of the place.” 

Talking about the problems he faced during the restoration work, he says, “Removing the original big stones from the flooring was a difficult task. Additionally, restoring the area that used to serve as stables was particularly challenging due to its location at the base of a hill, which caused rainwater to flow naturally into the structure. We needed to restore the flooring in this area as well, ensuring it remained true to the original construction methods.”

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“Finding suitable stones and artisans capable of replicating the old techniques was tough. Fortunately, we found a villager, though he had issues with his knee and leg, who was experienced with stonework and helped us restore the flooring to its original condition.”

Of royals and royal stories 

Restoring the place to its original glory while keeping its soul intact was very important due to the rich history of the haveli. 

Recounting the fascinating story, Paramveer says, “Our story dates back approximately 500 years, rooted in the state of Sirohi, which is around 50 km from my current home. My ancestors lived in that area, and in those times, it was common to leave one’s place and fight to secure and travel across lands on the Maharaja’s instructions.”

One notable ancestor of Paramveer resided in Udaipur, near the picturesque Pichola Lake, on a hill known as Haridas Ji Ki Makri—’Malri’ meaning a small hill.

“He lived there with his army. The Maharana of Udaipur had issues with a troublesome tribe in the area where we now live, in Bisalpur. This area was on the border between Jodhpur and Udaipur at that time.”

“The Maharana instructed my ancestor, Rao Haridasi, to suppress these rivals. He successfully conquered the land, and in 1705, this territory, comprising 24 villages, was granted to my family, making us direct subjects of the Maharana. Since then, from 1705 onwards, my family has resided in this area,” he adds. 

The construction of the property has evolved over generations.

“If you look at the pictures, you will notice a distinctive white building with Indo-European architecture, built in 1938 by my great-grandfather. This architecture is unique compared to traditional Rajasthani styles, which often feature intricate jharokhas (overhanging enclosed balconies) and jaali (latticework) designs.” 

“Converting our ancestral home into a hotel in 2019 was a significant step, allowing us to share our rich history and heritage with visitors from around the world,” he adds.

What can you do at the haveli?

Guests visiting the homestay can indulge in a variety of activities, primarily focused on leopard safaris and nature experiences. 

“We offer customised jeep safaris, ensuring a unique and immersive adventure. Upon checking in, guests have the option to enjoy lunch at the homestay or take a packed meal,” he says. 

“In the afternoon, we embark on the safari, bringing along a delightful high tea setup, complete with homemade tea, coffee, cookies, and other treats. We set up near Jawai Lake, a man-made lake constructed by the Maharaja of Jodhpur in 1952 for drinking and agricultural purposes. As the sun sets, we venture out in search of leopards,” he adds. 

After the safari, guests can relax with drinks and enjoy a campfire, sharing stories with fellow travellers.

“For dinner, we offer a unique dining experience in a restored old stable, creating an authentic and cosy atmosphere. Our meals feature regional and seasonal dishes, prepared using 200-year-old family recipes. We source almost all ingredients locally, ensuring fresh and authentic flavours,” he says. 

If guests stay for multiple nights and are interested in bird watching, they organise bird-watching tours around the lake and nearby hilly areas in the mornings. 

‘Armed with high-quality binoculars and cameras, guests can spot and identify various bird species from our comprehensive booklet, which features over 100 birds,” he says. 

“Additionally, we arrange picnics at our farm, where guests can enjoy a traditional farmers’ lunch, ‘Dal Batti Churma,; served in a small hut. This offers a peaceful and picturesque setting to spend the afternoon, weather permitting,” he adds.

Gaby Deeming, who came from London to stay at the homestay, says, “The stay in the magical home was truly amazing. It feels rare and wonderful with very comfortable rooms and traditional decorations. The food was another delight during the stay which I had not experienced before. I also went for the leopard safari and was left absolutely stunned by the place’s landscape.” 

“The idea behind setting up the homestay was also to make sure that this is a place where future generations would want to stay. If I had spent most of my time in the city working a 9 to 5, my kids would not want to come back here. This cycle would repeat itself and the rich culture that this place has would be lost in the debris of time,” he says. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All Pictures Credit: Rawla Bisalpur)

Currently, I am stuck sitting in front of my laptop working and enduring the increasing summer heat but the memories of the good old days keep me happy. But even if I have to work, you don’t have to! The Better India did the heavy lifting for you and has collected a list of jungle stays for a perfect nature escape. 

1. Jungle Hut

In the ’80s, Tamil Nadu natives Joe and Hermie Mathias, who wanted to live a quiet life, retired and used their savings to settle in the Nilgiris’ foothills. In 1986, leveraging the region’s tourism appeal, they established Jungle Hut, a sustainable homestay. Currently run by their son Vikram and his wife Anushri, the homestay is surrounded by wildlife and is a bird-watching haven.  

The homestay offers trekking, jungle safaris, and a swimming pool. Accommodations include classic, premium, and deluxe tent rooms, focusing on a minimalist, eco-friendly setup with homemade food.

Book your stay here. 

2. Kanarkha Homestay 

Located amid the lush green Himalayan forests near Padampuri in the Kumaon region, Uttarakhand, the homestay is a peek into the local cultures. Only a short trek from the Oak tree forests, if you are lucky, you will get a glimpse of the majestic leopards. 

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Surrounded by fruiting trees such as apricots, plums, peaches and pears, nature is in its most raw form in the area. The homestay offers activities such as horseback riding, trekking, nature walks, jungle walks, hiking, bird watching, stargazing, and milking their domestic cows! 

Call on this number — 81783 35056 to book your stay. 

3. The Nature Inn

If you wish to enjoy real solitude and quiet, then ‘The Nature Inn’ sitting on the border of a forest in the hills of Wayanad, Kerala, is the perfect place. After a small trek along the steep uphill track, you finally see the homestay covered with mist and greenery. 

The caretaker James cooks delicious meals for the guests, which often end up being the highlight of their trip. Indulge in the food prepared using locally-grown tapioca and other vegetables or the local-style fish curry sitting on the veranda of the property. 

Call on this number —- 98470 24957 to book your stay. 

4. Dhole’s Den

Dhole’s Den, located 250 km from Bengaluru in Bandipur, offers a unique eco-friendly safari experience located in the Bandipur National Forest. Founded by Karthik and Ingrid Davey in 2009, the homestay focuses on sustainability, using solar and wind energy, composting kitchen waste, and recycling sewage water. 

It features five living spaces inspired by local architecture, designed for natural cooling and light. Guests can explore the surrounding wildlife through safaris and hikes to enjoy the nature around it. 

Book your stay here.

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5. Nongriat Homestay 

Nestled amid the beautiful hills of Khasi in Meghalaya, Nongriat Homestay is a magical escape from the city’s chaos. After following a trail of 5 km crossing the forest with River Umshiang on the side, you reach the cottage. An interesting fact about the homestay is that it is located adjacent to a 180-year-old living root bridge. 

The guests can go for a swim in the natural pools located near the property, they can also take guided nature and forest walks, trekking and star gazing at night. 

Book your stay here. 

6. Forest Side Farm

For as far as the eye can see, at this homestay, you will only see forest and nature. The Forest Side Farm located near Jim Corbett National Park, is every nature lover’s dream destination. Located in Kotabagh, a quaint village in Uttarakhand, the homestay sits on a 2.5-acre large farm next to a dense Sal forest in the Kaladhungi Range. 

The guests can go for walks in the farmland and learn about farm life. They can also travel to the Jim Corbett National Park for a safari. The homestay also has a library with over 200 books to pick from and several board games to enjoy a night in with your family.

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Book your stay here. 

7. Mystic Himalayan Homestay Urgam

Located in the scenic Urgam Valley of Uttarakhand, amid dense Deodar forests, the mystic Himalayan Homestay offers panoramic views of snow capped Himalayas. The homestay wakes up with the colourful hues of the sun peeking through the dense forest and sleeps under the blanket of stars. With a double story traditional mud home with 6 functioning bedrooms, the place is great to spend a getaway with your family and friends. 

The place offers amenities like yoga, meditation, bird watching, hiking, guided village tours, forest walks and trekking. 

Book your stay here. 

8. The Spotted Owlet Farm House

The homestay located close to the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve gives an experience of living in a jungle with the best amenities. Started by Avantika Chandra and Hans Dalal fueled by their passion for wildlife conservation, the homestay is located in a lush orchard with 700 trees.

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The couple with their homestay aim to harmonise with nature and local wildlife by following sustainable practices like rainwater harvesting and permaculture. 

Book your stay here. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

“She had a deep love for nature since back then,” Vinati reminisces. 

Though humoured by their daughter’s request, the couple went ahead and planned the nature trip. That day, Mahima’s friends returned home with beautiful return gifts — books that spoke of the birds and fauna at the national park. As Mahima grew older, her fascination for the outdoors only deepened. And whether it was nature trails, hikes, trips to safaris or afternoon picnics, her parents would always oblige.

Telling these stories gets Vinati chuckling. After all, she sees them as jigsaw pieces that played a role in fortifying the family’s tryst with nature. She says it was only a matter of time before Mahima’s passion rubbed off on her, her husband, and their daughter Ashima, and they grew as intrigued by nature.

Vinati, who is currently based in London, sees those years of innocence as the fabric that wove together the story of O’Land Plantation Stays — a 120-acre estate which she manages. Set in the heart of the Nilgiris, a geographic salient that is spread across Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala, the stay is an ode to responsible tourism.

If you ever happen to be in Coonoor, here’s what we recommend: Get into the car, stock it up with provisions that will last you an hour, and then drive. Don’t let the unsealed roads daunt you. Look for company in the spectacular scenery instead. Keep driving until you spot a carpet of green. This will be your first indication of having arrived at the O’Land Plantation Stay. The place is a great draw for bids, who are attracted by the glorious view — a set of three cottages hugged by a verdant landscape.

And as Vinati and Pavan, the brains behind this oasis emphasise, it makes for a great relaxing stay.

A foray into green endeavours

If the land could talk, it would tell a compelling story. It would begin by sharing how it was conceived by a journalist (Vinati) — who was heading the fundraising arm of one of India’s largest education NGOs ‘Pratham’ till 2022 before she was selected for a fellowship at Stanford University — and an economist (Pavan) — who is at the helm of his startup GIST Impact, a platform focusing on environmental economics.

It would then regale you with stories about how the family set their sights on the concept of a green economy, all thanks to Mahima’s constant coaxing. The homestay has been privy to the family’s greatest moments — which include Pavan being awarded the ‘Tyler Prize for Environmental Achievement’ in 2020, and Vinati’s book ‘East or West: An NRI Mother’s Manual on How to Bring up Desi Children Overseas’ getting global acclaim.

And while the family may now be settled across the globe  — Vinati lives in London, Pavan in Switzerland, Mahima in England, and Ashima in Seattle — a reverence for the environment ties them together. It lies at the heart of everything they undertake.

And, the O’Land Plantation is proof.

It was the stunning landscapes and the desire to not let them be infiltrated with irresponsible tourism that attracted the couple in 2007 when they set out to buy the land. “Pavan felt that if we purchased a crucial piece of territory, which is the elephant corridor, it could be preserved,”  Vinati explains. Dotted with tea and pepper plantations at the time, the couple was responsible for adding to this lush vegetation with fruit trees, vegetable crops, cloves, coffee and other spices.

They were well aware that the economics of organic agriculture aren’t lucrative. The prices did not justify the efforts they were putting in. “But we saw this as our chance to make the authorities wake up and realise the difficulties that organic farmers are facing,” she adds.

In 2011, to sustain their efforts, the couple decided to venture into eco-tourism and started the homestay on the land.

Thrushes and bulbuls for neighbours

At the precipice of starting the eco-friendly stay, Vinati was keen that it be sustainable. “There was already a bungalow on the property called ‘Estate House’, which was built around 1851. We went on to build two more,” she says. She credits architect Chitra Vishwanath of Biome Environmental Solutions — a Bengaluru firm focusing on ecological architecture, for the ingenious construction, and installing solar panels on the land, and the biomass water heaters.

One of the bungalows ‘Pepper House’, she says, is built entirely of CSEB (compressed stabilised earth blocks). “We compressed soil from the property into these blocks instead of transporting bricks from far away areas to the site.” The other bungalow ‘Hornbill House’ is another sustainable rendition built with brick, stone and wood. 

Don’t be fooled by the colonial setting of the bungalows. They have all the modern amenities to make your stay comfortable.

The couple rents out a total of seven rooms shared between the three buildings on the land.

The names of the bungalows, Vinati points out, are an ode to the flora and fauna that one can expect on their trip. Pepper House, for instance, is named after the lush plantations, while Hornbill House is an ode to the ‘vulnerable’ Great Indian Hornbill. The bird comes to nest on the property, along with Nilgiri laughingthrush, yellow-throated bulbul, pied thrush, Nilgiri wood pigeon, Malabar barbet, orange minivet, grey junglefowl, Rufous Babbler and other avian beauties.

When you aren’t being thrilled with birdsong, you will be paid visits by bison, langur, Malabar squirrels, and sloth bears. As Vinati explains, these rendezvous are a result of the strategic location of the land on the border of the sanctuaries. Through time, the land has come to nurture them as its own.

Where solitude plays the perfect host

Vinati maintains that while they encourage guests to relax and unwind in this lap of nature, the place isn’t without its own slice of adventure. The rising mountains cradle yawning valleys; a duo that makes for the perfect backdrop against which the tea gardens are set. “You can watch tea leaves being plucked and help out too,” says Vinati, adding that their tea-tasting sessions are an instant hit.

Prepare to have your sight, smell, taste, and touch delighted as you embark on an afternoon of tea tasting. Let the aroma of steeped tea leaves be your guide as you make your way through green, black, and white teas, and their flavours and essences to find the perfect one. Then raise a toast to the glorious view as you sip on it.

While at O’Land Plantation, Vinati encourages a visit to Sims Park – home to thousands of species of flora, Dolphin’s Nose — a hill that resembles its namesake, Lady Canning Seat — a viewpoint named after Countess Charlotte Canning, Rose Garden, Ooty Lake, Botanical Gardens, Tribal Museum, and an afternoon of golf at Wellington Gymkhana Club.

Then head back to the homestay for lunch, which has hearty accompaniments of lemon pickles, mango pickles, pomelo salad, and generous portions of jackfruit curries.

One of the region’s biggest flexes is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway started in 1899. As the train chugs through the rolling hills with waterfalls mischievously winking through the curtains of blue, make sure you drink the beauty of it all in. Afterall, as Vinati says, the place is a treasure trove to be savoured time and again. “Tourism can be responsible,” she reaffirms, and we cannot disagree. O’Land Plantation underscores sustainability in every corner.

As the blue streaks in the sky deepen to match the shade of the Nilgiri slopes, and clouds scurry home, Vinati seems proud of their creation. She reminisces how a passion for nature led them to start this, and everything that followed has been a step in that direction.

Book your stay here.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

Picture this: Waking up to the gentle gurgling of a nearby river, throwing open your window to greet the crisp morning mist, spending your days basking on shaded balconies overlooking a sparkling river, the sound of flowing water a constant companion.

Forget the AC battles and the endless thirst — pack your bags and head for serenity by the riverside with The Better India.

Is the heatwave making you miserable? Craving a cool escape? We’ve got the perfect remedy — eight idyllic riverside homestays nestled amidst nature, waiting to whisk you away from the city’s burning grip.

Picture this: Waking up to the gentle gurgling of a nearby river, throwing open your window to greet the crisp morning mist, spending your days basking on shaded balconies overlooking a sparkling river, the sound of flowing water a constant companion.

Forget the AC battles and the endless thirst — pack your bags and head for serenity by the riverside with The Better India.

1. Raison D’etre Homestay

In the charming village of Manali in Himachal Pradesh, Raison D’etre homestay beckons you for a genuine Himalayan escape. Created by Shalini and Nitin Beri, this eco-friendly haven prioritises sustainability, offering a chance to reconnect with nature without sacrificing comfort.

Imagine waking up to the gentle murmur of the Beas river flowing right beside the property. Step out onto your balcony and lose yourself in the breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas. Raison D’etre boasts stunning views that will leave you speechless.

Playing a good host, Shalini prepares delicious meals using fresh, local ingredients. Think farm-to-table goodness, with some dishes featuring vegetables grown right on the property. Traditional delicacies like siddu are also on the menu, offering a taste of the local culture.

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Book your stay here.

2. Palighar Homestay

Nestled in Kalimpong, Palighar Homestay beckons with the sounds of nature — chirping crickets, dappled sunlight, and gentle moos. Run by childhood friends and partners who returned to their roots — Ahana and Kabir — Palighar offers a taste of authentic life. Built using traditional mud and bamboo techniques, the homestay prioritises sustainability with composting, minimal plastic use, and natural cooling mud walls.

Spread across 3.5 acres of working farmland, Palighar caters to nature lovers. Enjoy guided walks, learn about terrace farming, have a picnic by the Relli river near the homestay, or simply relax with the diverse birdlife for company.

Foodies can join traditional cooking classes using farm-fresh ingredients for a true farm-to-table experience.

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Book your stay here.

3. Olaulim Backyards

Nestled between Mandovi backwaters in Goa and a river bank, this luxury homestay is the true definition of serenity. While most of the tourists rush to the beaches and parties, the homestay shows the other side of Goa.

The guest can stay in any of their five cottages, unique in size and decor, situated in different levels of foliage in the backyard. They also have a pool overlooking the river offering an uninterrupted view of green fields along the river bank. A perfect place to be outdoors, guests can enjoy canoeing/kayaking, nature walks, bird watching, fishing and cycling.

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Book your stay here.

4. Arco Iris Boutique Homestay

Immerse yourself in the charm of another Goan homestay nestled amidst a sprawling 1.5-acre property in Curtorim. This restored colonial Portuguese manor boasts over 200 years of history, showcasing classic architectural features like a high plinth, imposing columns, and high ceilings that ensure natural ventilation throughout the year.

The property overlooks a seasonal lake and sits in close proximity to the Zuari river, offering a tranquil escape amidst natural beauty. The name ‘Arco Iris’, meaning ‘rainbow’ in Portuguese, perfectly reflects the spirit of the homestay. Each of its five spacious rooms is decorated in a different vibrant colour, creating a truly unique and colourful haven for your Goan getaway.

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Book your stay here.

5. Comfy Cottage Shnongpdeng

A cosy cottage homestay located a short drive from Dawki in Meghalaya, you will need to cross a suspension bridge surrounded by beautiful views to reach the homestay. Sitting beside the crystal clear Umngot River, the homestay is a paradise for nature lovers.

You can enjoy traditional meals sitting on the terrace and enjoying the view of the majestic river. You can also engage in water adventure sports — such as snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking, and canoeing. If you want to enjoy the peace and quiet of nature, you can go for long forest walks and bird-watching walks.

You can book your stay here.

6. Shades of Spring Riverside Homestay

Located in Pahalgam in Kashmir, the homestay is surrounded by mountains on both sides with the Lidder river flowing right next to it. Only a five-minute walking distance from Pahalgam Golf Course, the place has five rooms — all overlooking the river.

The place has a traditional fireplace to keep the homestay warm on cold winter nights. You can enjoy authentic Kashmiri wazwan (a multi-course Kashmiri meal), butter tea, and kahwa (Kashmiri green tea made with whole spices, nuts and saffron) served at the homestay. There are activities such as bird watching, star gazing, village walk, forest walk, fishing and hiking that you can indulge in too.

Book your stay here.

7. Aashraya Homestays

Imagine a haven of tranquillity nestled deep within the hills of Uttarakhand. Aashraya, a 20-minute hike from the main road, offers a breathtaking reward upon arrival. Waking up to the gentle breeze and the mighty Ganges River flowing just outside your window is pure bliss.

Host Depi Chaudhry along with his daughter have lovingly built four cottages, few named after the sacred rivers — Alaknanda, Bhagirathi, Ganga, and a cottage for couples known as Lover’s Pond. Guests can explore the nearby waterfall with a 10-minute trek, embark on a half-day adventure to Shimalu, or plan a longer trek to Amola village.

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Book your stay here.

8. Firefly by The River

Nestled in the quiet village of Madalapura, Coorg, Karnataka, lies Firefly by the River. This haven is built with love by Nina and Captain Prio Chaubey. Sitting on the banks of the Harangi, a tributary of the Kaveri river, this riverside retreat started as a simple two-bedroom cottage — a weekend escape for the couple and their loved ones.

Forget TVs, here, picturesque views from private sit-outs and hammocks strung along the riverside entice you to relax and reconnect with nature. The place offers various activities — such as bird watching, golfing, trekking, plantation tours, and cooking classes.

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Book your stay here.

So, which of these homestays is inviting you to visit this summer?

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

Around 30 km from the Mumbai-Goa National Highway, there lies a space brimming with yellow (mango) hues interspersed with green (paddy). The 40-acre paradise is a lesson in agro-tourism as its owner Ganesh Ashok Ranade explains.

Ganesh had completed his commerce degree when a sudden love for farming eclipsed the job opportunities available to him in the corporate world. He decided to join his father on the farm. Today, the 2,000 mango trees that span for miles are a testament to the father-son duo’s efforts.

Summers at this Ratnagiri getaway promise to be exciting. When you aren’t roaming the farms with Ganesh trying to identify the juiciest produce of the season, you will be fed hearty lunches and dinners by his wife Varada, where (you guessed it) mango is the hero.

A firm believer that one must know what they are consuming, Ganesh treats his guests to a lesson in mango farming, tracing the sapling’s journey right from seed to fruit. What’s more is that you can even live in a mud room whilst at the farm, and experience an authentic farm lifestyle.

Sharing the journey of setting up this homestay that falls in the middle of Maharashtra’s Ratnagiri and Sindhudurg districts, 42-year-old Ganesh says, it is a culmination of a sustainable dream. He credits his father with sowing the seeds.

A tryst with organic farming

Organic farming is not easy — this is what Ganesh realised when he began to delve deeper into the subject around 2002. But even so, as he weighed the long-term fruits (pun intended) of organic techniques with the allures of chemical farming, he knew the former held more promise. 

“In 1978 my father had planted 1,000 mango saplings on the land. He did this at a time when Ratnagiri was experiencing a harsh climate, less rainfall, undeveloped roads and power cuts,” he shares.

He recalls watching his father climbing to heights sometimes, to water the trees when the rain gods weren’t being kind. “But he persisted,” says Ganesh, adding that the 1,000 trees flourished. “When I joined my father in farming, I decided to plant another 1,000 mango saplings, and today, we have over 2,000 mango trees.”

Naturally, the farm always had an audience. People were intrigued at how the father-son duo had created a yellow oasis, and the organic methods they had used to achieve the feat. “We had many guests who wanted to observe how we were preparing our organic fertilisers from cow dung (we had 35 cows in our shed), how we used neem to make our pesticides, and how our mangoes were thriving,” Ganesh points out.

With the farm getting so much attention, Ganesh began thinking along the lines of creating a model which would combine tourism with agriculture but he couldn’t quite put his finger on what this would be; until in 2008, an experience changed him.

You may have heard of food scientist-turned-farmer Chandrasekhar Bhadsavle — famous for introducing the Saguna Rice Technique (SRT) among a handful of farmers in Neral (Karjat) in 2013 and for championing India’s first agro-tourism initiative ‘Saguna Baug’, which is located 75 km from Mumbai.

Once degraded land, the Baug was transformed into a thriving land with food crops, bamboo, livestock and fish; a space that promoted the surrounding wild biodiversity.

One day while on a drive, Ganesh came across Saguna Baug and having heard so much about the place, decided to stop by. They say some things can change your life’s trajectory completely. For Ganesh, a guided tour through the green space with Bhadsavle’s running commentary on how freeing nature could really be was one such experience.

“That was all I needed to confirm my faith in an idea that I had had,” says Ganesh, adding that his vision finally got a name. He decided to build an agro-tourism model.

Where mangoes play host

The minute you step into Ganesh Agro Tourism homestay, you’ll be able to tell the stark difference between the city air from the fresh gusts here. Mango trees move almost melodically, the branches causing a rustle that makes you stop and want to interpret. Watching these beauties and feasting on their fruits constitutes a great time.

Ganesh lets us in on the inception behind this homestay idea: “It was once my father’s packing unit. When we started getting so many guests visiting us to watch our organic farming practices, we thought it would be nice to create a place where they could stay. And so we decided to modify the packing unit into a homestay.”

Currently, the homestay boasts five rooms, with one of them being an authentic mud room. While guests are on the farm, there is plenty to keep them busy, Ganesh says. “When people come in summer, we teach them how to identify ripe mangoes, climb trees, pluck mangoes and then ripen them, and prepare chutneys and juice.”

He adds that in the monsoons, guests are treated to lessons in paddy cultivation. “I take them on tractor rides, let them drive the tractors, and show them our organic harvesting methods.” When farming isn’t keeping guests occupied, Ganesh takes them boating and bird watching, and also lets them in on some mango canning secrets.

Needless to say, mango features in almost every dish at the homestay, sometimes as a side dish, other times as the hero ingredient. Aamti (a spicy, sweet and sour dal), pickles, panna (a cooling Indian summer drink made with unripe green mangoes), chutneys, aamras (a milky drink made with mango pulp), and fresh fruit are some of the delights offered.

As for Ganesh, he maintains that diving into agro-tourism was the best decision. “Agrotourism is beneficial because you get direct customers for your products. These are connections that you make for life.”

Currently, Ganesh’s mangoes make their way to markets in Mumbai, Thane, Kolhapur, Sangli, Nashik, and Pune.

He adds that while they did try their hands out at other vegetables, growing mangoes seemed the most lucrative option. “Aside from the demand for mangoes, there are other factors that make them suitable for us to grow. When we tried growing vegetables, cows would eat them, and we did not have money to hire people who would keep a watch on the fields.”

Thus the family decided to channel their energies into mangoes. And it is a bonus that Ratnagiri’s prowess for the Alphonso mangoes is GI-tag proof.

The reason for Ratnagiri being hailed as the best for Alphonso mangoes, Ganesh says, is the quality of the laterite soil here. “Add to this the favourable climate!” He emphasises that the mangoes he sells are genuine and have a unique identity. The Alphonso mango has long since worn the crown for being one of the sweetest, most aromatic varieties, named after Portuguese general and military specialist Afonso de Albuquerque, who assisted in establishing Portuguese colonies in India.

With notes of citrus and honey, the Ratnagiri Alphonso prides itself on a delicious pulp that is hugged by thin, firm skin with a longer shelf-life than their counterparts. And Ganesh is thrilled to be cultivating this work of art.

For anyone who wonders what Ganesh busies himself with the rest of the year — aside from summers — he cautions, “The mango season lasts for two months. But the other 10 months go into the maintenance of the land, cleaning the gardens, spraying the trees, putting fertiliser, and watching the fruits start to flourish.”

The summer season is when the family reaps the rewards of this hard work. Sharing how a love for nature has always coloured his choices, Ganesh says, “I ventured into farming just out of passion. And it was the best decision.”

To book your stay and experience an authentic farm life, you can reach out to Ganesh at 9422433676.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, the valley’s vibrant meadows, cascading waterfalls, and picturesque landscapes make it a haven for adventure seekers and nature enthusiasts alike.

The journey begins in the charming village of Govindghat and leads you through quaint Himalayan villages alongside the peaceful Pushpawati River. The trek is around 17 km one-way and can be completed in about four to five days, depending on your pace.

As you trek, you’ll find yourself immersed in the natural beauty of the valley, where you can take in the breathtaking sights and sounds of the great outdoors.

Ready to plan your adventure? The Better India has done the homework for you by curating a full itinerary based on insights from travel sites, bloggers and influencers. This means your trek will be easy, smooth, and full of fun, giving you the freedom to soak up every moment of your journey.

So pack your bags and get ready for an unforgettable experience in the magical Valley of Flowers!

Why Valley of Flowers? 

Imagine this — you are surrounded by lush green mountains with crystal clear streams of water running through them. Sounds straight out of a storybook, right? The Valley of Flowers, a UNESCO-protected site will surpass all your expectations.

The Valley of Flowers was discovered by the British mountaineer and botanist Frank Smythe. In 1931, Smythe and his climbing partner R L Holdsworth stumbled upon the valley while returning from a successful expedition to Mount Kamet. Enchanted by the natural beauty of the area, Smythe wrote about his experience in his book, “The Valley of Flowers”, published in 1937.

Aptly put by an Inside Himalayas article, “You don’t quite understand how lucky you are until you get there.”

“Whatever you might have heard, whatever photographs you might have seen, absolutely nothing prepares you for that burst of colour as far as the eyes can see, framed by mist-shrouded, snow-powdered mountain ranges whose tops disappear into the sky. You feel as though you have arrived at the top of the world,” the article elaborates. 

Nestled in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand, the place comes alive in the monsoon months blossoming with flowers of more than 500 varieties including the Himalayan Slipper Orchid, Brahma Kamal, Marsh Marigold, Blue Poppy, Cobra Lily, and Himalayan native Dactylorhiza Hatagirea. 

Apart from the natural allure, the place is also said to have religious significance.

According to a Lifestyle Asia report, “The national park also holds a significant mythological association. According to the epic Ramayana, it is the place where Lord Hanuman found the magical herb “Sanjeevani” to help save Lakshman, brother of Lord Rama, who was injured during the battle between Lord Rama and demon King Ravana.” 

How to reach the valley? 

When planning a trek to the Valley of Flowers in Uttarakhand, it’s important to consider the most convenient modes of transportation to reach your starting point at Govindghat. Here’s how you can get there –

By Car:

You can drive from major cities like Delhi or Dehradun to Govindghat. The journey from Delhi takes approximately 10-12 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. From Delhi, you can also avail public transport from ISBT or Delhi Gate to Rishikesh and take another bus to Joshimath and then to Govindghat.

You’ll travel through major towns such as Rishikesh and Haridwar before reaching Govindghat. The roads are scenic, offering beautiful views of the mountains and rivers along the way.

By Air:

The nearest airport to Govindghat is Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun. From the airport, you can hire a taxi or take a bus to Govindghat. The drive from Dehradun to Govindghat is 286 km and takes approximately 10-12 hours, so you might want to plan your flight arrival time accordingly.

You can opt for public transport from Dehradun to Rishikesh and then to Joshimath and so on.

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By Rail:

The closest railway station to Govindghat is Rishikesh, which is well-connected to major cities in India. Once you arrive at Rishikesh, you can hire a taxi or take a bus to Govindghat. The drive from Rishikesh to Govindghat takes about 10-11 hours.

Once you reach Govindghat, you can begin your trek towards Ghangaria and the Valley of Flowers. Make sure to check the local transportation options and plan your journey ahead of time for a smooth travel experience.

Day-wise itinerary 

We spoke to travellers and bloggers, Himani and Sagar Patel, who travelled to the Valley of Flowers in 2019. The couple completed the trek in 5 days, slowly taking in the natural beauty of the landscapes.

This is their day-wise plan- 

Day 1: The couple drove from Rishikesh to Joshimath. “We reached Joshimath in the evening and checked into a local guest house to recharge ourselves for the upcoming trek,” they shared. 

Day 2: “We trekked till Ghangharia which is around 9 km from the starting point and is at an altitude of around 10,000 ft. We stayed overnight at a campsite in Ghangharia.”

The village serves as the base camp for the Valley of Flowers and has various stay options, eateries and scenic views, making it an ideal place to rest and recharge for the rest of the hike. 

Date 3: “We woke up early the next morning and started our trek to the Valley of Flowers which was around 4 km. We then entered the Valley which is 6-7 km long and ends with a glacier,” the shared. 

Note that there are no eateries inside the park and you will have to carry your own food. “We packed our lunch and ate it with the best views of the valley,” shares Himani. 

Day 4: We trekked from Ghangaria to Hemkund Sahib, which is a steep climb but worth the effort. At the top, we enjoyed the Gurudwara and the serene lake. Hemkund Sahib is the world’s highest Gurudwara at 4,329 m. We had a delicious meal at the Langar and then trekked back down to Ghangaria to stay the night.

Day 5: We started our journey back from Ghangaria to Govindghat, which took about 5 hours. After lunch in Govindghat, we drove back to Joshimath and stayed overnight at the local guest house.

Make sure you carry all your medicines, a raincoat in the monsoons and ample amount of drinking water before you go on the trek. Once you are inside the valley, there are no shops or caretakers to help you out, the couple advises.

Where to stay in the magical valley?

Keeping in mind your flights/train timings, you might consider staying to book a stay in Rishikesh. Here are some homestays and hostels that you can book. 

Since no camps or stays are allowed inside the valley, you will have to book stays at Govinath, and Hemkund Sahib depending on your itinerary. Here is a list of stays that you can book. 

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The park will be open for travellers and trekkers from June onwards and we recommend that this will be the best time to plan your travels. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All free images)

In a while, the city will begin to rise. But when it does, the only sounds that make it to your ears are those of fellow joggers trying to catch their breath, laughter in the distance, a bicycle bell, and the occasional music streaming out of a radio.

This isn’t a scene out of an alternate universe. For many of India’s villages, it is a reality. Even as their residents plough through their lives, sustainability and cleanliness are not put on the back burner. And their initiatives are setting an example for India to follow.

1.  ‘Curtail plastic’ — Majuli, Assam

As tourists cruise through the Brahmaputra river, they cannot help but admire the majestic water body and its surrounding islands. A must-visit spot here is Majuli in Assam’s Jorhat. Along with making headlines for being the first island in India to be given a district status, the cleanliness model of Majuli has caught attention. Their bamboo homes ensure a low carbon footprint, while the residents can often be seen with brooms in hand, attempting to clean their beloved island.

But, these lessons in cleanliness aren’t the only takeaways. During your visit, you will encounter the Mishing tribe. They are firm believers in ‘Donyi Polo’, a religious system founded on the principle that everything in the universe is interconnected.

2. ‘Organise clean up drives’ — Yana, Karnataka

Touted as one of the wettest villages in the world, Yana in Karnataka draws tourists with its rock outcrops formed from solid, black, crystalline karst limestone. A 0.5 km trek from the Kumta-Sirsi Highway, these rock outcrops have become a religious pilgrim point. Devotees flock to pay their respects to the swayambhu linga (self-originated idol) in the caves formed by the outcrops. As the name suggests, the idol is a result of geological processes and has formed naturally.

What is remarkable is that despite heavy tourist inflow, Yana has maintained its status as the cleanest village in the state. And this owes to the regular cleanup drives conducted by the forest department. In some areas of the cave, wearing footwear is discouraged, also adding to the hygiene quotient.

3. ‘Sweep the area clean’  — Khonoma, Nagaland

Birds whisper into the ears of every person walking down the roads of Khonoma village in Nagaland. Take time to listen. To anyone who looks up to Asia’s first green village for a solution to sustainability, it will tell you ‘just plant more trees’; a green cover can outweigh everything else.

Khonoma wasn’t always on this path. You’d be surprised to know that the village was battling deforestation in the late 1990s. The residents took it upon themselves to ban the cutting down of trees.

Today, the land is pristine as paddy and forests dot the landscape. The people of Khonoma have displayed resilience in protecting the endangered bird ‘Blyth’s Tragopan’, which tourists now flock to see. They have also undertaken other green measures.

As an article in Morung Express notes, every Saturday morning, schoolchildren across the village get to work, emptying out the dustbins along the paths. The activity has taken place twice a month since 2005 when Khonoma was declared a ‘green village’, and the children seem only too happy to lend a hand.

4. ‘Use local building material’ — Nako, Himachal Pradesh

Nothing beats the view you get of the Himalayas from this village nestled on the Indo-Tibetan border in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh. But the glorious scenery and waterfalls —- that legend says are the homes of fairies here — aren’t the only fantasy elements.

The village air is said to be so crisp that it hurts to breathe it in! One could credit the Lipa Asrang sanctuary with its host of conifers and alpine scrubs for the pure air. But the villagers too deserve a mention. Here, cleanliness is not an advice, it is an obligation. Roadside garbage bins dot the streets and signs of ‘Keep Nako Clean and Green’ are frequent sights.

Additionally, buildings made out of rammed earth, stone and other local materials ensure that construction activities do not involve materials being transported over long distances, thus going a long way in curbing pollution on the road.

5. ‘Build toilets’ — Mawlynnong, Meghalaya

Literacy is an integral factor in contributing to a clean country. Proof of this lies in the Khasi village Mawlynnong near the Meghalaya-Bangladesh border, which boasts of two things — being Asia’s cleanest village and having a 93.71 percent literacy rate according to the 2011 census. Good civic sense lies at the core.

The village has a meagre population that works very hard to keep the surroundings clean. To limit pollution, the village discourages tourist vehicles and one must walk on foot. But you won’t be alone. Orchards, chirping birds and beautiful scenic sights will keep you company.

So, how has Mawlynnong achieved what it set out to do?

Plastic is banned. Any shred of plastic that does manage to find its way into the village is repurposed, as burning it would only create fumes. It is a very common sight to see groups of villagers clean their surroundings with teasel brooms. The activity is rigorous with every last leaf being swept away. In fact, the residents of the village do not shy away from picking up anyone’s fallen garbage.

Every empty space is seen as a potential ground for flowers to bloom. Using local materials to build their homes helps the people of Mawlynnong reduce their carbon footprint.

To curb open defecation, the construction of toilets in homes and public spaces was amped up and has proven to be a success.

6. ‘Introduce solar street lights’ — Chitkul, Himachal Pradesh

The last inhabited sanctuary before the Indo-Tibetan border, Chitkul’s strategic geographic location makes the village a spectator to breathtaking landscapes. But don’t let the scenic beauty eclipse the real hero — the efforts of the villagers to engage in reforestation, organic farming, and eco-friendly practices.

When the village residents aren’t optimising their agricultural practices, they focus their efforts on promoting eco-friendly materials as alternatives to plastic, segregating their waste, replacing traditional lighting with LED lights, and exploring renewable energy options. One of the boons has been the introduction of solar street lights.

7. ‘Optimise sewage treatment systems’ — Dawar, Jammu

The crown of the Gurez valley is the village of Dawar, home to the Shina tribal community. While traditional handicrafts like pattu and gurezi chadar, cultural events such as the Gurez Festival, and the availability of exotic Himalayan medicinal herbs have enhanced tourist footfall, the village has managed to preserve its sanitation and cleanliness.

The villagers ensure they are keeping their carbon footprint in check by resorting to wooden log homes instead of cement, planting more trees to increase the green cover, banning plastic bags and creating a waste disposal system. They have also developed a sewage system which has contributed to the model’s success.

8. ‘Plant more trees’ — Piplantri, Rajasthan

For the people of Piplantri in the Rajsamand district of Rajasthan, the birth of a girl child meant “bad news”. But a gentleman Shyam Sunder Paliwal transformed this mindset, and with it, the village’s landscape too.

He believed that if the parents of newborn girls planted trees and nurtured them for 18 years, they could arrange enough money for the girl’s wedding when she came of age. So, to celebrate the birth of a girl child, 111 trees are planted by the family.

Rural India can take a leaf out of Piplantri’s book. A few years ago, due to the increasing number of white marble mines and limited tree cover, water was scarce in the village, health problems were rampant, and there was no food to eat. Paliwal’s idea has created a revolution.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

For most of my childhood, this picture-perfect dream was my life during the summer vacations. With my tummy full of delicious meals, I would simply enjoy spending my time exploring the farms near my grandma’s home with my little brother.

While all of this might sound like a far-fetched idea to you, there is a quaint home nestled in the sleepy town of Kalimpong that promises all this and more.

“Palighar is steeped in tradition and authentic rustic life. It is a two bedroom homestay where we try to connect our guests with the local culture, food, flora and fauna,” Ahana Gurung, the co-founder of Palighar Homestay tells The Better India.  

Returning to the roots

Born and raised in Kalimpong, West Bengal, the couple running the homestay, Ahana and Kabir Pradhan, were childhood friends. “We moved to different cities for our education and job but we longed for our home. That longing brought us back,” shares Kabir. 

Ahana shares how in the small hill station, with fewer work opportunities, “most of the talent moves out.” 

“Working outside is a common trend and the people from our generation never really come back home. Kabir and I always had this idea, that we would come home and do something that would employ more local people,” she shares. 

For Kabir, who worked in the hospitality industry, starting a homestay seemed like a natural path. 

“We had a lot of ancestral land and farms that I utilised to make a farm stay and give people a peek into the culture here,” he says. 

Moving from the city to his homeland was a decision of a lifetime. Kabir took the leap in 2016, quit his job and moved. 

His move was soon followed by Ahana in 2020. “We were fortunate enough to have ancestral land in a great location to begin with. While Kabir worked on building the property, I worked remotely to market the property before finally moving back,” says Ahana. 

In 2018, Palighar opened its gates to its first guests. Since then, the homestay has hosted over 500 happy guests. 

Steeped in tradition and sustainability 

Palighar is the kind of homestay that smells of customs and traditions with a mix of luxury and nature.

“One thing that we wanted to make sure that the homestay gives the guests is an authentic escape from their city lives,” says Ahana. 

Kabir shares that growing up, he noticed how the houses in the area were being modernised. “The old-school mud homes with sloping bamboo roofs, which were the essence of the area, were all gone. In losing our traditional architecture, I felt like I was losing the customs and traditions too,” he says. 

Wanting to preserve the traditional culture, he decided to use a traditional technique called Irka to make the home. “Essentially, what the technique involves is using bamboo, wood and mud to make the home. The mud, mixed with dung and straw, is plastered on a wooden frame woven with bamboo,” he explains. 

Additionally, Kabir explains, “We also made mud bricks which are baked in the sun. We used the land from our own property which helped us reduce our carbon footprint. We were really conscious of the impact we have on the nature around us.” 

Additionally, Ahana also points out that another reason to use mud is that it is a natural coolant. “While the temperatures in these areas have typically been low, we are seeing hotter days now. We wanted to use a method that keeps the house cool naturally which is why we used mud,” she says. 

The homestay currently has two ensuite rooms and a common dining area. The property is located on 3.5 acres of paddy and maize fields. It offers scenic outdoors with a glimpse into the mountain farm life. 

“We have multiple lawns for you to take walks in and a gazebo-style seating area where you can sip delicious Darjeeling tea,” says Kabir. 

Besides being made with natural materials, the homestay also follows an eco-friendly philosophy.

“We minimise the use of practice. We encourage our guests not to bring their own water as we provide them with filtered water over bottled water. We also compost all our kitchen waste and leaves. This compost eventually goes back to our fields,” says Kabir. 

He also shows the process of mulching and composting to the guests to encourage them to pick up the practice.

The place is also a haven for bird watchers and nature lovers. “In the last seven years, we have tried to make a habitat for butterflies, insects and birds. We see a lot of different insects and birds flocking in the area such as Rent Vented Bulbul, Common Tailorbird, Gray Treepie etc” says Ahana. 

How to spend 48 hours at Palighar

Besides spending your time admiring the traditional cottages, there are a few activities that you can indulge in at the Palighar Homestay. 

Ahana, the brains behind the activities, says, “As a destination, Palighar is outside the town area of Kalimpong. The guests who ideally come and stay with us are looking for a calm vacation and that is what we try to give them.” 

Once the guests arrive, the couple briefs them about the property and the surroundings. “Once they have settled in, we also give them a list of activities that we do. The guests can walk with us and trek to the villages nearby,” Kabir says. 

“During the trek, we encourage them to interact with the villagers and understand their ways of living. If our guests are interested, we also explain the various aspects of terrace farming with a live demonstration. It’s a common practice in the area,” he adds. 

Additionally, the guests can also go on a longer trek to River Relli, where they can have a small picnic. 

“We also hold cooking classes for the guests who want to cook our traditional dishes. The dishes that are served are all traditional Nepali, Tibetan and Bhutanese dishes used with ingredients from our farm and the surrounding farms,” shares. 

She continues, ”Living in the city and eating pesticide-infused foods made me realise the importance of farm foods. This is why I wanted to ensure that all my guests get a truly farm-to-table experience.”

Hosting hundreds of guests so far, the couple emphasised the growing trend of slow travel. “Initially we only had guests from outside India staying with us. However, we are currently seeing a shift in trend and hosting a lot of people from across the country,” says Kabir. 

If you wish to stay at Palighar, book your visit here. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All pictures credit: Palighar Homestay)

Though a sprawling paradise of a place, the little girl does not need to wander much to find her mother. She is bound to be in her pottery studio that sits beside the towering tamarind tree. Right enough, Kavita is moulding wet clay into utensils and delicate urns that she neatly arranges along the studio’s many shelves.

Devaki watches on intently, admiring the alchemy of clay being given life through these items. Then, once she is sure she isn’t interrupting the process, she begins to chat. “This is my favourite part,” she tells The Better India. “Another favourite part of my day is playing with my friend Deep.” As Kavita explains, Deep is the caretaker’s son who has grown up alongside Devaki on the land.

“We pretend play, swing, do gymnastics, run, skateboard,” Devaki continues, thoughtfully adding, “I am always looking out for the animals and birds. Sometimes Deep and I act as the animal rescue team.”

You’d agree that Devaki is a lucky girl. Not many are fortunate to grow up away from the chokehold of technology but instead surrounded by paddy fields, flower beds, and streams. In 2020, when Kavita and Manoj decided to take the plunge and quit their corporate roles — Kavita was working with Vodafone and Manoj with HDFC — they were sceptical about how this would change the trajectory of their lives.

Today, in hindsight, they see it as the best decision. “Devaki appreciates everything we do for the land, including growing our own vegetables. She is exposed to so many new things; topics that go beyond traditional education,” shares Kavita.

Letting us in on another fun fact, she says, 12 years ago when she and Manoj bought the land where the homestay now stands, they meant for it to be a space they could retire to or vacation at. Relocating wasn’t on the cards.

What changed their minds?

“The place is so beautiful, you have to see it to believe it,” Kavita coaxes me. She goes on to add, “I believe homes are meant to be lived in. But when we built this place six years ago, it was only occupied for around a month every year; when we came here for a holiday or when we let our friends use the place. It stood empty otherwise.”

It seemed a waste; a gorgeous place like this demanded an audience. And so, in 2020 the couple shifted addresses from Mumbai to Goa, where their labour of love was waiting for them. In an attempt to welcome people from across India and the world to experience the magic of Anjuna, they started the homestay concept that year. And since then, the house hasn’t seen a dull moment.

Hearing their guests, who flock there, raving about the homestay, is music to Kavita and Manoj’s ears for more reasons than one. The land has almost been like their baby; one that has grown up with Devaki.

Learning entrepreneurship along the way

Twelve years ago, the couple recalls standing on the same spot, staring at a 150-year-old dilapidated house, which was infested with termites, as they soon discovered. It eclipsed the beauty of the land, one which had immense potential, according to the home’s new stewards.

“We couldn’t restore the house; it was in a very bad shape,” Kavita shares. So, they decided to take it down once they bought the land, preserve the walls, but build a new home from the ground up. Using stone and broken tiles along with other construction materials, the couple completed this house and an adjoining guest cottage.

They then proceeded to make the land arable. Manoj, for one, has learnt a lot while working with soil. “It is indeed a great leveller. You can’t predict it; the permutations and combinations are insane, and I have learnt patience and the art of trying even after failing countless times.” But when the family enjoys sweet mangoes and pulpy vegetables at the dinner table every day, Manoj is reminded of how the land always repays kindly.

It is amazing how a land once uncultivable is now a thriving oasis. “We had to mulch the soil using vermicompost which we purchased from the locals and then learn the planting cycle that works well in the region,” Manoj explains.

Their caretakers were of immense help. “They have grown up learning these things. I think we make a good team,” Manoj smiles. “There’s me trying to bring some science and logic to the table, and them with their practical knowledge.” The raw finesse exuded by the fields is a testament to the efforts of the staff.

Guests marvel at the scores of butterflies here. The honeysuckle is a draw for them. Kavita, who has tended to the flowers through these years is amused. “Many people advised us that we’d have more flowers if we used chemicals to fertilise the land. But, I thought that if I could contribute in some manner to the land that I own by not putting any chemicals into it, I should.” She adds, “Soil has a mind of its own, and so we’ve had to learn everything from scratch.”

Today, Parijaat Goa Homestay is self-sufficient in coconut, black pepper, turmeric, mint, spinach and tamarind. “We also grow seasonal vegetables,” Manoj says, adding after a pause, “if the peacocks allow them to.” The pompous birds make frequent visits to the land, sometimes looking for food, other times for company. And guests are more than thrilled with these visits.

The flowers are beckoning

Eight years ago little Devaki planted a parijaat flower on the land. Known as night jasmine, the flowers have a stark fragrance, a time capsule for Kavita who grew up under the watchful eye of her grandparents. “My grandmother used to love these flowers for the aroma they gave off. While growing up there was a parijaat plant in front of the house too.” Thus, the conflation seemed apt and made its way to the homestay’s name.

Guests who have stayed at the homestay are in awe of it. “From watching sunrises through the branches of the mango tree, the charm of traditional Kerala heritage and architecture of the house with its lush greenery and tall coconut trees, our Goa visit became more special because of Parijaat,” Vanshika Sethi, a guest, notes.

During your stay at Parijaat Goa, you will be put up in the guest cottage that features two double rooms — Magpie Robin and Drongo.

These are endowed with amenities — such as a king-size bed, a writing desk, air conditioning, a luxe bathroom, and books — and interspersed between them all is an old-world charm. The rustic magic of old Goan homes is sustained at the property, the stained glass windows that strategically filter in the Goa sun that snakes its way through the palm trees ensure this. The coconuts, explains Kavita, go into making coconut oil and milk for the food prepared here. As do the mangoes. The pickles and muraba (a sweet preserve) can testify to this!

The peels of the produce go into making compost that nourishes the land. “A circular economy,” Kavita proudly declares.

When she isn’t busy humming around her beloved flowers, Kavita can be found in the pottery studio. “It gives me great joy,” she goes on to share an amusing story. “The tamarind tree has been on the property for years now. And recently I had the pottery studio built in front of it. I have many guests who visit the studio for classes, and I am certain that this spike in human interaction in the past year has in some way influenced the tree. Because now it is giving us so much tamarind, much more than before!”

This further fuels her theory that homes and nature also need company sometimes.

At the Parijaat Goa Homestay, food is always prepared fresh and the guests swear by the shakshouka and poie (eggs poached in a flavourful sauce and eaten along with Goan bread), ⁠appam (a thin pancake) and stew, and their ⁠idli, sambhar, and chutney.

The Nair family treats every guest like their own. Through the years, the kind of response the homestay has seen has been a nod to Kavita and Manoj’s efforts. “I remember when we first saw this piece of land, it was way beyond our budget,” Kavita shares. “But I saw potential in it. Once you come to visit us, you will believe it for yourself.”

Edited by Pranita Bhat

The virgin landscape boasts a challenging steep climb and Meenakshi Singh was unsure whether her knee could bear the brunt of the terrain. When she was inclined to back out, the girls wouldn’t hear of it; amping her positivity with every step she took.

Articulating this “once-in-a-lifetime” experience, Meenakshi says the girls in her group never gave up on her. “They almost pulled me half-way! One of them was carrying my bag, another giving me water at every few stops, and eventually, we made it to the finish point,” she shares.

As the group gathered around their hero, it was evident that this was a collective win. Cold water was relished at the top and biscuits were passed around.

That day, the hills of Dzuko witnessed friendship at its best. And no one looking on would be able to tell that just a few days back, these girls had been strangers to each other.

“That’s what travel does to you,” says Zinal Doshi, leader of this iconic trek and founder of ‘The Flapper Life’. The experiential travel platform is making solo travel possible for Indian women, arguably a tough feat to accomplish, according to Zinal.

Helping women like Meenakshi realise their mettle is exactly what the Mumbai girl set out to do when she quit her 14-year-long banking career to launch a travel startup in 2016.

Being at the helm of a venture that is breaking social constructs of solo travel, changing the status quo that once required women to have “company to feel safe” and helping women not be so dismissive of themselves, is tough. But Zinal says there is fun in the challenge.

Conversations with friends and personal experience had led her to conclude that women were always “waiting for someone’s okay” when it came to travel. “Sometimes for their family’s approval and sometimes for their friend’s plans to sync,” she adds. “I realised women do not get to travel when they want to.”

In fact, her own travel history too resembled this.

Is the place safe? What about transport? What about logistical details? Questions like these would plague her mind before every trip. And so, driven by a desire to make travel a safe and enjoyable experience, Zinal started ‘The Flapper Life’ that is by women and for women; one that puts the map in women’s hands with the freedom to choose the next stop.

Handing women back their agency

Nagaland was one of the many trips that Meenakshi has been on. The others include Meghalaya, Satpura, and Tadoba. What these trips did aside from introducing her to new cultures and landscapes, is that they unveiled a new side of her. From perceiving fun as something “alien” to finding joy in her own company, Meenakshi was amused by how travel can be just the antidote you need. As for her tryst with scaling the valley with an injured knee and bonding with her peers, she says, the trip “made us believe in the goodness of friendship and connections that you can forge within a few days”.

Zinal concedes. “There is a certain power in women coming together. On these trips, we see a lot of sharing happen, and often these women return more powerful. They bond over similar issues that they are experiencing and take strength from this.”

She adds, “From a mental health perspective, these trips are a major boost.”

Recalling one of the trips to Ladakh in 2018 where she spoke at length to one of the women joining, she says, the latter was going through an ordeal in her personal life. “I was zapped and numb for a few hours to think that someone was dealing with so much.”

A few months later, Zinal heard that not only had this woman taken matters into her own hands and moved jobs, but she’d also addressed her mental health, and was in a much better space. “Travel can sometimes help you see clearly,” Zinal affirms. 

Sharing another heartwarming story that backs this thought, Zinal speaks about a woman who joined them on one of their trips. A housewife at the time, she shared the woes of funding a trip by oneself. Since she wanted to make travel a part of her lifestyle, and do trips like this frequently, she shared her plans of getting back to work. “She resolved to get a job that would allow her to balance professional and personal life and earn to pay for her trips,” Zinal notes.

And she did just that. Travel can be an eye-opener.

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Inspiration at every turn

While The Flapper Life has excelled at building a community of women who have each other’s backs, Zinal can’t deny it has come with its set of challenges.

“It was extremely difficult,” she notes referring to the initial years of establishing the venture. “In the early days, you have to play every role — that of a CEO, an accounts manager, a courier person, and this is easier said than done.”

Being a woman attempting to start something for women is no piece of cake, she deduced. “But you’ve just got to be strong enough to make sure that you are taken seriously by becoming persistent in what you want.”

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While The Flapper Life has seen its share of wins and losses, “For the first few years, it was tough getting customers as women do not trust a new startup easily. Add to that competitors who are in a very senior league; it does take time to establish credibility.” Zinal hasn’t lost sight of the goal.

From two ‘flappers’ to now 10 who are an integral part of the team, the journey has been telling.

Every trip is unique and women who have travelled with Zinal say the highlight of the trip is that it lets you break out of the confines of everyday. Adventure is the theme of the day and the idea is to let your hair down as you explore the place.

That’s where the name borrows from, emphasises Zinal. “A flapper is someone who just wants to go out and have fun. It’s a woman who wants to get out of her comfort zone and say yes to the life she has always wanted to create.”

When she sees women of the previous generations, Zinal says a lack of support and opportunity were the factors that held them back from new experiences. “So today, I am thrilled when women come on board and decide to join us. Because it has a ripple effect of other women who want to follow suit.”

With 200 trips conducted so far across destinations like Bhutan, Meghalaya, Ladakh, Rajasthan, Chennai, Bali, Singapore, and Vietnam among others, the bucket list is only growing wider. During COVID-19 the platform also started one-day trips and experiences for women who couldn’t make time for longer getaways. “The one-day experiences are a perfect way for them to unwind,” she remarks.

Zinal is living the dream through her venture. “Initially, when you are in a corporate job, you’re hustling, but there is always a lingering dream at the back of your mind of all the destinations you want to travel to.” To this end, she says fulfilling her own dream was one part of the story. “Creating a platform that lets women live their dreams judgement-free is the other.”

Edited by Pranita Bhat

“In Room 4, the safe in the wall has not been opened in a 150 years…It has seen history, life changing, aging — but no one knows what lies within. But what is inside? — The first owner’s ashes, her will, wealth, gold; old currencies, lover’s relics?” the first couple of stanzas read.

While this does make for a very compelling read, Siddarth Saikia, the owner and manager of affairs at the homestay, says it isn’t a piece of fiction; the safe exists. “The key is lost in time, and the safe’s outer frame bears many markings. Many have tried to prise it open to check what it contains, but it won’t budge,” he shares.

Even a professional locksmith, who couldn’t get through, informed Siddarth and the family that the safe’s rusted interiors and strategic position within the wall meant that the only way to crack it open would be to break down the wall itself. And no one wanted to resort to this option. 

So, to this day, the safe lies untouched by the fingers of time, holding within it many mysteries and adding its own little bit of intrigue to the property.

But, attractive as it is, this isn’t the only draw at the Gratitude Heritage homestay helmed by a mother-son duo from Delhi. The vibrant yellows of the bungalow are a sight for sore eyes, its layout offering pockets of unexpected calm to the weary traveller or to anyone who comes looking for some peace and quiet.

Would you believe it if you were told that not more than two decades ago, this sprawling paradise was a “crumbling and dilapidated spot”?

We didn’t, and so, Siddarth settled down for a tete-a-tete with The Better India, to unpeel the fascinating layers that lie beneath the homestays’ past.

‘My mother fell in love with a crumbling house’

Jyoti Cariappa Saikia (67), a staunch devotee of Shri Aurobindo — who is also credited with inspiring the Auroville Township project — would make frequent trips to Puducherry. It would be lovely to have a place of my own, she thought. But months of scouting for apartments yielded no results. Until one day, in 2004, when Jyoti spotted a crumbling home that was up for sale.

The owner, an elderly woman in her seventies was looking to relocate to Marseille in France where her children had moved. Elated at the “pure coincidence”, Jyoti made an offer for the property.

When asked the reason for her spur-of-the-moment decision, she says it was a special vibe. “It made it impossible to walk away even though I had set out looking for a smaller and easier-to-maintain apartment,” she reiterates.

We don’t blame her. The 200-year-old tale of Gratitude Heritage would pale any history lesson in comparison.

It has watched the world evolve; from the 18th century — when Puducherry was rife with traders, engineers and builders who came to work with the French East India Company — to the present day. It is undeniable that the French left their indelible imprint on the city; the town still reflects French sensibilities in the language, art, culture and the settlements.

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And Gratitude Heritage is one of history’s best-kept secrets.

The story of the home traces back to the early 1700s when Abraham Guerre, from the French-speaking province of St.Imier in Switzerland, came to Puducherry to work as a hospital administrator with the French East India Company. Abraham and his wife Marie Brunet had nine children, the third of whom Jacques Guerre inherited the house and sold it to a gentleman Francois Ulmans Marie Clark Michel in 1940.

It was one of Francois’s descendants who sold the home to Jyoti, who saw the location as an incentive to be in close quarters to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Her mind was already racing with ideas of restoring the property to its original glory, equipping it with amenities while preserving its ancient mystique.

Jyoti credits architect Ajit Koujalgi of INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) for lending his expertise to see this to fruition. She recalls, “I remember some interesting side trips looking for authentic doors, windows, and wooden beams to restore and build the property. It was challenging and time-consuming but mostly enjoyable.”

Adding to this, Siddarth says the goal of the restoration was to be as historically accurate as possible. “We wanted to be a hundred percent authentic.” With heritage becoming a “buzzword”, it wasn’t uncommon to hear of ancient buildings being razed in Puducherry to make way for brand-new residences. He did not want Gratitude Heritage to follow suit.

“We wanted to keep the architectural motifs intact but restore the place using new materials and techniques,” he says, adding that the pictures and decor that you see around the place are borrowed from one of Francois’ ancestors.

Keeping history intact

If these pictures are giving you a deja vu, we’ll explain. The facade of Gratitude Heritage was featured in the critically acclaimed film Life of Pi (2012). You might remember it from there. 

Elaborating on this, Siddarth says, “The director and the production team of the film wanted to shoot in Puducherry and had reached out to us. The facade features in one of the opening scenes.” He adds that the photography team and cinematographer director stayed at Gratitude Heritage during the filming of the movie.

The homestay has seen its share of fame. In 2019, it featured in a BBC travel documentary series ‘The Real Marigold Hotel’.

But these accolades are merely feathers in its cap. The real success lies in its restoration.

The homestay features old wood that was collected from homes being demolished across Tamil Nadu. An interesting thing to note is that the home features ‘Madras terracing’ — a novel kind of terracing where the artisan employs his hands and feet to assemble the bricks. With modern techniques substituting this traditional craftsmanship, sourcing artisans was a challenge.

Elaborating, Siddarth says, “In Puducherry, we have the vernacular Tamil style of architecture, the Franco-Tamil style (that draws heavily from Chettiar style), and then those which are predominantly said to be French style because of the arches and pillars and certain other details. Gratitude Heritage falls in the third category.”

During the restoration process, care was taken to not upset anything of the old home. “No walls were broken and no trees were cut,” Siddarth shares. He goes on to narrate an anecdote of how a mango tree in the courtyard was hindering the construction.

Instead of chopping it off, they called in ‘tree doctors’ who pulled the tree out of the way until work was complete.

Featuring eight double rooms and one single room, Gratitude Heritage is a spacious paradise. However, be prepared for some “quirkiness” warns Siddarth. “Each room is a different size with no consistency at all. The vintage furniture was sourced over many years from homes that were being brought down. Every bed, table, and chair came in different shapes and sizes, so no two rooms are alike.”

That being said, whether it is the four-poster beds, the chequered duvets, the rocking chairs, the quaint lampshades — everything is a testament to how local craft blends with sustainability. The topic of sustainability transcends the rooms and makes its way into the practices that are followed at the homestay.

Single-use plastic is a strict no and solar panels are the hero. Even the staff right from the chefs to the housekeeping are from the locality. “We wanted to ensure that their travel to and from home is not contributing to the carbon footprint,” Siddarth adds.

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Although there are many moments of quiet and calm at Gratitude Heritage, there is never a dull one. Evenings are a blur of activity as the thrum of events, art workshops, and dance recitals fill the air. And one emotion that is certain to trump the rest is gratitude.

One of the virtues prided on by the ashram — gratitude — Siddarth says, is what brought his mother to Puducherry and led them to the life they have today. It is only right that we named our dream after it too, he smiles.

But even as we reach the end of this fascinating homestay, a question that continues to linger on my mind is about the iron safe and its contents.

Sudeep Sen’s poem does the suspense justice, saying, “Perhaps, it is best kept as a mystery, in a world where there is so little of it.” And, the same emotion is apt for Gratitude Heritage too, I think.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

What you need is a bunch of other like-minded women who make travel fun, simple, and safe — all while respecting your need for space.

We’ve put together a list of eight such women-only travel groups that go to great lengths to ensure your trips are just the adventure escapade you were looking for.

1. Bukit.travel 

When cousins Garima Pande and Akshat Sharma would meet, the conversation would almost always veer towards travel. When it comes to the subject of travel for women, the topic of safety inevitably crops up. The cousins were aware of this.

So, they decided to take their love for travel beyond the confines of the living room and start a venture that would make travel accessible for women, while making their safety prime. Today, ‘Bukit.travel’ — a Bengaluru-based travel startup — is empowering solo female travellers and promoting women-owned enterprises.

So far, they have hosted over 250 solo women’s travels from across the country. The company has over 500 local experts to assist the travellers during their stay. Explaining the model, Garima says, “We provide a comprehensive travel itinerary with access to local experts who are certified and trained. The local experts are essentially people who are born and raised in a specific place. They have stories to tell and things to share that no travel guide ever can.”

Places covered: The company promotes both solo and women’s group travels across India and abroad — such as Vietnam, Maldives, Bhutan, Bali, and parts of Europe, including Croatia, Spain, and Ireland.

Contact there here.

2. Jugni

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The name borrows from a female firefly which embodies the spirit of life!

Duo Nitesh Chauhan and Rohit Khattar wanted to bring this idea into their startup that encourages women to travel solo. What they want to ensure is that their travellers do not get hassled with technicalities around itineraries, but can focus instead on relaxing and making the most of their time alone.

Through their model, they want to ensure that women reclaim the agency to embark on adventurous voyages without worry. Every trip is helmed by certified outdoor leaders and is crafted with activities that are entirely up to the women to decide if they wish to be a part of.

Places covered: Leh Ladakh, Meghalaya, Arunachal, Turkey, Bhutan, Bali, Kazakhstan and more.

Contact them here.

3. Womaniya on Roadtrips 

“Solo travelling, especially for women, is still a taboo in Indian society,” Priti Vishwakarma recounted in a conversation with The Better India.

Diagnosed with epilepsy at a young age, Priti would often find it tough to convince her family to let her go on trips. They were worried about her safety. So, she decided to turn this very roadblock into an opportunity. In 2016, Priti started ‘Womaniya on Roadtrips’, which encourages women to hurtle to all the destinations that have been on their bucket list until now.

Recalling one of the most memorable trips she has led, she says it was the trek to Spiti Valley, where a 70-year-old woman was part of the group. “It was her first solo trip. But amidst the group of nine young girls, she had the time of her life. It was motivational to watch women feeling safe on these trips with me as their leader, knowing that I have epilepsy.”

Places covered: Trips across India, Ladakh, Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal, Vietnam, Andaman and Bali.

Contact them here.

4. F5Escapes

It is astounding and heartwarming to watch the collective enthusiasm of a group of women travellers who are undertaking their first solo trip. And every time Malini Gowrishankar, an engineer who started F5Escapes, watches this, she feels proud of the ecosystem she has created.

Being an ardent traveller herself, Malini has taken trips both with family and alone. So, at a young age, she realised the power of solo travel. She found freedom in being alone as she traversed through the country.

But, as conversations with other women would reveal, their attitudes towards solo travel were diametrically opposite. They found it unsafe. This was Malini’s cue to start a platform that would challenge this notion and give urban women a taste of off-beat experiences.

Places covered: Bhutan, Nagaland, Sri Lanka, Madurai, Kerala, Arunachal, Wayanad, Varanasi and Indore among other places.

Contact them here.

5. Wovoyage

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“Travel should be more than a means of getting from one place to another,” is what this all-women travel community believes. Having created a safe, inclusive space for female travellers to come together and bond over a love for adventure, Wovoyage is opening the doors to new cultural experiences for women who are scared to take that first leap.

Through a model that is centred around women-friendly accommodation, transportation, group departures, and guided tours, this platform makes sure you are spoilt for choice when it comes to picking a destination.

Places covered: Kasol, Vietnam, Ladakh, Goa, Indonesia, Japan and more.

Contact them here.

6. WeGoBond

Life is outside of your comfort zone. A solo trip changes you in ways you couldn’t have anticipated. Lunches by the side of rivulets, long drives through roads that bask in the sunshine, countrysides where the greenery gives way to mountains and the taste of crisp fresh air that fills your lungs.

This women-led company is attempting to give women this off-beat nature experience while ensuring that their trips are curated keeping comfort as the focus. The group sizes are limited to 12 people to foster camaraderie among the guests.

Travellers are encouraged to embrace the calm on these trips and come back refreshed!

Places covered: Turkey, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Persia, Tibet, New Zealand and cities across India.

Contact them here.

7. Women On Clouds

A dreamer and full-time optimist is how Shireen, the founder of this women-centric travel platform describes herself. Born and brought up in Iran, Shireen studied Economics in a college at Shimla where she was bitten by the travel bug. It was during this time and later that she began to believe in the incredible power of nature and the environment.

Intent on giving other women the experiences and adventures she had had, Shireen started Women On Clouds — a platform where she calls women to rediscover their souls. “It is the perfect place for women who wish to travel solo or with their mothers, sisters, girlfriends, or in the company of other women rather than travelling alone.”

Places covered: Sikkim, Kerala, Bhutan, Kashmir, Ladakh, Rajasthan, Amritsar, Bali among others.

Contact them here.

8. Wander Womaniya

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Describing himself as the “chief gallivanter” at Wander Womaniya, Anuj Jain says it was planning a trip for his sister that led him to come up with the idea of the platform. Today, the venture is creating endless possibilities for women to explore the world.

Anuj and his team believe in motivating women towards self-expression through travel, while also emphasising that travel does not need to be without luxury.

If you are someone who is daunted by the task of travelling alone, or sceptical of planning through a budget for a trip, the experts in their team are here to help while making sure you’re focusing on making friendships that last a lifetime!

Places covered: Ladakh, Bali, Andaman, Philippines, Tawang, Thailand, Turkey, Azerbaijan. 

Contact them here.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

Nestled in the beautiful hills of Manali, right beside the Beas River, is the homestay of your dreams. ‘Raison D’etre’, which means ‘the purpose of someone’s existence’ in French, is truly a labour of love by its founders and hosts, Shalini and Nitin Beri.

“Here, you can chase butterflies, bask in the sun, marvel at the night sky, and savour the simple flavours of life. We wanted to escape from the city and its hustle-bustle, and we found our home in this place,” says Shalini to The Better India.

In search of a simple life

Most of us struggle with the impending question of ‘what we are doing with life’. The fear of not following a plan slowly creeps into our system, making us question our decisions. Shalini and Nitin realised that this was not their calling after spending years working in the corporate world.

The biggest fear that Shalini and Nitin had about life was ending up stuck in a “corporate rat race”. To deal with the fear, what did the couple do? They decided to quit their careers and move to the mountains!

Raised in Kullu the couple met in college. The two fell in love and eventually decided to get married. “We were working in cities like Mumbai and Delhi at advertising agencies. While we loved our lives in the city, what we missed most dearly were the mountains,” Shalini says.

The urge to move back home became stronger and stronger with time for the couple. “I think that if you don’t do something while you are young, then there is a chance that you might never do it. While we did enjoy our time living in big cities, I always feared that I would never leave the city!” she says.

“I was living with this fear constantly, and in 2013, we decided to quit our jobs and move back to Kullu for good,” Nitin says.

The couple had an existing ancestral Home in Kullu which gave them the idea to start a homestay. “But it was not big enough for a project like that,” says Shalini. So, the couple started to look for properties around the place.

When the duo first came across the land where their home stands now, they were taken aback by its beauty — it looked straight out of a painting! “Since then we have built the property piece by piece, pouring our hearts into it,” she says.

The home features four bedrooms — each named after one of the four seasons of the year.  The ‘Spring’ and ‘Summer’ rooms are situated on the ground floor, whereas, the ‘Autumn’ and ‘Winter’ rooms are on the first floor.

Each room opens up to magnificent views of the Himalayas and Beas River.

What to expect at the Homestay?

“The rooms do not have TV,” says Shalini, “I don’t understand why anybody would want to sit in their room watching TV when you can sit outdoors in the orchard and enjoy the views. There are flowers, butterflies, and fruit trees all around.”

Guests can also take hikes up the hills or serene walks along the river and to nearby villages. 

“There’s also a huge riverside area with a tiny ‘beach’. We also have hammocks, creating a very relaxed atmosphere. Additionally, there are books available for reading. In our lounge area, we have board games like Monopoly and Clue,” she adds.

The place even has a natural spring on the property. “Back in the day when we were growing up, you could simply open a tap, stick your face under it, and drink water, right? Here, you can do exactly that! The taps are connected to the natural spring water and you can drink it,” she shares.

Apart from enjoying nature, guests can also indulge in the delicious meals that Shalini prepares.

“There are lots of edible weeds growing on the property. So, my favourite thing is to pick a whole bunch of what is growing in the garden. Locally, they grow urad dal (black gram) and make little dried badis (vegetable nuggets) out of it for winter, because nothing grows here in the cold weather. So, they dry whatever they grow in summer or make these badis and keep them. I love serving my guests these badis,” she says.

“We also make a lot of zucchini-based dishes because it grows here in abundance. We prepare it in various ways. There are also local dishes like siddu which is like a bao stuffed with chutney,” she adds.

Shalini also uses fiddlehead fern to make pickles along with other produce like persimmon achar, plum chutney, peach jam, and quince jam.

A homestay steeped in sustainability

Nitin is the one who handles all the ‘jugaads’ (an innovative way of problem-solving) as Shalini puts it.

Nitin informs that the homestay was made keeping in mind that it does not disturb the nature around. “We’ve implemented a lot of eco-friendly and sustainable practices right from the design of the place. We also wanted to minimise our energy requirements. To achieve this, we started from the architecture and planning phase, where we utilised natural ways of heating and maximised sunlight exposure during winter while minimising it in summer,” he says.

In terms of construction materials, most buildings in the hills are built with wood as it is a good insulating material. “Additionally, we’ve incorporated insulating blocks in the construction, which further reduce heating and air conditioning costs. These blocks are light enough to float on water and insulate the entire building. Furthermore, all windows are double-glazed with argon gas in between for additional insulation, and the roofs are insulated as well,” he adds.

For heating, the property utilises geothermal heat pumps, tapping into a spring on the property for ground source water. “This water, naturally warm in winter, is cycled through the geothermal heat pump to extract heat, which is then used to heat the building. Underfloor pipes, spanning almost a kilometre, distribute this heat throughout the building, providing an efficient heating solution,” Nitin explains.

Having faced several power cuts in the region, the couple decided to be more sustainable and go solar. “We run our operations entirely on solar power. We have a solar system in place that generates electricity, and our entire house runs on this. Even on days when there’s as little as 30% sunlight, the system works efficiently. Additionally, any excess energy generated during the day is stored in batteries, which we then use for power backup when needed,” he shares.

In the six years of operations, the couple has hosted countless number of happy guests so far. Among them is Mumbai-based Priyanka who stayed at the property.

“Located on the banks of the Beas River, Shalini and Nitin’s homestay exceeded all our expectations. Surrounded by beautiful fruit trees, depending on the season you visit, you can indulge in farm-fresh fruits every day!” she remarks.

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She goes on, “The food we experienced here was truly exceptional, offering some of the finest and freshest meals we’ve ever had — things we don’t find back home. Throughout our five-day stay, we were treated to a diverse range of cuisines, including Chinese, Italian, Thai, and Indian dishes, crafted with care and love by Nitin and Shalini using locally sourced ingredients.”

Describing their homestay as a dreamy getaway for city folks looking for respite, Nitin and Shalini share that day-to-day beautiful experiences keep them going. “We believe this place we have created is somewhere you can truly heal,” says Shalini.

“Currently, a mother and daughter pair are staying with us. The mother who is a pranic healer mostly engages in meditation and yoga, taking the silence in, while the daughter keeps running around chasing butterflies. The homestay is her playground, and the natural elements are her toys. It is amazing to see how two generations are enjoying the property in their own ways at the same time,” she adds with a smile.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat; All images credit: Raison D’etre)

As the summer heat begins to rise, it’s an ideal time to plan a tranquil getaway to the Western Ghats. For travellers who appreciate slow-paced exploration and authentic experiences, homestays offer the perfect accommodation option.

Throughout the region, you’ll find a plethora of homestays and farm stays, each offering stunning views and an opportunity to immerse yourself in the local way of life. The Better India embarked on a journey across the length and breadth of the Western Ghats to curate a list of the 8 best homestays for an unforgettable vacation.

1.  Shanthi Kunnj Homestay, Chikmagalur

Known for its biodiversity and stunning coffee estates, Chikmagalur might be the getaway of your dreams. Located just beside river Bhadra, Shanthi Kunnj Homestay is perfect if you want to enjoy coffee plantations, waterfalls and river banks. 

The stay offers Log houses, Superior Villas & Premier Rooms, which are a beautiful escape from the hustle and bustle and summer heat of the cities. Besides delicious meals, the place also offers plantation tours and nature walks. 

Cost: Rs 8,475 onwards

You can book your stay here. 

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2. Hema Koota Homestay, Sakleshpur

Nestled amidst the rolling hills and lush forests of Sakleshpur, Hema Koota Homestay is perfect if you are looking for a rustic experience. The property has five bedrooms with a spacious verandah and attached bathrooms which has been open to guests since 2015.

The property is located amid coffee, cardamom and pepper plantations on one side and a few homes on the other side, giving you the perfect essence of country life. Run by a farmer duo, Gowtham and Manu Gowtham, the guests also get to understand the process of coffee and cardamom plantation and farming. 

With no TV and a weak mobile network, time stands still in this place. 

Cost: Rs 2,500 and above
Book your stay here.

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3. Shakuntala Farmhouse, Goa

If you want to witness a silent and serene side of Goa, then this farmhouse is the answer. 

Located at the foothills of the Chorla Ghats in the Western Ghats, staying here comes with its advantages.

Within an hour’s drive, you have easy access to prominent attractions such as Dudhsagar Falls, Mollem National Park, Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary, Arvalem Falls and caves, Keri Foot Over Bridge, and Tambdi Surla, among others. The farm stay also offers delicious local cuisine after your dip in their pool. They also allow you to bring your furry friends along! 

Cost: Rs 3,200 and above

Book your stay here. 

4. Maachli, Parule

Located in a quaint village in Maharashtra called Parule, this stay is a perfect location for slow travellers. An eco-friendly farm stay, the place offers the luxury of staying close to nature. As per their official website, the name of the homestay is derived from the word ‘Maachli’, a term for the huts made by a farmer to protect the farm.

You can enjoy activities such as pottery making, plantation tours, and exploring the nearby grassland with the hosts at the homestay. 

Cost: Rs 8,000 and above.
Book your stay here. 

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5. Avabodha Homestay, Panchgani 

Sitting amid the serene hills of Panchgani and overlooking the majestic Krishna river, the homestay exudes tranquillity. Run by mother-daughter duo Alka and Prachi, the homestay is a perfect escape from city life. 

Serving delicious authentic meals, the place offers various activities such as gardening, pottery, star gazing, and bonfires. 

Cost for the entire villa: Rs 21,000 per night. 

Book your stay here. 

6. Dudhsagar Farmstay, Goa

The Dudhsagar Farmstay gets its name from the majestic natural wonder of Goa, the Dudhsagar Falls. Located at a short distance from the falls, the place is run by Ajit Malkarnekar and his wife, Doris, who left their lives in Germany and came to Ajit’s birthplace near Mollem National Park looking for a slow, self-sufficient life close to nature.

The place has its own natural pool and offers 5 huts to relax in. You can also explore the pepper and vegetable plantations surrounding it, the Dudhsagar Waterfalls, and the Usgalimol rock carvings.

Cost: Rs 4,500 and above. 

Book your stay here. 

7. Firefly by the River, Coorg

Stunning views of the Harangi River, paddy fields, a plethora of bamboo and coconut groves, and pepper plantations are some of the things that await you during this stunning stay. The riverside homestay is a 40-minute drive from Madikeri and offers a plethora of activities such as bird watching, golfing, trekking, plantation tours and cooking classes. 

An eco-friendly retreat, the place grows all the food it serves! 

Cost: Rs 7,000 and above.

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Book your stay here. 

8. Tooth Mountain Farmstay, Karjat

The Tooth Mountain Farmstay is a 20-acre boutique farmstay located in Karjat, Maharashtra. The place has a manmade lake where you can cool off or do kayaking. There is also a swimming pool, an organic food farm and an animal farm for you to experience. 

As per a Conde Nast article, “We do suggest stepping out as well – hop on a cycle for a tour around town, or trek to the nearby Sondai fort or Prabalgad from the property.” The property has five rooms and an outhouse to accommodate 11 guests.  

Cost: Rs 8,400 and above
Book your stay here. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

While the couple loved where they were and their jobs, the two yearned to go back home. This feeling followed them wherever they went. They soon co-founded Himalaica, a luxury resort.

“Living in Switzerland, we always felt like we were missing something. Home is where the heart is and our heart was in the mountains. The yearning to go back home only became stronger with time. We decided to plan our move back home and start Himalaica,” Varun said in a conversation with The Better India.

Nestled between forests and streams, at a small distance from the hustle and bustle of Nainital city, Himalaica is a perfect getaway to experience the Himalayas with delicious food.

Varun and Ite’s Homecoming

Dubbing themselves the ‘Himalayan boy and girl’, Varun and Ite, who spent their formative years in Nainital and Srinagar, share an immense love for nature and the wilderness. 

Their retreat became a pivotal point in bringing the two back home. “Making the move back after dedicating so many years of our careers abroad was a significant decision. However, it all began when we first laid eyes on the land where Himalaica stands today. We devote the majority of our time in India to collaborating with our chefs and caretakers, striving to provide the best service possible,” explains Ite .

“Living in Zurich made me acknowledge the abundant beauty back home, which often goes unnoticed and underutilised. People from mountainous regions frequently leave their hometowns in pursuit of a better life,” he reflects.

“This realisation troubled me deeply, prompting me to recognise the responsibility we bear to return and contribute to our community. Perhaps by generating more employment opportunities, we can deter the youth from migrating to urban centres,” he suggests.

Four years ago, the duo decided to look for a place that was perfect for their vision.

“While we worked in two very different fields like banking and consultancy, we have always wanted to serve people. So when we decided to go back home, we set up a place that showcases the beauty of the place and gives us a chance to show our hospitality,” says Varun.

In 2019, the couple started to look for places in Nainital for their dream resort.

“When we saw this place, it already had a wood structure, we were taken aback by its beauty. It has everything we hoped for. It was nestled between woods and two streams with nature all around us,” he says. 

The birth of Himalaica

The resort itself is in no way less captivating than the beauty around it. Made in a way that it blends into nature instead of standing out as a sore thumb, Varun explains their inspirations.

“The buildings are inspired by the various Chalets that we visited in Switzerland. We used stones from the Kolar River nearby to make the structure. The design is a mix of chalets and British villas that we have in Europe. The windows and the doors are all inspired by those designs while using the local materials,” he says.

The couple wanted to make it a ‘mini-castle’ hidden in the woods. “The key factor while designing the place was that we wanted to be as close to nature as possible. The place, despite being close to Nainital, feels like we are living in the old world,” he says.

The couple has already tried to incorporate the culture of the area into their homestay. “We have a lot of Kumaoni art hung in the place to give the guests a glimpse of the culture.”

Ite brought handlooms and pieces of art from Kashmir to make the place a hub of different cultures as well.

“This place was our stepping stone to return home and we wanted to make sure that the place feels like one to us. Including elements of both our cultures and the design of the place we called home for so long in Switzerland was quite important for us,” says Ite.

Discussing various activities that they provide, Ite says, “There are about three trekking routes that we encourage our guests to take. We also recommend exploring the area and exploring the Bhowali range. The guests can also engage in bird watching as the place is full of Himalayan birds visiting the estate.”

Over 150 species of birds are found in the area, she adds. “We also have lots of books for children to engage in reading, and a bonfire and barbeque for the guests.”

“Additionally, the place is perfect for stargazing. The skies on a clear night are full of beautiful stars that our guests can enjoy,” says Varun.

Another attraction of the place is its delicious food. “We wanted the guests to experience every cuisine they want when they visit Himalaica. So we hired chefs who can cook anything you want at your command,” says Varun.

“Say you want to eat something from Italian cuisine or French cuisine, you can ask the chefs to cook those dishes for you. We also offer classes if the guests want to learn to cook any particular dish,” he explains.

The duo has hosted countless guests at the property so far. The common review that the couple gets from their guests is how the property feels like home to them.

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“It is hard to describe in words how staying at Himalaica feels. This is not just a retreat but a home in many ways. The nature around the property and the warmth of the staff is magical. The gardens are stunning and the wildlife around the property really makes you humbled. The quiet around the property makes it very zen and meditative. The food was another highlight of my stay which made me relish every moment I stayed there,” shares Sowmya Reddy, a guest at the property this year.

Taking the thought of helping the locals, the couple says that they fund the education of the children of their local staff.

“We also have a compost unit for our wet waste and harvest rain. However, we also want to scale the sustainability area of the property. We are aiming to become a 100 percent self-sustaining and eco-friendly unit,” they say.

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All Pictures Credit: Ite and Varun)

“Home to several royal palaces, waterfalls, and rich cultural heritage, it is one of the hidden gems of Gujarat,” resident Ghanshyam Barot tells The Better India.

To tap into the rising tourism opportunities in the region, Ghanshyam opened ‘Rover Stay’ — a budget-friendly hostel with a rooftop kitchen in the royal town. “But unfortunately, most of the tourists would only visit the Statue of Unity and not come to Rajpipla, even though the town is roughly 20 minutes drive from the place,” adds the 38-year-old.

Ghanshyam tried different methods to increase the number of guests visiting his hostel — from creating an Instagram page to regularly posting content to draw attention. “But nothing worked,” he says.

Nearly eight months back, he came in contact with Delhi-based startup ‘Volunteer Yatra’, which helped him expand his business.

“Their team helped us record good quality content using drones and captivating videos highlighting local culture and food. In addition, they decorated the property using murals on walls and creative maps,” says Ghanshyam.

This boosted his followers from 400 to over 1,000, which in turn increased the number of visitors visiting his hostel; thereby increasing his income by 20 percent. “People have started finding us on social media. Now, we welcome 60 to 70 guests in a month, which was earlier 20 to 30,” he says.

Like other rural residents, Ghanshyam could have moved to the city for better job opportunities, but he wanted to stay in the village. And thanks to Volunteer Yatra, he was able to run a thriving business while being rooted in his village.

The Better India got in touch with Aakash Maan, the co-founder of Volunteer Yatra, to know how he is tapping into volunteer tourism to help small businesses flourish and prevent rural migration.

Using travel as a tool

Aakash, based in Delhi, possesses expertise in marketing, filmmaking, and photography. His passion for entrepreneurship ignited during his college years, leading him to venture into business. In 2018, he made the bold decision to drop out of engineering college and establish his own production company.

“Once, while working on a film on climate change, I realised the potential harm that forces rural communities to migrate to cities for work leaving their homes behind. After the film was released, I decided to focus on action-oriented work,” he tells The Better India.

Amidst the COVID-19 pandemic, Aakash received a call from a friend in Himachal that helped him realise his true calling.

“My friend used to run a homestay but this business was adversely affected amid the lockdown. He was in extreme losses and didn’t even have money to arrange two square meals for his family. He asked for my help in marketing solutions,” recalls Aakash.

“It took us two months to draw tourists to his homestay. In three months, he started earning up to Rs 50,000 a month. He was so happy that he offered me to visit him anytime and stay as long as I wanted,” he adds.

“This gave me the idea to collaborate with similar small businesses and provide them with the support of skilled volunteers, who in turn will get opportunities to explore offbeat places for free,” says Aakash.

After nearly six months of research, Aakash along with his brother Karunesh Maan and Rakshit Kumar launched Volunteer Yatra in 2021.

A win-win for volunteers and communities

Explaining how the platform works, Aakash says, “These small businesses are dependent on travel agents to attract tourists. As they cannot afford skilled marketing experts and content creators to promote their works, we shortlisted volunteers to address this gap.”

After developing the right marketing strategies, Aakash assigns volunteers from diverse backgrounds to visit small business owners. “During their brief on-site travel, they assist them in promoting their work through content creation, graphic designing, optimising social media, creating murals on walls, connecting with right partners, and much more,” he adds.

“Most of these volunteers are freelancers, on sabbatical, or those working from home. This also enables them to embark on meaningful journeys while they save on accommodation and food expenses and contribute to community development,” says Aakash.

So far, Aakash and his team have established an army of 2,000 active volunteers who collaborate with hosts for a period of six months to one year. So far, these volunteers have assisted 170 hosts — mostly hostels, homestays, and self-help groups — across the country in states like Himachal Pradesh, Kerala, Jammu and Kashmir, Goa, and Sikkim.

One of their volunteers, Prem Suraj Tenkar moved to Rajpipla to assist Ghanshyam in content creation and optimise social media. It has been more than 40 days since he arrived in the town.

Sharing his experience, he tells The Better India, “When I came to Rover Stay hostel, I was their only guest for the next 15 days. Using my cinematic and storytelling skills, I recorded unique content about the region to attract tourists to Ghanshyam’s hostel. We also decorated domes using wall murals. All of my reels have crossed more than 40,000 views on Instagram. We are now working on a YouTube series to further attract tourists.”

While the business observed growth after 25 days, for Prem, this experience has been extremely enriching personally. “After working in the corporate sector for seven years in Bengaluru, I quit my job to travel. As a solo traveller, budget is always a constraint. But volunteering not only helped me use my skills for community development but also to pursue my passion. It was extremely rewarding to explore Rajpipla on my bike and record its scenic beauty on my GoPro and drone. I have explored the place more than I was expecting,” he adds.

To sustain the for-profit business, Aakash charges an annual fee of Rs 2,000 from volunteers. While he charges Rs 5,000 per month from revenue-generating businesses, he claims to take no fee from non-profits and low-income businesses such as Ghanshyam’s.

“As an entrepreneur, often I am the last person to draw a salary or sometimes I don’t get paid for months. It is tough. But our goal is to grow stronger and keep going with every impactful project that we do,” he shares.

Talking about making a positive difference through volunteer tourism, Aakash says, “Volunteer Yatra is much more than a volunteering platform. We, as a team, have solved the organisational problems of our hosts in the most affordable way. One of our hosts could pay for his son’s tuition fee as his business took off after connecting with us,”

“We have experienced so many stories already, with many more to come,” remarks Aakash.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat; All photos: Volunteer Yatra)

Filled with ancient artefacts and antiques from Kanyakumari, Tirunelveli, Madurai, and Karaikudi, the home stands as a testament to the rich cultures of the area. The couple decided to share their treasure of a home with others by converting it into a homestay.

“When you visit the homestay, you can expect serenity, culture, and heritage. The nature surrounding us will fill you with a sense of peace, and our authentic meals will nourish your soul,” says Rajchandar in a conversation with The Better India.

The homestay is not just a marvel of culture but also a great example of sustainability. From composting their waste to implementing measures to recharge groundwater, the mud homestay is raising the bar for nature-friendly travel.

Inspiration from grandmother’s home

Born and raised in Kanyakumari, Rajchandar is a geo-data scientist who has spent the majority of his life around environmentalists.

“Spending so much time around them, I wanted to make my home as aligned with nature as possible. I had always been concerned about the degradation of our environment and didn’t want to contribute to it,” he shares.

Rajchandar fondly recalls his grandmother’s home, surrounded by greenery.

“Visits to her home were my favourite part. At that time, I was unaware of how her deeply traditional and nature-friendly home would one day become an inspiration for my dream home too,” he says.

“Her home was very simple with minimal use of cement and very traditional in design,” he says. 

While living in the city, he longed for a more secluded place surrounded by nature.

“When I first saw the village and the piece of land which now holds my home, it was like love at first sight. I could envision the future of the place and hence chose to buy the land,” he says.

Rajchandar continues, “There is a very interesting story that goes around about the hills surrounding the area. It is said that when Lord Hanuman lifted the Dronagiri Parvat to take it to Lord Lakshman, a piece of it broke off and fell here. Hence, these hills have a lot of medicinal plants growing around.”

The couple did not want to disturb the biodiversity of the area and decided to build a home that blends into nature instead.

In 2021, they started to work on their dream home and opened their doors to the guests in 2022. “Since we decided to share our space with guests, we have hosted more than 200 guests so far,” he informs. 

Made with some mud and lots of love!

The homestay is a mix of different architectures, combining a blend of Tamil, Venad, and Chettinad styles that showcase the rich cultural heritage of Tamil Nadu.

“I am personally a collector and love collecting artefacts from the area. I had been collecting a lot of art pieces and decided to display them in the home. Some of these pieces are more than 100 years old,” he says.

One thing that Rajchandar was clear about from the beginning is that he wanted to use natural materials to build the home.

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“We did not just want to have sustainable practices. We wanted to make the very roots of our home eco-friendly. We used eco-bricks made of limestone and red clay for the walls,” he says.

Listing all the natural materials that he used, Rajchandar says, “Besides eco-bricks, we also used Athangudi Tiles. These tiles are made up of sand found near Athangudi River which is much more sustainable than normal tiles.”

For the ceiling, the scientist used a technique called filler slab technique to minimise the use of concrete. According to Studio DCode, “Filler slab is an alternate slab construction technology where part of concrete in the bottom of the slab is replaced by filler material.” The roofs also have clay tiles on the roofs too.

“We used red soil, lime, cow dung, rice dusk, egg and jaggery to make a paste for construction,” he shares.

Additionally, the homestay features rainwater harvesting, and they are in the process of installing solar panels to harness the sun.

“We also make compost out of our kitchen waste, which is then used in our garden. We grow all our plants and food organically so our guests can enjoy fresh food daily.”

The place boasts 5 bedrooms, 3 balconies, and 3 living spaces for guests to enjoy. “While the homestay is shared by us with the guests, we also prioritise their privacy.”

Rajchandar highlights, “A unique feature of the property is its natural coolness regardless of the weather outside. With 50 upcycled windows that are over 100 years old, plenty of air circulates inside. Additionally, since the house is made of mud and clay, it remains naturally cool throughout the year.”

One common feedback he receives from guests is how his home feels like their own.

One of the customers, Gavin, who stayed at the property, says, “The place really feels like home. Living at their place with all the exquisite architecture depicting our Tamil culture was an experience of a lifetime. It is huge in size with several areas to relax but the uniqueness was in the small details like the way they treated us. The food, their accommodating behaviour made our stay very enjoyable.”

Discussing future plans, Rajchandar says, “We really want to expand the property as many people want to stay, but we are often fully booked. We also aim to incorporate more sustainable measures like solar energy into the current homestay.”

You can book your stay at this Rajchandar’s homestay by reaching them at 9360946642 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All Pictures Credit: Rajchandar)

Nestled amidst the serene hills of Panchgani and overlooking the majestic Krishna river, the homestay exudes tranquillity. However, what truly distinguishes it is the deeply ingrained commitment to sustainability and reverence for nature exhibited by both the homestay and its hosts.

“When I bought this land, traditionally, there is a puja that is supposed to be done before starting the construction. However, we decided to honour nature instead and vowed to maintain it just as it is,” Alka tells The Better India.

Co-founded by Alka and her daughter Prachi Chaphekar, the branding at the property is managed by Prachi, while Alka oversees operations and other duties. “She is the body and soul of Avabodha while I am the heart,” says Prachi.

The dream of a lifetime

Before establishing the homestay, Alka devoted decades of her life to the social sector. She saved up during this time to transform her passion for helping others find themselves into a reality. “I always nurtured a dream of opening my own space where people could come, relax, and find peace,” she shares.

An ardent traveller, Alka found the perfect companion in her daughter, Prachi. “While I loved travelling, my husband held the opposite view. So, most of the time, it was just Prachi and me,” she reminisces.

Together, the mother-daughter duo explored the world extensively. “One thing I always made sure of while travelling was to stay in homestays. I’m the kind of person who loves to immerse myself in the local culture, and staying in homestays is one of the best ways to truly understand a place,” Alka explains.

In 2010, she finally decided to start working on building her homestay ‘Avabodha’ — the Sanskrit word Avabodha means ‘awakening’. “I travelled across the country from Uttarakhand to Himachal to find the perfect piece of land, while it was right here in Panchgani all along!” she says.

Prachi went to a boarding school in Panchgani and had always been in love with the hill station. So when Alka was looking at places, she looked for land in Panchgani too. “Whenever I went to visit her, we would explore the place. I would even stay back and explore the hill station alone. This made me fall in love with the property even more with every visit,” says Alka.

“When I first saw the land and the view it offered, I was taken aback. I have never seen a place this beautiful. There was something about the place that kept luring me back. It was like nature had chosen me to show it to the world while preserving its sanctity,” she adds.

“So I purchased the piece of land and began my journey towards my dream home,” she says.

It took nearly five years for Alka to complete the property, and they opened their doors to guests in 2019. Since then, the mother-daughter duo have hosted numerous artist retreats and more than 1,000 guests in their homestay.

The sweetness of doing nothing

Located in a secluded region in Panchgani, a common question that Alka and Prachi are often asked is ‘Are there any activities to do near the villa?’ “I tell my guests that there are no activities. Many of them are caught off guard by this response, but I do this in an effort to make them understand the importance of doing nothing,” says Alka.

While the property offers numerous engaging activities, such as gardening, pottery, star gazing, and bonfires, the duo encourages their guests to do nothing instead.

“There is a sweetness in doing nothing, which most people don’t know about. We encourage our guests to sit on the balcony or in common areas, sip a glass of wine, and just enjoy the view. Listen to the music of nature and indulge in the food made for them,” she says.

Besides this, Avabodha also hosts various yoga and artist retreats where artists are welcome to do soul-searching at the property. “I am an artist myself, and the villa is full of paintings given to us by our guests from the artist retreats. Before the pandemic, we did not have Wi-Fi at the property. We left a note for our guests to talk to each other and have a true off-the-grid experience without any internet. We don’t have a television even today,” informs Prachi.

When you stay at Avabodha, what you wake up to are the misty hills, the chirping of insects, and bird songs. “We have a lot of peacocks and birds coming into our garden, which is why we do not allow pets at the property currently,” she adds.

The property has three bedrooms — a hall and a kitchen along with a bonfire area, a hammock area, and a garden. The cost of staying varies based on factors like weekends, tourist seasons, and holidays. On average, the entire villa costs Rs 21,000 per night, shares Alka, and the couples receive a 50 percent discount on their stay.

One of the customers, R M Rao, who stayed at the property, says, “It was like I was at His (God’s) abode. For the first time in my life, I heard silence — loud and clear. The sky, the home, everything was a great experience. To say that the food was good and the service by Kalpana and Anil (caretakers) was amazing would be an understatement.”

The homestay serves only vegetarian food cooked by their caretaker, Kalpana. “She is amazing, and our guests never stop praising her,” states Prachi.

Talking about how the food is so tasty and organically grown, Balaraj Khakar, who stayed at the villa on his birthday, says, “I am a hardcore non-vegetarian and was worried about the food at the stay as it is a fully vegetarian place. But I am not exaggerating when I say that vegetarian food has never tasted better! Besides the food, I loved how much nature was around me when I was staying at the property. It was a truly amazing experience.”

When asked about how they are keeping their property eco-friendly, Alka delves into the details of how the property was built with a sustainable philosophy from the outset.

“When I was starting the construction of the property I had the greatest challenge — finding an eco-friendly architect who fits into my budget. After searching a lot, I found one in Satara,” she shares. “I wanted to use mud for the construction of my home. However, the place did not have enough clay in the soil to hold it together. So we had to switch to laterite stone.”

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“We have no columns in the structure and steel is used to the minimum quantity. Every bone in our home is in alignment with nature. We also compost all of our wet waste and use it as manure for our organic garden. We also have solar heaters, and the house is designed for rainwater harvesting, which we are planning to start soon,” she adds.

‘Had to become a part of the community’

Looking back at her beautiful home and all the memories the duo has collected over the past few years, Alka reflects that it wasn’t all rainbows and sunshine. When she decided to start looking for land and her dream was closer to reality, most people around her showed concern.

“First of all, I was about to throw in all my life savings, and that was a big risk. The thought that a woman might be able to do this all on her own was unimaginable to many. Many of my relatives questioned my decision, but I had a goal in mind and was unshakable,” she says.

When Alka was buying the property, she faced a lot of resistance within the community. “I was a stranger trying to buy their land and on top of that, a woman. When I would be working with the labourers on the site, men from the village would come and declare that ‘you cannot do this’.”

“The property is quite isolated, and sometimes I would be all alone with some men working on the property. This really was a matter of concern for my family,” she recalls.

However, none of these issues deterred her from building her dream house. “It was around this time that I met Kalpana who is now our caretaker and support system at Avabodha. She became my way of making my place in the community,” she says.

Slowly, the community started to accept her and the homestay. “Now, they go beyond their means to help me run the place and keep it safe,” she informs.

“I would say go for it ladies, nothing can stop you if you have the will to do it,” she says.

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On working with her mother, Prachi muses, “It is very rare when two family members come together to run a business. Between my mother and I, there is a huge generational gap but we have different views and ideas. However, what bonds us together is the willingness to learn from each other. It has been a truly amazing experience,” she says.

If you wish to experience ‘nothingness’ at Avabodha Homestay, you can book the place here.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

Homestays offer a unique and personalised experience, often curated by passionate entrepreneurs. It not only allows you to have a glimpse of how people live in a given place but also to truly experience it for a few days. While opening a homestay might be easier if you already live in a tourist spot, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Delving into the realm of running a successful homestay, The Better India explores insights from remarkable entrepreneurs who have mastered the art.

1. Believe in Yourself

Running a business when you are a woman, especially from a small town comes with its own set of problems, muses Heena Mahant who runs the Afsana Homestay in Manali. When she first came up with the idea of building a homestay, she not only got opposition from outsiders but from within her family too.

“No one has ever been in business in my family… I still remember my dad’s scepticism. There was always a pressure to get married and settle down when I was working in Chandigarh. But upon returning home, it intensified even more. I don’t blame them; I’m nearing 32, an age when society expects you to get married and ‘settle down’, not start a passion project,” she says.

But it was Heena’s passion project to build a mud homestay. Being confident and passionate towards what you are doing is the key to success, according to Heena. “When my dad saw my passion and the vision I had, he was supportive,” she shares.

2. Be a Part of The Community

For the mother-daughter duo, Prachi Chapekar and Alka Shesha, wanting to build a home and homestay in Panchgani was not easy as they hailed from Mumbai.

Their most important advice? Become a part of the community. “You are an outsider going into their land, trying to buy what’s theirs. You have to try to become a part of their community.”

The duo presently runs Avabodha Homestay in Panchgani and has hired multiple people from the area. “This is one of the ways I showed the community that I was there to stay and become a part of it,” she shares. 

3. Make The ‘Home’ In Homestay

When a tourist chooses a homestay, it is to feel a sense of home in the homestay. Pushpa, a 65-year-old woman who runs the place called ‘The Mudhouse Marayoor’ with her brother makes sure to do so.

A family-run homestay, the guests at The Mudhouse end up staying longer than they planned. One of the ways Pushpa makes her guests stay special is by bringing them the most homely food.

“We grow most of our produce on the land,” shares Roopa, adding, “Some of the guests’ favourites are the appam, stew, puttu, kadala, dosa, sambar, idiyappam and chicken curry. And no one is allowed to go back to the city without Praveen’s (head chef) special dal tadka and shahi tukda.

4. Hire The Right People

Hiring the right people to help you successfully run the homestay is another important lesson that most of these owners share. “When I started with my homestay, Ludhramani Bhaiya, who is now our cook, became my backbone. He helped me every step of the way,” says Heena. 

“Currently, he helps me to take care of the place and he also is our cook. He makes delicious authentic Himachali food at our homestay which leaves all our guests happy and satisfied,” she adds.

5.  Always Be Eager To Learn

While 89-year-old Laxmi Ammal studied only till Class 3, and 71-year-old Kasthuri Sivaraman completed Class 7 in a Tamil-medium school, running a homestay was something these women would have never imagined as young women.

Scared and low on confidence, when Kasthuri’s son came to her with the idea, she was not eager to go along with it. But with a zeal to learn and a lot of support from the family, the duo broke away from their fears.

For them, running a homestay is a continuous learning process. When the COVID-19 pandemic hit and the duo could not get many guests, they used the internet to attract more people. 

“Due to the lockdown, we did not get any guests for nearly six months. Once, a bunch of YouTubers visited and gave us positive reviews online. That helped us get popular quickly,” says Kasthuri. 

6. Inspiring responsible tourism

As far as travelling responsibly is concerned, homestay owners Anuradha and Kartik Budhraja who run Saroga Woods say that it is their responsibility to practise responsible tourism.

Running a homestay with sustainability at its core, Anuradha opines, “There are many ways one can live in harmony with nature, it is all about going the extra mile. Especially with nature, we need to be more careful with the nature around us,” opines Anuradha. 

The couple do go out of their way and have prepared written material with contacts, and information on setting up rainwater harvesting and solar energy at a homestay. “Whenever someone shows interest, we readily explain the process and also share our resources with them,” says Anuradha.

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

However, the idea of packing your life that you built in a box and starting to travel is an exhausting task. Questions such as — will I have to quit my job, how will my family react, and most importantly, where to begin? If you are contemplating the same, then this is a sign.

These avid travel lovers have been living your dream. They are living life on the go without quitting their jobs. The Better India collected a few tips and lessons they learned from their travels to set you off on your journey.

1. Take the leap of faith

Leaving a stable home can be a challenging decision to take. But having faith in yourself is one of the first steps to setting up a caravan.

As a kid, Nischay always dreamt of owning his caravan but never had the courage to do so as an adult. His mother, who always motivated him to follow his dream, left him wanting to achieve this, after her death.

Nischay, a professional photographer, decided to follow his passion and built ‘Barty The Van’ in memory of his mother. He has travelled to states such as Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan.

2. Choosing the right profession

For the families of Sim, Kartik and their dog, Everest, the idea of living in a van was nothing short of bizarre. “Living in a van gives them an illusion of us being homeless or not accomplished. So we had to educate them a lot on how many couples are out there, living a fulfilling life by exploring the world,” says Kartik.

Besides their safety, their parents were also worried about how they would work. The duo started to look for more flexible roles. “We switched our career away from management roles to more technical ones. From 2018 onwards, we were both working full-time remote jobs in our respective fields,” says Kartik, who is an IT consultant. Sim, meanwhile, works in digital marketing.

What was left for them now was to travel the world. The couple, along with Everest, have travelled to more than 18 countries so far.

3. Choose only the essentials

When moving from a home to a van, there are a lot of things that need to be left behind like clothes, furniture and utensils.

Sim and Kartik suggest starting small when it comes to clothing. Then the couple moved on to the bigger things, calling in their friends to see what furniture, artwork, and plants they could give away.

Finally, whatever is left can be sold online. They then packed their clothes, kitchen items, and other essentials for the road.

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4. ‘Jobs fill our pockets, Adventure fills our soul’

Travel junkies Deepak and Ruchi Pandey have been travel buddies since they were in college. While the life of the couple changed when they had kids, the travel lover in them never died.

To cut their expenses on travel, the couple decided to make a mini home on wheels. They bought a Force Traveller 3350 and converted it into a caravan of their dreams.

How do they find time between their jobs? Deepak has a transferable job, which means moving around the country every two years. He makes sure to use his leaves judiciously and embarks on a trip every quarter. So far, the couple has taken four trips in their van — Leh and Ladakh, Rajasthan, Uttarakhand, and Gujarat.

Edited by Padmashree Pande.

In Havelock, Andaman, nature reveals itself in all its glory and is certain to leave you breathless, as it did for Samit Sawhny (52) when he first set foot on the island’s coast. “In 2001, I took a few years’s break from work to travel the world. When I reached Havelock, it took my breath away, and I never wanted to leave again,” he tells The Better India.

Roaming the shores of the island, he realised his desire to contribute to its allure. The result? ‘Barefoot at Havelock.’ True to its name, the resort offers a chance for visitors to fully immerse themselves in the island’s natural beauty.

From eco-friendly cottages nestled amidst lush tropical foliage to luxurious beachfront villas boasting panoramic views of the azure sea, the resort caters to a variety of tastes and preferences.

The tipping point

Recalling his life before he founded Barefoot, Samit reflects on his initial career aspirations. “I wanted to pursue a path in finance and meticulously selected prestigious colleges to lead me there.”

Originally from Chennai, he relocated to London upon completing his graduation and commenced employment at a renowned firm. “After five years of working, I realised that corporate finance didn’t resonate with me. It lacked the sense of fulfilment I sought. Despite the arduous journey to secure such a position — navigating academic challenges, seeking out the right institutions, and cultivating the necessary connections, the work became somewhat mundane. While the field suits many, I yearned for something more tangible,” he reflects.

Samit then decided to return to India. “Upon my return, I found myself at a crossroads with no clear direction. It felt like starting anew. I opted to take some time off and embark on a journey,” he shares.

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During his seven-month expedition, he serendipitously found himself in Havelock, captivated by its breathtaking beauty. “What struck me was the sheer lack of tourism in this stunning locale. It felt like a hidden paradise, secluded from the rest of the world. Recognising its potential, especially for nature lovers seeking a tranquil escape, I was inspired to start an eco-friendly venture on the island, without disturbing its natural beauty,” he says.

The property blends into nature

While the island’s isolation from the rest of the world was its appeal, Sumit realised this USP also came with its own set of problems.

“The major issue that I could see was that since I was the first one to start something like this on the island, there was very little connectivity. There were no regular ferries, and the available ones were painfully slow,” he explains.

The infrastructure of the place was very poor, and before Samit could begin work on his resort, he had to address the challenge of making it accessible to the world. “But there was an important lesson learned from this experience. Havelock was Havelock for this reason — fewer crowds and more nature. The place is not like the Maldives or any other tourist destination. People come here for a truly natural experience,” he emphasises.

Samit concluded that opening a resort even deeper into the island would not be wise due to the connectivity issue. Therefore, he decided to build the property alongside the beach.

“When you come to the island, what you’ll notice is that it’s a combination of thick woods and beaches. So I decided to create a resort that blends into the natural surroundings and does not disturb the wildlife,” he adds.

Samit got a plot of land beside the beach and decided to build a forest around it. “The lands on the island were only allocated to people who cultivated bananas, rice, and coconut, or to parks, sanctuaries, and reserves,” he says.

So Samit started a banana plantation and built his resort in a way that merges with the nature in it. “The resort is not a standalone in essence. We wanted to bring the island on the map, which is why I started a travel company to help plan itineraries around the island. I also started Barefoot Scuba which is a scuba diving centre,” he explains.

Sustainable, nature-friendly, and a hidden gem

Constantly listed among the top eco-friendly resorts in the country, Samit says he incorporated a lot of sustainable elements during the construction. “There are a few things that we did, for instance, we used natural materials like mud, wood, and thatch in the construction of the building. All our rooms and common areas are made in a way that they look like a part of nature,” he says.

“We also have natural pathways with no concrete on them,” he says adding that the resort uses very low lighting as they have four different varieties of owls that stay on the property. “The moment you turn bright lights on, they fly away. We don’t want to disturb the birds, so we give flashlights to the guests and ask them to use the light only when needed.”

The resort also has a waste management system in place. “Kitchen wastewater flows through grease traps, and sewage is directed into septic tanks before being taken through our sewage treatment plant. Wastewater flows into soak pits,” he shares.

“A natural purification process then takes over, ensuring the groundwater is not polluted and the water table is undisturbed. We also do not take a drop of water from the Government pipeline. We harvest rainwater and the location we selected has a natural spring,” he informs.

Additionally, the resort has in-house Reverse Osmosis (RO) plants that supply water for drinking and kitchen use. “We urge guests to refill their bottles with this water and avoid buying single-use plastic bottled water. The reject from the RO plant is used in the garden and has been tested to be fit for this purpose,” he informs.

The resort has a host of activities that their guests can enjoy — including tree walks, bird trails, Kalapathar beach trek, Elephant beach trek, scuba diving, snorkelling, kayaking, and standup paddling.

As for the number of guests, the resort, the dive centre, and the travel company have collectively hosted over two to three lakh people since it opened its doors, says Samit. “We welcome about 10,000 tourists a year.”

Ajay who visited the property in 2024 calls it “a hidden slice of heaven”. He says, “From the moment you arrive, the Barefoot crew greets you with the warmest of welcomes. They’re all about fostering a sense of kinship, and let me assure you, they succeed admirably.”

“The rooms are a fusion of luxury with a hint of Robinson Crusoe charm. However, what truly distinguishes Barefoot is its commitment to eco-friendliness. They prioritise sustainability without compromising on the finer things. From harnessing solar power to implementing waste reduction measures, it’s as if they’re exchanging high-fives with Mother Nature while you indulge in your cocktail.”

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As for the future, Samit is planning to expand the resort. “We are in the process of getting clearances of land from the authorities. So expanding the place without disturbing the nature around it is what’s on my plate next!” he says.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat; All Photos Credit: Samit Sawhny)

Since its inception in 2013, this homestay, under the stewardship of naturalist Imran Khan, has captivated adventurers and nature enthusiasts alike. The resolute piece of paradise draws wanderers from across the world who are intrigued by how tourism and wildlife can go hand-in-hand in a world where it is a rarity.

“Don’t come here if you are looking for a picnic,” Imran cautions at the outset. “There are no bars, swimming pools, and DJ music. Instead, you are looking at days stretched out in front of you filled with safaris, bird watching, leopard spotting, and, of course, tiger trails.”

As the 58-year-old conservationist preps for his safari tour — which commences at 6.30 am and will go on till 10.30 am — his pride in his creations on the land is evident. Nostalgia is rife.

It was not more than five decades ago when Imran stood on this same precipice with his grandfather for company. As the latter hunted wild boars and deer, Imran recalls his innocent prayers for his grandfather to miss the shot. “I used to hope for the animal’s life to be spared,” he recalls.

The reserve was a frequent haunt for the family who lived in Rampur, 75 km away. Summer vacations in nature meant Imran’s best friends were the tigers, chital, sambhar deer, leopards, and jackals spotted here. Each had a name, and Imran was fond of every one of them.

Today, Imran’s love for the wild has only deepened, and The Ranger’s Lodge is an embodiment of it.

Championing wildlife conservation

As one wanders through Imran’s perfectly manicured garden, the bloom of colours is a beautiful eruption against the muted backdrop of the reserve. “I grow my own produce,” he declares proudly, as his wife Kahkashan lists the dishes these find their way into:

“Lamb stew, aloo mattar lamb kheema (a version of lamb curry made with peas and potatoes), bhatt ki chudkani (a soybean gravy), dubke (a Kumaoni dish made with pulses and lentils), rajma chawal, and mooli palak bhujia (a snack made with radish and spinach),” she goes on. 

Scenery and ambience marry together in a fascinating blend at the lodge. The colours are a welcome interruption to the saturated blues and greens of the landscape against which they rest. Their hues are almost symbolic of Imran’s love for nature, a passion that he harboured for three decades when he first set foot on the land.

A graduation degree in chemistry was followed by training at the WII (Wildlife Institute of India) in Dehradun — the same place where IFS officers are trained — where Imran partook in numerous research projects in the domain of tiger conservation, grassland conservation, and maintaining wildlife databases.

In 1994, armed with knowledge, Imran was intent on creating a model for wildlife tourism, a first of its kind in India.

Elaborating on his ideology, Imran says, “In my opinion, the only way to save the tiger was to link it with economic gain. People needed to understand the value of a biodiverse forest, the urgency to save tigers, and why their natural habitat was so crucial.”

Wildlife tourism was the solution that would tie these loose ends together. While setting up The Ranger’s Lodge, Imran brought to the table his expertise in wildlife and conservation, areas he had gained in-depth knowledge in owing to his term of service as a member of the State Wildlife Advisory Board of Uttarakhand, Assam, and Arunachal Pradesh, along with serving many Government committees on environment conservation and wildlife.

“I started the concept of the full-day safari,” he smiles. “The idea was always to curate something different from the conventional holiday experience.”

But that being said, the mushrooming of numerous hotels and resorts on the fringes of the tiger reserve has hampered the vision Imran had for the sanctuary.

As he explains, “Today, the capacity of resorts in Corbett is around 15,000 people. But, the carrying capacity of the park is 2,000 people a day. What are the remaining 13,000 people doing? Well, that’s where the loud music, partying, etc comes from. While this is great for the economy of the country, it isn’t my idea of wildlife tourism.”

Imran emphasises that tiger conservation isn’t a new concept but something rooted in our culture. “The Mahabharata too asks us not to cut forests that have tigers in them. It asks us not to banish tigers from the forest or else the forest will perish. Eventually, it says humanity will perish if tigers and forests cease to exist.”

A one-stop storehouse of knowledge

Travellers looking for some respite from the buzz of city life hurtle to the calm of the lodge where Imran treats them to anecdotes.

Sharing one of these, he says, “I remember one time when I was taking my guests — four Britishers — on a safari into the reserve. When we stopped, we spotted a monkey atop a tree that was continuously giving an alarm call while looking towards our left. But we couldn’t spot anything.”

He goes on, “I was sure the monkey had seen something because it wouldn’t sound an alarm otherwise. In the next few seconds, things were a blur. A tigress jumped across the bonnet of the jeep as we realised the monkey had spotted her cubs which were hidden to the left. That was a memory.”

Imran has many such stories to share. As Palash Bhattacharya, who stayed at the lodge for three days recounts, his favourite part of the trip was “learning about the forest from a true naturalist”. “We made unforgettable moments,” he shares adding that it was an enriching experience to watch the tigers, pythons, elephants and more wildlife in their habitats.

Imran has trained over a thousand youth from Ramnagar and the surrounding villages in nature interpretation, tiger trekking, and bird watching. “The drivers and the guides are the true representatives of the forest department. So it is only fitting that when they take outsiders into the forest, they should know how to behave, and how to inculcate an interest towards conservation in these guests,” he says, adding that he trains them in these facets.

He also encourages these youth to shed light on vegetation, the importance of sal forests, the importance of termites in sal forests, the life-cycle of honeybees and butterflies, and how they are all related to humanity in the long run.

Did you know there are nine ways of spotting a tiger in the forest? I did not.

“Well, there are,” says Imran adding that this is included in the training. “In addition to this, I also train them in tracking a tiger down, the message they must carry about the forest, and saving the tiger.”

It is on these forest trips that people can truly experience the magic of nature, and Imran’s lodge too provides you with that.

Wake up to the chirp of birds at this immaculate homestay priced at Rs 7000 a night and made with local stone and wood and set on a 1,000 sq m expanse. With three bedrooms that he leases out to guests, Imran has seen to it that the homestay is a lesson in sustainability. Rainwater harvesting, waste segregation, recycling of wastewater, and solid waste management are a few of the successes.

The rustic vintage vibe of the homestay is an antidote to novelty, something that Imran prides himself on. He shares that often people spot a lone tiger roaming around. Other times it is birdsong that will keep you company.

“This is the space I always wanted to create,” he explains. “A space where wildlife and humans can co-exist.”

Edited by Pranita Bhat

“The first photo that I took in the wild after I got my first camera was of a Himalayan Brown Bear in a village called Huliya near Drass. The photo was of a mother and her cub playing in the snow. Witnessing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat was a very captivating experience, and I was thrilled to seize the opportunity to document that moment,” recalls Karamjeet, speaking to The Better India. 

Visit Karamjeet’s Instagram page today, and you’ll find spell-binding photographs of the wildlife in Ladakh.  In his photos, he has managed to capture a variety of endangered species ranging from the elusive snow leopard (Panthera uncia) to the solitary Himalayan Brown Bear (Ursus arctos isabellinus), Pallas’s Cat (Otocolobus manul), Tibetan Wolf (Canis lupus chanco), the Urial (Ovis orientalis), the Eurasian eagle owl (Bubo bubo) and bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), among others. 

Going beyond wildlife, Karamjeet has also captured spectacular photos of the region’s landscape, its tribes and night skies. As Karamjeet notes, “Ladakh contains an amazing range of wildlife, including birds and mammals. It’s a shame not many people notice these incredible creatures. I’m just awestruck by the beauty around us, and I try to capture it with my camera.” 

Armed with his Nikon D750 with a 200-500 mm lens which his father got him “after a lot of persisting”, here’s Karamjeet’s story. 

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Ladakh is home

Karamjeet’s family has established roots in Kargil for over five generations. Their home today lies in Balti Bazaar, which is situated in the heart of Kargil town.  

“The initial move to Ladakh was made by my great-great-grandfather, who migrated from Mirpur (now in Pakistan) for trade. He settled in Kargil after marrying a woman hailing from a Buddhist family in Shargole, Kargil. In our small and tight-knit Sikh community in Kargil, familial ties are strong. There are barely 50 of us but we are engaged in various occupations,” he explains.

As Malvika Sharma notes in ‘Partition, identity and belonging among Sikhs in the borderland district of Kargil, Ladakh’, for Asian Ethnicity, “Sikhs in Ladakh arrived as traders in Jammu and Kashmir, and settled around the major trading centres along the silk-route such as Skardu, Kargil, Leh in the then undivided erstwhile princely state as it existed before 1947-partition.”  

Unlike other members of his family who established their business ventures, his father pursued a career as a government school teacher. While one of his uncles is also a school teacher, the others are proprietors of tea-selling businesses. 

Karamjeet, meanwhile, developed his love for photography at a local photo studio in Kargil while he was still studying at the Suru Valley Public School.

“I developed a keen interest in photography while spending time at a local shop called Canon Photographer, where I often observed Anoop Singh, the owner, and his son, Sanjeet Singh, passionately capturing and editing photos. This experience ignited my fascination for photography, leading me to pursue a Bachelor’s degree in journalism and mass communication in New Delhi,” he says. 

“After graduating from journalism school, I had the opportunity to work with Kargil Today, a local media channel, where I worked as a photographer and media professional for over three years,” he adds. 

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Learning how to capture nature’s finest

“I initially relied on cameras borrowed from acquaintances, utilising them as my tools to delve into photography. YouTube tutorials played a crucial role in guiding me through the learning process. In 2016, I joined Roots Ladakh, a travel company run by local entrepreneurs, Muzzamil and Taffazul Hussain, assuming the role of their social media content creator,” says Karamjeet. 

“It was during this period that I seized the opportunity to delve into wildlife photography. My responsibilities expanded as I began guiding groups for Roots Ladakh and serving as a naturalist when they inaugurated their wildlife lodge called Drenmo in Drass,” he adds. 

During this stint with Roots Ladakh, his fascination with the Himalayan Brown Bears deepened. The travel company has been engaged in various Himalayan Brown Bear-centred conservation projects, particularly through their Drenmo Lodge, and the emphasis of these projects is to reduce the conflict between local people and the creatures and promote eco-tourism.

“This connection provided me with the chance to collaborate with the local community, where we collectively engaged in initiatives to raise awareness about the significance of wildlife, particularly the Himalayan Brown Bear, in the region,” he explains. 

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A fascinating and solitary creature, the brown bear has an excellent sense of smell and can run at a speed of 64 kmph. As Niazul Hassan Khan, a local researcher studying the Himalayan Brown Bear notes in his explainer for Nature inFocus, “A subspecies of the Brown Bear (Ursus arctos), the Himalayan Brown Bear is largely confined to rolling uplands, alpine, subalpine, glacial moraines and barren regions of the Greater Himalayas and some parts of Trans-Himalayas…[In India] They are predominantly found in the Kargil region of Ladakh, where their distribution is fragmentary, spread across Drass, Suru valley, Shargole, and Zanskar.”

Besides the people at Roots Ladakh, Karamjeet feels that he owes his development as a wildlife photographer to Zaheer Bagh, a local hotelier and wildlife enthusiast in Kargil.

“His unwavering support and shared passion for exploration have made him a constant companion, and together we’ve explored various parts of Kargil and photographed different species of mammals and birds. I don’t own a car or a two-wheeler, so he would often take me to places that were too far out to be reached by foot. I would also like to mention Baseer Ul-Haq Choudhary (IAS), the former deputy commissioner (DC) of Kargil. He also helped and encouraged me a lot to pursue my dreams,” he explains.

“While I did grasp the basics of photography during my bachelor’s studies, the real learning happened in the natural landscape. I immersed myself in continuous experimentation with any camera that came my way. My learning process involved making many mistakes and gaining a variety of insights from the people in my surroundings,” he adds. 

Capturing these incredible images

What’s the secret behind how he takes these photos? 

“There is no big secret. I just grab my camera and shoot whatever catches my eye. For wildlife shots more specifically, it’s a bit different. I head to places known for wildlife, wait for hours scanning the area, and sometimes, there’s nothing to show. Wildlife is unpredictable, you know?” he says. 

He adds, “But there are those times when a wild animal pops up out of nowhere and puts on a show. So, I try to always keep my eyes open ensuring that I don’t miss an opportunity to capture something in the wild.”

One such opportunity arrived in the winter of 2020-2021 when he captured a captivating photograph of a Himalayan Brown Bear surrounded by feral dogs. For this, he won the second runner-up prize (Conservation Issues) in the Nature inFocus Photography Contest 2021.

As the citation notes, “A growing concern with wildlife conservation in Ladakh is the increasing number of feral and free-ranging dogs. Their ability to multiply fast is considered a threat to the other animals thriving in the same habitat. However, the image shows how the locals have turned this problem into an innovative solution for their woes.” 

“The dogs seen here were feral, but the locals domesticated them to later employ them to deter Himalayan Brown Bears from entering their villages. The system seems to work efficiently for the villagers, as the dogs keep the wild animals at bay and alert the people about them,” it adds.

Also helping him along the way to take these captivating photos are friends and acquaintances who are naturalists, guides, photographers, spotters, and have contacts in villages. 

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“They’re always kind enough to share information about wildlife sightings whenever something interesting is going on. This community is fantastic with networking, so every time there’s any special wildlife activity, we make sure to inform each other,” he adds.

Currently, Karamjeet uses a Canon R5 camera paired with a prime Canon lens for wildlife photography. However, the process extends far beyond just capturing shots; it involves countless hours and a meticulous editing process for both videos and photos. He also relies on Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop to edit his pictures and uses DaVinci Resolve to edit videos. 

“My proficiency with these software tools has been developed through hands-on experimentation and from friends who use them and dedicated learning from tutorials. Despite the time invested, I consider myself a learner in the realm of editing,” he says.

Current Work

As stated earlier, his journey led him to work as a naturalist, guiding wildlife groups for Drenmo Lodge in Drass. “The lodge primarily focuses on Himalayan Brown Bears. The season for these bears runs from April to October with a hibernation period afterwards, making the job seasonal. Fortunately, the Snow Leopard spotting season takes over from December to April,” he says. 

“Last year, I had the privilege of learning from individuals based in Leh who have been actively involved in snow leopard tourism for over a decade. Notable figures include Gulzar Hussain from Snow Leopard Pros, George Otpal of the House of Rumbak, Rashid from the Lungmar Camp, and Morup Namgyal from Shan at Uley. They generously provide freelance opportunities. Not only do I get the chance to photograph the elusive snow leopard and other mammals but I also have the opportunity to guide groups. Through these experiences, I gained valuable insights into the world of snow leopards. Together with my friends, including Morup, Arhaan, Noor Jahan, and Kesang, I regularly embark on wildlife explorations,” he adds.  

Recently moving base to Leh, he is working as a naturalist and photographer for the many freelance projects he undertakes. This has become his source of livelihood at the moment. 

“Additionally, I’ve now started leading independent photography tours during summers with enthusiastic photographers from various parts of India, as we explore different locations in Ladakh and capture magical moments through our lenses,” he says.

Venturing into the wild, Karamjeet is also acutely aware of the real threats to the region’s remarkable fauna and what we can do to address them. 

“The biggest threat to Ladakh’s incredible wildlife is the lack of awareness about the importance of wildlife in our ecosystem. Human encroachment into their territories poses a significant challenge. Additionally, the overpopulation of stray dogs in Ladakh is a pressing issue. Raising awareness and promoting responsible coexistence can play a crucial role in addressing these concerns,” he explains. 

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(Edited by Padmashree Pande; Images & reels courtesy Karamjeet Singh/Instagram)

It’s not too late to experience the thrill of such adventures firsthand. Here’s how you can book your very own caravanning adventure with one of the groups that organise it.

1. Carvaa Travelers

Started by four friends — Jigyasu Joshi, Himanshu Jangid, Yogesh Kumar, and Pranav Sharma — in 2018, Carvaa Travelers is a caravan rental service that wants to popularise the idea of experiential travel.

Elaborating on how the idea struck them, Jigyasu says, “Someone told us about the whole caravan experience and, adventurous as we were, we planned on building one for ourselves. We thought a DIY would be very cool.”

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a kitchenette, fridge, washroom, drinking water, utensils, pillows, quilts, sofa-cum-beds, LPG cylinder, barbeque grill, LED lights, and camping equipment.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 5,500 per night.

Contact them here.

2. Carawander

Camping comes in many varieties. If you are someone who misses the luxuries of life while on a camping trip, this service is for you. They offer queen-sized beds to ensure you have all the comforts while enjoying the changing landscapes outside.

The vans are also equipped with sunroofs through which you can stargaze. The destinations they cover include Rajasthan, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir, Leh Ladakh, Uttarakhand, Delhi, and Agra.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a queen-sized bed with linen, a kitchenette, a washroom with a geyser, a fridge, TV, Wi-Fi, centralised air conditioning, night vision cameras, barbeque and camping equipment, and an entertainment system.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 20,000 per night.

Contact them here.

3. The Road House Campervan

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Living in remote areas, farms, ranches, and the outdoors is fun and games until you begin missing the luxuries of a shower, a bed, and a safe space. This is what Sidharth Varman, a professional from the automotive industry, realised during one of his many off-roading adventures.

“When people are into offroading, or for that matter when they take a van for a trip, at the end of the day, they want to come back to a place that has a shower and some amenities,” he says. This, in fact, was the precursor behind the idea of building a campervan.

The Road House Campervan has expanded from adventure trails to also encompass culture trails and beachside adventures.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a kitchenette with a gas and a burner stove along with cooking utensils, a bathroom, a lounging area with a skylight, charging points, and solar panels that power the light and fan.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 7,000 a night.

Contact them here.

4. Hopper Camper

When you’re looking to travel off-the-beaten path, we say why leave your pet behind? Hopper Camper is one of the many caravanning services that is pet-friendly.

They have a host of trips across South India — caravan trips to the Hogenakkal Falls, a week-long trip to the southernmost tip of the Indian mainland, trips to Ooty, camping trips along the golden beaches of Varkala, the backwaters of Allepey, the Ayurveda estates in Trivandrum, and the tea estates in Munnar.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a kitchen with a stove, cutlery, crockery, a TV, a mini fridge, a sofa-cum-bed, a bathroom with a shower, and camping equipment.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 8,000 a night.

Contact them here.

5. Trippy Wheels

One of the greatest joys of camping is meeting people across cultures, experimenting with food across regions, and of course, sitting around bonfires at night. This is what techie Sanjna Hangal discovered when she was running a home-cooked Indian food catering company in Sweden – Indian Food Göteborg, which served its delights at some of Sweden’s biggest festivals and events.

Intent on bringing the caravanning culture to India, Hangal started Trippy Wheels. You can choose between their variety of caravan journeys through Hampi, Sakleshpur, Northeast India, and more.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a kitchenette, electrical appliances, a music system, and camping and barbeque equipment.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 5,000 per night.

Contact them here.

6. Camper Co

If you were looking to do that Northeast trip, here’s an idea: Why not do it in a campervan?  Camper Co, a Guwahati-based company, rents out their camping jeeps complete with rooftop tents and camping gear, to explore any state in Northeast India — including Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, and Nagaland.

One of their most popular trips is the one to Bhutan’s Punakha to experience the Druk rafting service on the banks of the Mo Chu river. The drive treats you to the panoramic views of Bhutan’s valleys and rivers.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a camping kit that has sleeping bags, mattresses, and basic utensils. Some of their vehicles come equipped with a kitchenette and washroom.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 3,000 a night.

Contact them here.

7. Vahn

For industrial designer Moksha Gandhi, the road has always been her second home. It was amid the pandemic that the group decided to try out the nomadic lifestyle by taking trips through Rajasthan in a campervan that they designed themselves. It was incredible!

So, in 2021 Moksha decided to develop Vahn to share the joys of slow travel with the rest of India.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a kitchenette, a bath and shower, and king-size beds.

Cost: Upwards of Rs 12,000 a night.

Contact them here.

8. Keravan Kerala

Helmed by Kerala Tourism as a part of its caravan tourism policy, Keravan Kerala has a bounty of caravans and caravanning experiences to choose from while exploring the abundance of South India.

The pet-friendly caravan service offers trips to Kerala’s tea plantations, backwaters, hill stations, and iconic spots in the state.

Amenities: Each vehicle includes a kitchenette, a fridge, a microwave, a washroom, a sofa-cum-bed, air conditioning, entertainment systems, Wi-Fi, and an environmentally friendly waste disposal system.

Cost: Price on request.

Contact them here.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

If you have not visited this outstanding example of India’s rich culture and heritage yet, then this is your sign! Every niche and corner of the state has something unique to offer.

Amidst the cultural splendour, there is an array of resorts and hotels that offer visitors the quintessential Rajasthani experience, but there is one you cannot miss. Among the myriad high-end establishments of the state stands a labour of love – Apani Dhani.

Apani Dhani is the manifestation of Ramesh Chandra Jangid’s two passions – serving people and preserving nature. “I am deeply committed to the preservation of nature while simultaneously supporting local communities and providing our guests with the most authentic experience possible,” he shares with The Better India.

Labour of love and passion

Located in Nawalgarh, a city in the heart of the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, the eco-stay is run by Ramesh and his family. However, this family-run stay is not Ramesh’s first try at the hospitality industry and also not his first dream.

Ramesh shares that as a young boy, he harboured a dream of becoming a pilot and seeing the world.

“Born into a carpenter’s family in 1952, with meagre financial resources, I harboured a dream of becoming a pilot. In 1972, I was selected for a Gliding Instructors course in Pune. Achieving my Gliding Instructor rating in 1973, I served as the Instructor In-Charge at the Agra Gliding Club from 1975 to 1979,” he recalls.

Set on his path, he travelled across Germany and Europe to pursue his passion and take part in international gliding competitions and races.

“It was on visits to Germany that I met with some environmentalists and activists who harboured in me a passion for environment preservation,” he recalls.

Ramesh studied the various ill effects of mass tourism on a given region. “This was back in the 80s when terms like sustainability and eco-tourism were unknown to many. After achieving much in my gliding career, I started to feel that I wanted to do something back home,” he says.

By this time, his passion for nature conservation was at a peak and he wanted to try his hand at eco-friendly tourism.

“In the 1980s, my vision of a ‘different type of tourism’ began to take root. Inspired and motivated by various factors, I embarked on this venture.” he says.

He adds, “The monopoly and inequitable distribution of tourism income in our state served as the strongest catalyst, propelling me to initiate a new approach to tourism in Rajasthan.”

Initially, he started a small homestay and then a travel company before venturing on to Apani Dhani. “In 1990, I established Apani Dhani with a triple objective: to promote and preserve local built and intangible heritage, minimise the environmental impact of tourism on natural resources, and foster socially and economically responsible tourism practices.”

A true taste of Rajasthan

Reflecting on the early stages of building the stay, Ramesh recollects, “My belonging to a different section of society stirred unease among the local barons, who collectively sought to obstruct my path to success. The time belonged to a different era; now, we boast some of the highest ratings in foreign travel guidebooks, yet sadly, we are not featured in the brochure of the Department of Tourism.”

When we refer to Apani Dhani as a labour of Ramesh’s love, it epitomises how he invested all his savings into his dream eco-stay.

“Apani Dhani has been conceived and designed by me according to my own dreams and financial resources, without any external support for its development. I reinvested the benefits to fuel its growth, resulting in a slow but organic progression.”

Discussing some of the unique experiences that a guest receives at the stay, he says, “We offer a variety of activities to our guests, aimed at providing them with a comprehensive exploration of our culture and the chance to interact with members of the local community, all while ensuring fair supplementary income for them. These activities encompass various aspects of our heritage and traditions, without compromising on authenticity.”

Guests can enjoy craft workshops including tie-dye, bangle making, pottery, Mandala drawing, and handmade recycled paper, along with cookery classes.

“We also have guided excursions to explore Shekhawati’s unique heritage, countryside outings such as bicycle tours and camel cart strolls, and live music programs,” he adds.

Sustainability at its very core

In 2013, Apani Dhani Ecolodge won the Responsible Tourism Award from Wild Asia in the category Best in Cultural Preservation.

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A post shared by Shekhawati (Nawalgarh) – Rajasthan (@apanidhani_ecolodge)

Explaining how the building in itself embodies sustainability, Ramesh says, “We initially used locally-acquired clay for the walls and pampas grass for the roofs in our initial huts, while our yoga hall, dining room, and family room feature rammed earth walls. For the two new rooms constructed during the Covid-19 pandemic, we utilised AAC blocks for the walls and stone slabs for the roofs.”

Besides, the eco-stay follows a plethora of sustainable practices to keep the nature around it intact.

He says, “My commitment to ecotourism and sustainable travel predates its global buzzword status. Sustainable, environmentally-friendly practices have long been ingrained in our daily operations.”

The guests are guided towards sustainable personal use of water resources in our semi-arid environment, with practices such as rainwater harvesting implemented at the stay.

“Besides using photovoltaic panels and solar water heaters, all the meals are served in disposable and compostable leaf plates, and we offer a sustainable and responsible laundry service,” he says.

Additionally, they compost all their wet waste which is later used in their fields.

“All the food that our guests eat is sourced from our organic fields, which cultivate vegetables, cereals, pulses, oilseeds, and more. We refrain from using chemical fertilisers, ensuring that all crops are grown naturally,” he shares.

“We encourage travellers, whenever possible, to participate in non-polluting activities such as walks, cycling and camel cart excursions,” he adds.

Additionally, in a bid to keep their promotion activities in line with their philosophy, the eco-stay’s business cards, cookery books, and brochures on hand-made recycled paper.

Since it opened its doors, the eco-stay has hosted over 15,000 guests so far. With an average of 4.4-star reviews on Google, the place has become a favourite of the guests. “The place has amazing food and is a great place to experience bangle making and tie-dyes among other activities. The hosts were gracious and made our stay comfortable,” wrote Venkatesh Bhattaram who stayed at the eco-stay.

“The key to ensuring our guests’ comfort lies in the involvement of my family. We strive to make them feel like a part of our own family, attending to their every need. Additionally, the inclusion of homemade regional cuisines enhances the homely experience for our guests,” he states.

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All Pictures credit: Apani Dhani)

Kundan has spent the better part of his life tending to his apple orchard, and so, every guest is treated to delicacies that feature that fruit. As he gives The Better India a rundown of the neighbourhood, he says entertaining guests is his favourite thing to do.

You’ll see this for yourself if you take a trip here.

The 30-minute bus ride from Kullu to the cosy homestay is bone-rattling with the unwelcome terrain playing spoilsport. But once you reach Kundan’s home, all discomfort is washed away by the warm soup, prepared and served by his wife Kala as a welcome drink.

The smiling couple — who are in their forties — will unleash their hospitality upon your arrival. They will waste no time in telling you that this is your home and you must make yourself feel at ease.

Come evening and Kundan will urge you to share stories of your culture, while he shares some of his own. Throughout your stay, the couple will encourage you to eat, feast, and eat some more!

Having lived off the produce of their farm for decades now, Kundan has an ardent respect for the two bighas of land. The vivid colours of brown (wheat), red (apples), and green (pulses), interspersed with blues, oranges, and yellows will compete for your attention.

But looking around can be done later, Kundan will tell you. First, you must settle down and rest.

What prompted the creation of this oasis? Kundan replies, “We would hardly leave the village. A part of me wanted to meet people of different places and cultures. I wanted to know about their lives and their stories. I wanted to see the world.” But exploring the world on a farming income was tough, as Kundan discovered.

So, if he couldn’t go around the world, he would bring the world to his village. Kundan Homestay is an attempt at doing this. A one-night stay here will cost you Rs 1000.

The pet-friendly homestay formally opened in 2016 with two additional guestrooms (that are equipped with modern amenities). But a beautiful story prequels this.

A century-old pride

One day on his way home from the farm, Kundan saw an unusual sight. A group of eight tourists with their luggage was waiting near the bus stop. It was past six in the evening. “Buses in the village do not ply post six o’clock. I knew there was no way for the tourists to reach Kullu before morning,” Kundan explains.

A conversation later, Kundan was seen leading the group of tourists towards his home.

The latter enjoyed their stay in the mud home and one among the group coaxed Kundan to have his house registered on a travel website. “He helped me with everything. And once they left, I began getting requests from people across India who wanted to experience life in a mud homestay,” he shares.

In the time to come, Kundan built an additional room beside the homestay where travellers who were not comfortable with living in a mud property, could stay. By 2016, Kundan and his family had become pros at hosting guests not just from India but Australia, Germany, the Philippines and Italy, alike.

The first story that the farmer treats each of his guests to, is the design philosophy of the home. “It has been standing tall for over a century. Not an earthquake has been able to shift its foundation,” he notes. This remarkable fact is courtesy of the home’s architecture, which is built in a traditional style using wood and stone.

Not only does this design make the home calamity-proof, but it also keeps it cosy on chilly days.  As one guest Gopi testifies, “We visited in December when temperatures hit below zero degrees Celsius, but we hardly needed a blanket! It was that warm inside the home.”

But while the home’s design can be credited for the warmth, Kundan’s wife Kala’s cooking is also responsible for part of the magic. The food is steaming hot and prepared with produce sourced from the farm.

Gopi and his friends were treated to a sumptuous feast of bari (a mixture of various dals boiled in turmeric leaves), siddu (a steamed dish made from wheat flour and served with garlic chutney), pahadi chicken curry, and more. Don’t forget to ask for an extra helping of the steaming hot gajar ka halwa (carrot dessert) that is admittedly one of her specialities.

A bonus is the ambience — you’ll be having these feasts on the charpai outside Kundan’s home with the stars for company.

Through your stay, you can revel in the landscape of Himachal that seems to be unchanged over the years, even though modernity has set in. The apple orchards, the sun’s golden glow, and the equally cheery smiles of the local villagers, who pride themselves on their culture, cannot go unnoticed. To add to the merriment of your trip, Kundan has interesting stories about the village and his ancestral family that he retells to anyone who will listen.

Once he has ascertained your interests, he will take you around the village so you can witness the culture for yourself. “Tourists enjoy seeing the village women decked in pattoo (the local dress worn by Himachali women that comprises a long shawl spun out of pure wool). They also enjoy seeing the natti dance (a performance where the local youth dance to popular folk songs and enact stories of their culture),” he says.

In the evenings, you can accompany Kundan to the farm where he will introduce you to the traditional techniques of pahadi agriculture. Take heed and notes!

As dark settles, Kala gets to work to turn fresh produce into delectable food, and you can be a bystander to the amazing fare she is preparing.

While tourists enjoy the culture in the village, Kundan enjoys hearing about theirs. These interactions have changed his mindset in many ways.

“The belief in the village was that girls should be married off young,” he explains. “And though my wife and I would send our children to school, we often had their marriage at the back of our minds. We would worry that once they have completed school we need to think about it. But the tourists who came to my homestay from foreign places tell me ‘Kundan ji, education gives a better life’. This began changing our mindset. Now I am not worried about my girls getting married young. There is time.”

As evening bathes the Kais village in a bluish tinge, it is wonderful to watch the farmer’s family bustling about their guests. “I couldn’t take my family to see the world. So, I brought the world to them,” Kundan says, reiterating his dream.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

But here’s the thing. The end location he put was London! And you can only imagine the result Google Maps rendered. 

While many would rethink this brave feat around the globe, Daman Thakore was excited by the prospect. Driving through the breezy spring countryside or through the unforgivingly harsh, scorching deserts, this journey had been what this avid adventurer had dreamt of doing on his 50th birthday. 

And to simply have an adventure and do what few others have attempted before was alluring in its own way. Doing it with ‘Lal Pari’ — a vintage UK-made 1950 MG YT manufactured 73 years ago, a part of his family since 1979 — was the icing on the cake. 

In fact, as Daman interjects, the trip was a treat for Lal Pari (red fairy). “The car was manufactured in a factory in Abingdon, UK, and we planned the trip with that as the final destination in mind. It was a sort of homecoming for her.” 

Driving across continents is tough. But packing for the trip is a tougher feat. Daman’s instructions to his six companions were clear. “Pack three sets of clothes and wear the fourth. But carry plenty of food.”

To the urbane traveller, this would seem insane. But as Daman rightly points out, “Nothing about this trip was normal.”

And so armed with the said duffle bags, and 80 kg of food, the family plodded from horizon to horizon. It took around 11 months of planning for the trip, and test drives around Gujarat to ensure Lal Pari was ready for the long ride that awaited. Fortunately, says Daman, driving licences weren’t a problem as he’d already procured an international license prior to the trip that was valid across countries. Each country they entered had local road tax and insurance charges that they needed to pay.

Finally, the journey across time was set to begin from Mumbai on the Indian Independence Day, 2023. 

Breaking down the route, Daman says, “We left from Ahmedabad on 12 August. On 15 August we undertook the sea route from Mumbai to Dubai where we reached on 28 August. Once in Dubai, we hit the road and reached the UK on 26 October. In total, the journey took us 76 days.” 

Putting their faith in the most feasible route suggested by Google Maps, they embarked on their trip. “The Dubai to London route was what we settled on after exploring several different routes, including ones through Russia,” Daman notes. 

Through the time spent in the two and a half months driving through 16 countries, Daman and his family have watched the world through a window, literally and metaphorically. “Landscapes changed, time zones shifted, we watched it all in real-time,” he says gazing off into the distance. 

And I’m sure that he is mentally still in those lands he speaks of so fondly. But how much did this mind-boggling trip cost, you may ask? “Roughly the cost of a Mercedes,” Daman says cheekily.

Around the world in 76 days 

As a child, Daman never saw Lal Pari as a car. “My mother would tell me these stories of how Lal Pari had superpowers and could come to save us whenever we needed. I grew up believing that.” 

“All my favourite memories have been in this car,” Daman adds. These include trips to the zoo when he was younger, family trips when he was older, and eventually his marriage. So, it only seemed right that the car was his companion on this dreamy adventure. 

Navigating across the world on an impulse and high adrenaline means figuring out where your next lunch is going to be, hoping to find a petrol pump in a remote village where water is gold, and driving towards the next destination with hope, even when the road gets tough. 

But through it all, Lal Pari was very well-behaved. Before embarking on this daring tryst, only the carburettor was changed. 

“Better fuel efficiency and more reliability, you see,” he adds. 

The rest of the car, the engine, the gearbox, and the decor were preserved. 

Every dawn was a new village, every dusk a new countryside, and every day the family would pray to the weather gods to be kind and for any medical emergency to be averted. 

“Of course, we had our fair share of bad weather,” says Daman. “But we improvised.” He recalls the early days of the trip when the weather was warm and half-sleeve t-shirts were the norm for the group. “But as we drove through Turkey, Greece, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Montenegro, Albania, Slovenia and Croatia, it began getting cold. When we reached Switzerland, France, Italy and the UK, it was raining!” 

So, what did the family do? 

“We wore our raincoats and continued driving,” laughs Daman. “We knew it wasn’t going to be sunshine and rainbows all the time,” he adds. And so the family of seven, Daman, his wife, his 75-year-old father, his 21-year-old daughter, a photographer friend, and an uncle, drove to the edge of the world with a support vehicle behind that held the luggage. 

Suitcases of memories  

Uncertainty seemed to be the theme of every day. But no one was complaining. Recalling a nerve-wracking episode they had when they crossed the Turkey border, Daman shares how they were set to reach their pre-booked stay in the morning, but reached at 3:30 am. 

“The designated guy wasn’t answering. We couldn’t manage to book any new place. So, we drove around in the car until we managed to find somewhere to stay!” 

A gamble with fate is what the trip was. “Throughout the journey, the only thing we were sure about was our direction,” Daman adds. 

But even in the face of changing climes and uncertain destinations, Daman says the incredible love they received from people served as their compass. People’s fondness for India shone through, Daman recalls when Mr Omidvar (a gentleman they met in Tehran) sang the Indian national anthem — which he had learnt on his trip to India in 1953 — to perfection. The group recalls watching with goosebumps. Daman was fascinated when he told the group about his own expedition in 1953 where he rode around the world on a motorbike. 

“Here I was with gadgets, Google Maps, a phone, technology and the latest roads. But this man had done it at a time when none of this existed,” he says.

The love for India only became more evident as the group neared their destination. “In Bulgaria, we stopped for engine oil at a small village which is home to one of the most orthodox churches in the world. A woman in her fifties asked us to accept the fuel for free. The fact that we were Indians got us this favour.”

As the woman explained, her love for India had led her to memorise the Bhagwad Gita and the Ramayana. She was well-versed in Sanskrit and was a fan of Amitabh Bachchan and Shah Rukh Khan. “And you’ll be surprised to know she had never been to India,” emphasises Daman. 

“The country has goodwill across the world,” he adds. 

And kindness never left the family’s side. 

When in the UK, Daman recounts how a man named Anil helped him through a sticky spot. “My car had broken down and it was very expensive to hire a pickup truck there. I had visited Anil for a few car-related things the previous day and as soon as the car broke down, I asked him if he could send someone to help.” 

Not only did Anil drive 600 miles to help but did not charge a penny for it. “Yesterday when you drove Lal Pari to my garage, you brought a smile to my son’s face. I cannot charge you,” was Anil’s excuse. 

But what’s more fascinating is the number of people Daman met through this incredible journey that they undertook – fifty thousand people and counting! And when he finally reached the destination, the exhilaration was visible. 

“In fact, the start of the journey was equally emotional. It was something I’d been dreaming of for the longest time and to get out in Dubai and onto the road was amazing,” he says. 

It was during the documentation process and obtaining a carnet de passage (passport for the car that enables it to travel across countries) that they learnt that they were one of the first Indians to undertake an expedition of this kind. 

“Doing the trip with my family added to the magic,” Daman says. “There was so much joy when we accomplished it, and a feeling of gratitude to be able to do what many may have dreamt of.”

That being said, he adds that the magic of travel evokes a unanimous feeling. It is ingrained in our DNA. 

“Whether it was Vasco da Gama exploring the world, or you and I, travel is intrinsic to our existence,” he adds. Today, Lal Pari is back in Daman’s garage in their Ahmedabad home after the long and telling adventure she’s been on. I don’t know if it’s just my imagination but it seems like Lal Pari is shining a little bit brighter, ready for the next exciting adventure. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All photo credits are attributed to Vinay Panjwani)

If you were to enter any Moghul court back then, an amusing sight would greet you. On hot summer afternoons, courtmen would gather around and play a game of cards, apt for the season. While to the uninitiated eye, it would appear to be a usual card game, a closer look would prove otherwise.

The ‘cards’ were made with ivory and tortoiseshells, instead of paper (commonly used today), and bedecked with illustrations of kings atop horses, chariots, royal suits and palaces. The present rectangular design was then a circular frame. And the name of the game was ganjifa.

While the Moghuls played ganjifa to their heart’s content, its popularity waned over centuries, eventually only remaining in Maharashtra’s Sawantwadi — where you can buy yourself a pack of ganjifa cards from the local bazaar even now! As the game lost favour in places where it was once a daily ritual, the artisans of Sawantwadi attempted to preserve it by learning it from the Chitrakar community, who were skilled in making the cards.

Today Sawantwadi is the only remaining place in India where ganjifa is still practised.

The royal couple — Yuvraj Lakham Sawant Bhonsle and Yuvrani Shraddha Sawant Bhonsle — shine with pride as they tell this story. Their love for culture is evident. And the Sawantwadi Palace Hotel, a boutique homestay that is a restored marvel preserving the ganjifa art is a testament to this passion.

A stay steeped in history

Upon entering Sawantwadi, the air seems different. The villages are blanketed with a kind of mystique, and history will whisper to you from every corner if you take the time to listen.

Known as the land of the artists, the princely state was ruled by the Royal Family of Sawant Bhonsles. The Sawantwadi Palace was built by Khem Sawant III and its vibrant red laterite facade is complemented by arches that draw from English architectural styles.

When the Sawant Bhonsle family decided to open their doors to the public as a homestay, it was backed by the intent to take Sawantwadi art one step ahead by making it accessible to people from all over.

“The boutique art hotel is built for you to experience these art forms in their purest form,” Shraddha says. She and Lakham are the 19th generation of the Sawant Bhonsle family. They are united by their shared passion for the arts and food (both are professional chefs who studied at the Culinary Institute of America).

As you will see, the revival of the palace quarters and its journey to a homestay has roots in the couple’s love story.

“The plan was to get married in Goa,” Shraddha shares. “But, while planning, we realised we had a beautiful palace right here. So, we began restoring it and that’s when we saw potential. It was an informed decision by the family to turn a portion of it into a boutique hotel featuring six suite rooms.”

The said portion was called ‘Taisaheb Wada’ — a wing dedicated to the five queens of Sawantwadi. The rest of the palace continues to be a private residence.

And thus, the couple got started — Shraddha’s culinary prowess and Lakham’s natural instinct for art, a combination that unveiled the lost grandeur of the 18th-century palace. For Lakham, the part he thoroughly enjoyed was seeing life being breathed back into the silence of the place he calls home.

“In the past, before India got independence, there used to be a lot of people who would come to the palace to meet my grandfather. There would be activities going on, chatter and laughter. But in recent years my family were the only ones living here. Palaces are built for people. The human energy was missing,” he notes.

Starting the homestay, was an attempt at bringing it back.

From deciding to restore the palace quarters to hosting their first guests in January 2023, the couple recount the four-year journey to be one of the most iconic adventures they have had together. The most wonderful part, according to them, was inking friendships with the local artisans of Sawantwadi who were delighted to be a part of the process.

If you recall the legacy of the ganjifa art you were treated to at the beginning of this tale, you’ll be thrilled to know that the art finds its purest expression in the palace hotel — in the facades, the decor, the cutlery, the furnishings, and the village.

A warm welcome into the palace

It is astounding how much the Sawantwadi Palace relies on the bounty of the village’s heritage and culture. Right from the cultural workshops that let tourists experiment with the ganjifa art to the furnishings of the palace.

“A lot of it has been preserved,” says Shraddha, elaborating on the furniture and the foundational structure. “However, we had to strengthen some of the walls by installing metal planks especially since there is an influx of people now. We need the structure to be strong.”

The couple also had modern bathrooms constructed. But aside from this, whatever you see is the original structure. Taking us on a virtual tour of the room, Shraddha says the decor is an ode to the ganjifa art.

“Instead of numbering the rooms, they are named after avatars of Lord Vishnu. The idea is for people to understand the history of Sawantwadi. When you enter a certain room, everything from the doorknob to the decor is a work of our artisans and has ganjifa symbols painted on them. We’ve inculcated the art in bits and pieces in the night lamps, the tea trays and everywhere we could,” she says.

But while this is fascinating, Shraddha says you should hear the legacy of the furniture. “These have been made by the Sawant Bhonsle family in their unit ‘Sawantwadi Lacquerwares’.

Interestingly, this is also the place where the ganjifa revival happened.

“When my grandfather-in-law HH Rajesaheb Shivramraje Bhonsle visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, he noticed a label reading Sawantwadi Cards. He and his wife learnt the art from the 80-year-old artist Pundalik Chitari who at that time would make only two sets of ganjifa a year. They started Sawantwadi Lacquerwares in 1971 to revive and promote the art of ganjifa and lacquerware.”

True to the message championed by their ancestors, the couple is insistent on empowering the local artisanal communities through their creation of the boutique hotel.

“We only hired locals. We’re always told that the process would have been easier and quicker if we had employed architectural firms from bigger cities, but we were insistent that we wanted the locals to be an integral part of the restoration from start to finish,” she adds.

And the couple is glad they opted for this. “It led us to discover so many interesting facets,” smiles Shraddha, sharing an anecdote of how they came across huge stones while they were clearing the ground where the swimming pool currently is.

“It was a forest earlier. During the clearing spree, we began seeing mosaic patterns on the stones, and that’s when we realised these were actually tiles. Eventually, we came across the first wada our ancestors had built.” Today, you will see those same stones in the boutique hotel premises.

Involving the artisans in the restoration was symbolic for many reasons.

Lakham shares that these families were always an integral part of the family’s work. But with time, their children moved to cities because of better opportunities. “Convincing these artisans’ children about our dream was tough, but we told them what we were attempting to create and they understood. We also promised we’d match their city salaries.”

Talk a walk with royalty

The beautiful part about staying at the Sawantwadi Palace is that along with living in royal quarters and witnessing history, you also get a front-row seat to the family’s iconic journey. The museum is breathtaking.

“It’s more of a photo gallery,” Shraddha is modest about it. Designed by Lakham’s grandparents, the space showcases the family history and events that stood out. “There are pictures and stories of certain untold events. For instance, before the big Dandi March happened, Gandhi was actually in hiding at one of our summer palaces. There was also a visit from Nehru. There are coronation photos of my grandfather-in-law, the last coronated King.”

The dip into culture does not end here.

A short drive away from the palace hotel lies the Pinguli village where guests are treated to the story of the origin of leather puppetry. Honoured with a prestigious Padma Shri award, the legacy of the founder’s remarkable contributions remains and his son, the talented Chetan Gangavane, will personally guide you through the fascinating puppetry museum.

Some of the puppets also feature in the palace hotel. Shraddha finds them a great ice-breaker. “We love striking up conversations with our guests. This is a wonderful way to.”

Another conversation starter is the ganjifa cards and Shraddha is proud to share that the family has acquired the largest collection of ganjifa cards all over India. At the homestay, you’ll also be able to attend an exclusive workshop where you can learn all about the famed art form.

Agreed, there is a lot to do during your stay. But, we recommend spending an evening of bliss in the organic gardens on the property where the family cultivates their greens — chillies, eggplant, edible flowers and other vegetables.

The gardens are fascinating and you can only imagine why the lunch is a kaleidoscope of flavours, the colours paralleling the beauty of the place itself. The Konkan influence is visible in each dish and fish is the obvious hero with curries and fried delights that bring out its flavour to perfection.

The Sawantwadi Palace Hotel is bliss in all its splendid geometry. And I am still reeling over the fact that I have spoken to royalty themselves.

But I can testify that neither the grandeur of the Sawantwadi Palace Hotel nor the beautiful shades it turns as the sun sets can parallel the warmth of this couple who says all they want to do is dream bigger and carry the legacy forward.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat; All pictures credit: Mohith Srivastav)

A stay in a Rajasthani home would be the icing on the cake.

The first place they came across in Jodhpur was the village of Salawas which prides itself on the legendary dhurrie making (handwoven floor coverings whose designs are inspired by the state’s culture). Lucy could hardly contain her excitement on meeting Pukhraj ji’s family whose ancestors have been engaged in the artisanal craft for over seven centuries.

Hours later, her arms were loaded with purchases of woven dhurries for her friends back home. It was time to leave. But the rustic village with its mud homes and sprawling courtyards had cast a trance on her. She found it impossible to leave this vintage magic for the plushness of a hotel.

As Pukhraj ji’s son Chhotaram Prajapat, who is now in his 30s recalls, the couple showed every intention to stay back with his family.

“We did not know English back then. But Brad and Lucy used sign language to ask us if they could live with us for a few days. We were surprised! Of course not!” It was unheard of for foreigners to live with the villagers at the time. “What would we serve them to eat? Where would they sleep? All we could offer them was charpais under the open sky. We couldn’t compete with the luxuries of a hotel.”

But Brad and Lucy weren’t ones to give up. The next morning they returned with a gentleman who was fluent in both English and Rajasthani dialect. “He communicated their request to us again, and told us they weren’t looking for luxuries but for an authentic Jodhpur experience in a mud home and sleeping under the skies. Our home was perfect.”

And so, the couple were welcomed into Pukhraj ji’s home for the next 15 days. And, unknown to Chhotaram, this would set the precedent for his dream homestay business one day.

A business is born of serendipity

Today, the Chhotaram Prajapat Homestay is the place guests head to for a “mesmerising experience” in Jodhpur. At a distance of 20 km from the heritage city, the homestay’s contemporary dwelling ensures that it matches the local cultural experience that guests flock to Jodhpur for.

So, how did Brad and Lucy’s stay influence this idea?

Tying the two stories together, Chhotaram says it was a work of the Universe.

Neither of the two parties were the same following the fortnight the couple spent at the home. As for the couple, they were treated to a world very different from their own. They slept under the stars — “just like gypsies”, chuckles Chhotaram, ate the local Rajasthani food — “and cried because of the spice” — and were thoroughly amused at how water is boiled and cooled before it is served.

Chhotaram’s family meanwhile picked up a few English words and learnt of cultures on foreign shores, way beyond the confines of the humble village. Fifteen days came to an end quickly, and Brad and Lucy headed back to the UK with a promise to return. Chhotaram was under the impression that this had been a one-off incident, but he couldn’t be more wrong.

In a couple of months, the locals of the village of Salawas could be heard guiding many foreigners to the ‘mud home’, which was Chhotaram’s. Friends of Brad and Lucy, these people had heard of and seen pictures of the couple’s experience and were here to witness it for themselves. This time, Chhotaram was more than happy to oblige.

“Having hosted Brad and Lucy before, we were familiar with the spice that people abroad could tolerate and so we customised the food according to that.” Meanwhile, Chhotaram’s English vocabulary had expanded and he was thoroughly enjoying his talks with the guests.

One such conversation in 2011 was the most significant, he says.

He observed one of his guests, Brad’s friend, working on a laptop with a dongle for connectivity. He’d been staying with Chhotaram for three months at the time. “We got talking and he suggested that I open up my home for tourism officially. Like a homestay.”

A stranger to the internet and running a business, Chhotaram laughed it off. But the guest was persistent. “I’ll help you set it up,” he promised. “People love your home over a hotel because of the local experience you give.”

Intrigued at how this would work, Chotaram agreed. In a matter of minutes, the guest had registered the home on a travel website and created an email address for Chhotaram through which he could access bookings.

Thus was born the Chhotaram Prajapat Homestay. “I came up with the name on the spur of the moment. I said ‘name it after me’,” he shares.

From paying Rs 700 to a local cyber cafe to access the internet for bookings and buying a computer “that took two hours to reply to an email” to now accepting bookings at the click of a button, Chhotaram has come a long way.

Weaving a successful venture 

As the influx of guests increased, Chhotaram’s home was no longer sufficient to accommodate them. And thus, the weaver began building traditional huts near his home. Today, 10 of these stand shoulder-to-shoulder, each complete with a western bathroom, which has cold and hot water, and other amenities excluding televisions and air conditioning.

The family wants to preserve the antique charm of the homestays.

Whilst here, guests are encouraged to come watch the art of dhurrie making. “We earn our daily bread from this business only. Earlier, we used to serve the noble families. We would make dhurries for maharajas and landlords. As time passed, our families got involved in other businesses but were badly exploited by the businessmen.”

It was then, in 1986, that Pukhraj ji decided to take matters into his own hands. “My father set up a co-operative with 45 families and started to sell directly from the village. This eliminated the middlemen,” says Chhotaram.

And today, Salawas is a thriving village for the craft. Made using the interlock weaving technique, which is not practised in many places in the world, the dhurrie making in this village is famed far and wide.

But retaining a craft is not easy, he points out. “It is challenging because new generations are not interested in the craft. No one wants to be an artist after getting an education. Everyone wants to be a doctor. One average size dhurrie takes around a month to complete and is sold for Rs 10,000. It is hard work,” he adds.

That being said, Chhotaram is hopeful that things will improve.

While he shows his guests around the weaving rooms, he also takes them on the camel safari through the village. There are also jeep safaris to enjoy that take you through the bazaars, trips to the Sardar Samand Lake popular for birdwatching, and the local crafts of the village.

Keep your stomach light, though. The food at the Chhotaram Prajapat Homestay is a feast for the eyes and mouth.

“We don’t have posh suites, but our small dwellings match the genuineness of all comforts and that homely feel. We also don’t offer multi-cuisine but the food is just mouth-watering made with extra care, and we are famous for the taste of our spices,” says Chhotaram, whose wife is in charge of the cuisine and also conducts cooking classes for the guests where she teaches them to brew a feast on the open fire that uses cow dung for fuel.

Dusk is settling and its blue tinge complements the city palette. As the two shades find their sync in each other, a man walks towards the mud huts in the village of Salawas. Accompanying him is a tourist from foreign shores. Chhotaram Prajapat has found his new guest.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

“I knew something was wrong with me when I handled my baby roughly,” Moushmi Kapadia shares. 

The incident, which took place in 2009, woke Moushmi up to take control of her life. Battling depression for three years, she decided to become the best version of herself for her two young children.

Handling two kids, one a five-year-old with a rare disease, and the other just a baby, all alone in Mumbai, took a heavy toll on Moushmi’s mental and physical health. As she scrambled around trying to handle her firstborn’s hospital visits and looking after her infant’s needs, the young mom lost herself in the process.

She was frustrated, sad and angry all the time. Having neglected herself for over six years, she slipped into depression over time. She remembers being overwhelmed by the situation. Her husband was in Dubai for work while she returned to Mumbai for her son’s treatment.

“I wanted to give my children the best mom in the world. I didn’t realise at that time that there was no such thing as a best mom. You only need to be a happy mom,” she adds.

Since that fateful day almost 15 years ago, there has been no looking back. Starting with counselling, she started her fitness journey and did everything she ever wanted to do. From biking across the country to scaling the highest peaks, this 45-year-old has done it all. She has explored 21 countries and 26 states, been on 15 biking expeditions across the country and 12 treks. 

Her first born Vedansh, who has a rare genetic disease called the Rigid Spine Muscular Dystrophy (RSMD) which causes muscle degeneration, is also a beacon of inspiration with his never-say-die attitude and is living a life with no regrets.

Here’s the story of how Moushmi turned her life around-

‘Doctors told me my son had four years to live’

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A post shared by Moushmi Kapadia (@missmanyhands)

When Vedansh was one, Moushmi and her husband, Priyesh, started noticing that he wasn’t able to hold his neck. The next 18 months that followed were some of the most difficult times in the couple’s life. Their baby kept falling sick and yet, they weren’t able to get a proper diagnosis.

“They conducted a plethora of tests at the time. Everything returned normal, yet there was something wrong with my child. He started having pneumonia attacks and had to be hospitalised. They would insert an electronic needle in his neck to check if it was normal,” Moushmi shares with The Better India.

After consultations from doctors across different hospitals, a doctor in the UK was finally able to unveil the root of the problem. Vedansh was diagnosed with RSMD, a genetic disorder which causes muscle weakness, especially of the neck and torso, and causes breathing difficulties. In Vedansh’s case, it also led to scoliosis (a sideways curve of the spine), which required surgery. 

Moushmi’s first reaction when she heard the diagnosis was one of relief. 

“I finally knew what the problem was. But the next minute, the doctor said that nothing could be done about it. It is an incurable disease and we can only maintain the child. That was devastating,” recalls Moushmi.

Armed with this new information, they returned to Dubai. The doctor in the UK had explained the dos and don’ts, how to take care of the child, and what could happen. As they settled into a routine, Vedansh had a massive pneumonia attack when he was three. Recalling that day, Moushmi remembers how she collapsed on the floor as she watched her toddler in the ICU.

“They didn’t tell me that they would put him on the ventilator. All I could see in the ICU was a  pillow and my child on it. The pillow was bigger than him. Doctors had lost hope and told me, ‘Pray to God, we’ve tried our best’. It was all too much for me to take and I just collapsed,” she says.

As he remained on the ventilator for five days, an Indian doctor in the hospital advised the young couple to take the child to India for treatment. Moushmi shudders as she recalls the day they took their child off the ventilator to board the flight back home. 

“The doctor there said that we wouldn’t be able to wean him off the ventilator if we stayed there. Medical facilities weren’t that good in Dubai 20 years back. A particular machine, which was required to help him breathe, wasn’t available. As soon as we arrived in Mumbai, we had three people ready with the instrument,” she adds. 

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A post shared by Moushmi Kapadia (@missmanyhands)

After a few days in the hospital, Vedansh was better, but the doctors told Moushmi that he would live for only 4-5 years. As medical treatment was better back home, she decided to stay back while Priyesh returned to Dubai for work. 

The next few years were spent in hospitals as the 3-year-old had multiple pneumonia attacks caused by weak lungs. Even today, Vedansh uses a BiPap machine to help him breathe. 

A few years later, the couple welcomed a second child, which made life for Moushmi even more difficult as she had to hold the fort alone for a while. 

“I was angry all the time. I would slam doors and was irritated. I didn’t realise that I was depressed. I had stopped thinking about myself. Looking at my state, my friend suggested that I start counselling,” she adds.

Moushmi’s journey in therapy lasted for three years. However, the medications took a toll on her and she gained weight. The weight gain during her second childbirth had also impacted her knees and left them damaged. Her psychologist suggested that she start some physical activity. 

A game of tennis that started it all

Realising that this was not how she wanted her health to be at 35, she started playing tennis, a sport she loved. In the first few days itself, she saw her mood changing and began feeling better. 

She then joined zumba classes and as she felt more confident, she enrolled in a gym.

“Working out releases endorphins, a happy hormone that makes you feel great. I felt more present at home after doing something for myself and I slowly started understanding fitness and got deeper into it. It’s not just about losing weight, but it’s about building muscles and improving your overall health,” explains Moushmi.

As she became happy and content, her children modelled her behaviour. Soon, Moushmi started following her passions, which included biking and trekking. She bought a bike for herself in 2013 and started going on long solo rides. She also started her own venture, an event decor company, and worked as a professional photographer.

“Biking gives me a sense of freedom. It feels meditative and makes me feel independent. Travelling gives me a different perspective on life. I also started challenging my limitations by trekking. Every trek feels like an attempt to conquer our physical and mental obstacles,” she adds.

Moushmi had support from her in-laws as she embarked on these trips. Her children, too, learnt to be independent. Vedansh also started attending school. 

“This helped me give my kids direction and motivate them. Both my kids are not dependent on me now. Vedansh takes care of himself with his limitations and capabilities,” she adds. 

After a few one night biking trips, Moushmi decided that it was time to go on her dream ride to Ladakh. Initially, she admits to being scared as she was a new rider and this would be her first long distance trip. But having crossed the age of 35 at that time, she decided that it was now or never. 

“I did have a worry at the back of my mind about what would happen if something were to happen to me. What would happen if the decision I took was the wrong one? People cautioned me against it, saying what if something happens to you on the trip? But I had decided that the trip was mandatory,” she adds.

She adds that her sons were very supportive of her decision and the reason she could take this decision was the fact that they could manage themselves.

On her first long biking trip,  she went to Leh Ladakh for 10 days. She recounts that it was a challenge, but both mother and son learnt to manage without one other over time.

“At first, a shiver would run down my spine whenever I got a call from home. I would worry if Vedansh was doing okay. It was difficult for both of us. But after overcoming the initial hiccups, he adjusted very well,” she adds.

Being away from each other for such a long time was a first for both mother and son. It’s not all hunky dory, adds the mother. There were teething troubles initially, but they both got used to it over time, and when Moushmi came back with a certificate for completing the trip, Vedansh was very happy and proud of his ‘mumma’.

In fact, Vedansh got the travel bug from his mother. He, too, has explored many countries and celebrated his 19th birthday at Jungfrau, one of the highest points in Europe.

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A post shared by Vedansh Kapadia (@motivation.vedansh)

As Moushmi spread her wings, she became a ‘calmer, better’ mom and got closer to her children. She connected more with Vedansh and their conversations became more meaningful.

To every mother grappling with the decision of whether they should leave their children and go on a trip, she says that first and foremost, mothers should let go of their ‘mother’s guilt’.

“We create this guilt and it’s all in our mind. We think that our children feel sad when we leave them and go. Do they really feel so though? We put these thoughts in their mind. We wonder who will take care of the child. Firstly, tell yourself it’s okay and know that your child will be taken care of. He or she is in good hands,” she adds.

Vedansh, who is a few months short of 20 today, runs their family’s ice-cream parlour in Mumbai. According to his mother, he has great willpower and runs an Instagram account, ‘motivation.vedansh’, to inspire others through his life’s journey. 

A clear glimpse of his resilience was witnessed in 2016, when he had to undergo a life-threatening spine surgery. As the doctors wheeled him in for surgery, Vedansh insisted that his mother stay by his side. 

The surgery took 8.5 hours, and the then 12-year-old, was on a ventilator for a week. The moment he woke up after five days was the best in Moushmi’s life.  

“I had promised my mumma that I would come off the ventilator, hale and hearty. And so I did,” says Vedansh.

Within 40 days, he was back at school and amazed everyone with his will power. Seeing her child flourish and cope with every challenge that came his way gave Moushmi the motivation to do more. 

“When my child is not complaining, why should I? He is never frustrated and doesn’t throw any tantrums. He got to terms with his disease and accepted it,” says Moushmi.

‘This Part of My Life Is Called Happiness’

Ask Vedansh what bothers him, and displaying maturity beyond his age, he says that he’s happy about everything and sad about nothing.

“Life gives you challenges but it’s how you face them that decides your life ahead. Never give up. I take it one day at a time and try to see something positive in each moment,” he adds.

For a school essay, where he was asked to write his likes and dislikes, under dislikes he wrote that he has a disease and can’t run, while adding, “I’m still very happy.”

For Moushmi, these are the five takeaways from her life  – 

1. Women don’t need to sacrifice themselves.

“We are always told that we need to compromise, sacrifice and adjust. We are told that it’s selfish if you love yourself. But only when I love myself can I love my children,” she says.

2. If you want to, you can.

“Everyone tells me that they can’t do what they want because of their children or lack of familial support. If I can, with a child with needs, a baby with their father in another country, you can too. You only need the motivation to do it,” says Moushmi.

3. Take care of your mind and body.

“Everything else is secondary. Every other role comes after that. We usually put ourselves last. It should be the other way around,” says Moushmi.

4. Life is all about finding balance.

“There is no right or wrong. If it makes you happy, it’s right for you. Find your balance in what you eat, do and say,” she adds.

5. Live your passion.

“Once I started doing the things I loved, I became better at every sphere of life. Only when you make yourself happy can you make the others around you happy,” she adds.

Both mother and son have proven through their actions that major, unforeseen hurdles can be overcome. While Vedansh needs a machine to breathe 20 hours a day and a wheelchair most of the time, he is following his dreams and living a life of no regret. 

So, what’s stopping you from living a full life?

Edited by Padmashree Pande

Although a little later than usual, the city now adorns a pristine white winter glow, perfect for enticing you for a weekend getaway. Just a short walk from the famous Hadimba Temple lies a property that will become your home away from home.

Afsana Homestay, a 50-year-old mud home, takes the ‘home’ part very seriously. Inspired by traditional Himachali homes and the culture they embody, this homestay offers much more than just accommodation.

Heena Mahant, the founder of the homestay, told The Better India, “The homestay is more than just a place to stay. It’s an experience I wanted to share with everyone—the experience of living in a genuine Himachali home, secluded from the bustling city while being nestled between a forest and an apple orchard.”

Heena’s Homecoming

Born and raised in Kullu, Heena remembers visiting her grandma’s home as her child. Back then, she was not aware that that home would one day become her inspiration. 

Like most kids, Heena grew out of her simple pahadi life and moved to Chandigarh. “After completing my graduation and MBA, I started to live in the city and worked for nearly 12 years working as a digital marketer,” she says. 

However, while she loved her career, Heena’s heart belonged back home. In 2020, she fell ill and decided to return home. “I had put in a lot of hard work for a decade and wanted to focus on my health for a while,” she says. 

Returning home, she realised that she wanted to create something of her own in Manali. 

“A lot of my friends owned homestays and I was freelancing and helping them market their homestay. It was the first time the idea of owning my homestay came to me,” she says. 

“However, it was my grandmother’s warm and cosy home that became my inspiration,” she adds. 

Being in Manali brought back memories of Heena’s sweet childhood, and she yearned to recreate something similar. “My grandmother’s home was so authentic, so cosy, and immersed in nature. It offered an experience that was truly unique. I wanted to recreate that magic,” she says.

With a clear direction in mind, Heena needed a solid plan. “I decided to continue freelancing while simultaneously searching for properties and travelling to find the perfect home,” she says. It took a year of searching before Heena finally found the perfect property.

When Heena laid eyes on the 50-year-old home that would become Afsana Homestay, it was love at first sight. “It was as if all my visions for the homestay came to life. The house, half a century old, was constructed with natural materials like wood, mud, and stone. All renovations were carried out using the same materials,” she says.

Nestled amidst an apple orchard and dense forest, the house was secluded and embraced by nature. “It was perfect in every sense,” she adds.

Heena decided to purchase the home and make it her passion project. “No one in my family had ever been in this business,” she adds.

Recalling her parents’ initial reaction to her decision to start a homestay, she says, “I still remember my dad’s scepticism. There was always pressure to get married and settle down when I was in Chandigarh, but upon returning, it intensified even more. I don’t blame them; I’m nearing 32, an age society expects you to get married and “settle down”, not start a passion project.”

“But soon enough, my family realised that I had different plans. My dad showed immense support once he understood my vision for the homestay and my future,” shares Heena.

Armed with her savings and support from her family, Heena began work on her homestay in April 2022. “Within one and a half months, we were ready to welcome our first guests,” she says with a smile.

Since Afsana Homestay opened its doors, they have served over 300 guests.

Creating her grandma’s magic 

Talking about the homestay, she says, “We have three categories of rooms at the property. We avoid taking guests who have kids below 8 years because the walk up to the homestay might be too much for the little ones.”

The property has private rooms with attached washrooms. The prices range between Rs 2,000 to 3,000, depending on the season. “We also have private rooms with a shared washroom. The prices range from Rs 1,000 to 2,000,” she says.

Afsana also has a room perfect for backpackers and travellers on a budget. “These shared rooms provide an economical option at 600 rupees per bed. Washrooms are shared among guests in this category,” she says.

Talking about the experiences she provides in her homestay, she says, “We provide a purely simple Himachali food experience at our homestay. Our caretaker and old cook from back home joined me with the operations of the homestay and cooked these delicious meals. We use our mother’s recipes for making the traditional dish, Siddu, served to our guests.”

All the raw materials are usually sourced from her home farm. “The walnuts for the siddu, the ghee for the food, the veggies and milk are all sourced from my own farm,” she says.

As for the activities, she says, “We offer four to five activities as part of our package. Guests can enjoy a guided tour of the forest park, included in the package, during the morning or evening. We also take them to a secluded, hidden viewpoint with breathtaking views. Here, guests can indulge in a picnic, savour tea, and soak in the remarkable scenery.”

She also has three hikes that the people can experience. She says, “We offer three additional hiking options: Lion King Rock, a one-hour hike; Lamadugh, a four-hour trek; and Rani Sui Lake, a full-day hike. Guests can enjoy these excursions at an additional cost.”

During these treks, Heena makes sure there is no plastic waste discarded by her guests. “It is our duty to maintain the sanctity of the hills. On my way back, we also collect the garbage we find on the path to keep the surroundings clean and green,” she says.

Umang Thebaria, who visited Afsana Homestay, has some wonderful things to share about his stay. “One word that sums up my experience — home. It was so cosy and home-like that we decided to miss our bus only to stay a few more hours on the balcony and soak in the silence. The delicious meals that Ludramani Bhai Ji made for us were so simple yet delicious,” he says.

Solitude is something that helps you find yourself and that is exactly what I felt in the property. I can not go to Manali without visiting Afsana now,” she says.

Besides, Heena says that the serenity around the homestay makes her guests forget all worries of the world.

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“It is very quiet and serene around the homestay. All the guests keep coming back to get a taste of the silence again,” she says.

Heena personally takes care of her guests and stays near the property. “I want to create a bond with my guests. The name Afsana means making stories and that is precisely what I want to do with my guests, make sweet and memorable memories,” she says.

(Edited by Padmashree Pande; All photos credit: Heena)

While the world is headed towards inclusivity, making it a better place for people with disabilities to travel and see the world, mobility and accessibility can still be a hindrance. 

In conversations with numerous individuals with disabilities who fearlessly travel the globe, The Better India has compiled a list of tips and tricks for people with disabilities to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip.

If there is a will, there is a way

Shivam Porwal, born in Ahmedabad, faced the challenges of Phocomelia syndrome—a rare condition leaving him without lower limbs and with only three fingers on each hand.

Yet, his disability didn’t hinder his passion for globetrotting. The 26-year-old adventurer has embarked on numerous road trips and engaged in adrenaline-pumping sports like zip-lining, paragliding, and skydiving. 

1. His key advice? Trust yourself. When Shivam decided on a road trip with his wife, many were sceptical. However, they defied all the odds. His tips include staying hydrated with electrolytes and packing essential medications, jackets, and helmets.

2. Choosing the right vehicle is crucial for a road trip. Shivam opted for a customised Bullet, providing stability due to its weight. 

3. Shivam emphasises the importance of travelling with a group for bike trips, ensuring health and safety. When he travelled from Ahmedabad to Ladakh, the group included a backup vehicle and a travelling mechanic.

‘Be open to accepting help’

A solo globetrotter, Parvinder Chawla, was diagnosed with rheumatoid arthritis during her school years. She has travelled solo to 59 countries in her wheelchair so far. 

4. Her top advice? — Never be afraid to ask for help. “Don’t hesitate to ask for assistance. While I understand that the world can be intimidating, there are always good people out there willing to help,” she emphasises.

5. In terms of logistics, Parvinder stresses the importance of being prepared for various situations. “Understanding your body and its needs is crucial. Carry medicines and necessary equipment without fail,” she suggests.

6. Before travelling to a new country, she advises you to make sure you do your research. “I thoroughly examine every aspect — scrutinising the hotel, the country itself, and its wheelchair accessibility. It’s essential to call the hotel or homestay in advance to confirm if they are fully equipped to cater to the needs of a wheelchair user.”

No time like the present

Another such inspiring traveller who is on a unique mission to navigate the Ganga River in 100 days! A patient with rheumatoid arthritis with very little mobility in his fingers and left leg, Rency Thomas feels a sense of urgency with his condition and advises not to hesitate.

7. “It’s easy for people facing similar conditions like mine to lose heart and stop living. But I want to convey that it is possible. Whatever you’re dreaming, if you push yourself enough, you can achieve it,” he says.

Having a good team to back you up in such expeditions is the key to success. “Navigating the high tidal river can be hard but my team has my back and is prepared for anything,” he says.

Go solo but be safe 

A patient of epilepsy, travelling for Priti Vishwakarma was always a far-fetched dream. However, the comments of society and her health could prevent her from achieving her dreams.

8. Epileptic patients often find themselves confined to their homes due to the unpredictable nature of seizures. However, this didn’t deter her. She defied the norm by establishing her own travel company — Womaniya on Roadtrips.

In sharing tips on convincing parents to embark on solo trips, she recommends assuring them of the company’s commitment to safety. With women guides and comprehensive security measures, her travel company prioritises the well-being of its clients.

Edited by Padmashree Pande

A staunch believer in the fact that life happens outside one’s comfort zone, this professor, wife, mother and now globetrotter has recently marked a milestone of having 80 countries under her belt. “Eighty and counting,” she reminds me, as she settles down in the living room of her Jaipur home, to recall her adventures to The Better India.

The home seems like a map in itself, bedecked with souvenirs that Neeru has collected through her trips, right from the Galapagos Islands in the Pacific to the icy horizons of the Atlantic. A personal favourite, hands down, has to be the paintings she purchased from Cuban artists, she says. “They are simply beautiful!” These souvenirs are reminders of the adventures Neeru has had so far, and the empty spaces hold promise for what’s to come.

But the question that begs to be asked is how does she do it at 70!

“What’s your secret?”

Neeru laughs, suggesting there is no secret, but an interesting story that holds the reason behind her fascination for travel.

Recalling her very first day of school when she was riding her bicycle and met with an accident that broke her left leg, Neeru says, ironically “it all started at that moment”. Months of bedrest coupled with intense physiotherapy sessions, meant she was confined to a room while the other kids were at school. The absence of a TV or any form of entertainment compelled her to spend hours looking out the window in her bedroom, where the blue expanse was her only view.

“The clouds attracted me. Now, mind you, Jaipur is a dry state so there wouldn’t be too many of them. But whenever I’d spot one, I’d find myself wondering where it would be heading next. I thought it was very lucky to be able to explore the world while I was stuck in bed,” Neeru smiles.

Being able to explore the world was a stroke of luck one shouldn’t take for granted, thought little Neeru. And today, almost six decades later, she believes the same.

From one horizon to the next

An hour (the duration of the interview) hardly suffices to hear all of Neeru’s tales about her many escapades around the globe. With each new country, comes a new story, a new twist and a new learning. Naturally, she can’t pick a favourite. “Every trip is special,” she notes.

But, if she had to pick one that taught her the most, she says it would be her first solo adventure — a Christmas cruise through Europe in 2014. The view was glorious, of course, but Neeru cherished the trip for more reasons than just the one.

“I would say the trip made me realise how wonderful it was to travel solo. Some say it is daunting, but I disagree. I realised that if one’s flights, pickups, and travel itinerary are planned well, there is no need to worry. As for finding company, well, you’ll make friends along the way. So you’re never really completely alone.”

This trip also gave Neeru perspective. “I came to see the best part about travelling solo — the freedom to decide what you want to do.” She explains, “When it’s a group or family trip, you’re bound by timelines. You’re bound to do what everyone wants to do. But, in contrast to this, there are no demands on a solo trip. You have a dual vantage — you can do the activity you please, while also having the security of being in a group.”

The Christmas cruise taught Neeru one thing — she was capable.

And the rest of her trips, she says, were memorable for different reasons.

Sharing the “most iconic” one, a Sweden trip in the winter of 2017, Neeru says it started with boarding a train from Stockholm to Abisko, the latter famous for the Northern Lights. “Trains abroad are nowhere similar to the ones we have in India. You don’t have people walking up and down. It is very lonesome and everyone is in their compartments,” she says.

On boarding, each person is given a key to the washroom — which is like a plush hotel with a steam and sauna. “On seeing how fancy it was, I decided to spend an hour in the bathroom!” Neeru exclaims, adding that to her shock when she returned to her compartment, she figured she was locked out. “There wasn’t a soul on the train who I could ask for help. I was nervous.”

Eventually, however, Neeru managed to find a way out. “Solo travelling teaches you that no situation is a dead-end.”

The excitement wasn’t over, though. “On reaching Abisko, we stayed in a snow room. It was beautiful and pristine. But the catch was that there weren’t any bathrooms in the room. The nearest bathroom was in the next building.”

Freezing temperatures coupled with no bathroom, resulted in a night that Neeru will never forget. A story for another day, she tells me.

“Every trip has an adventure which teaches me something new,” she says. “Now I have a bucket of memories that I’ve collected.” As Neeru is poised to get set with exciting travel plans this year, she says you need to take the reigns of your life into your own hands.

‘Stop waiting for someone to accompany you’

Anyone who applauds Neeru’s wanderlust spirit must know that it isn’t something recent. “My husband and I always loved to travel,” she says recalling her early years of marriage. As a University professor in Jaipur married to a man with a transferable job, travel was a necessity. The couple were always making trips to be with each other when time permitted.

Their best friend was a Vespa scooter that breezed through Delhi and Jaipur, and later on Shimla and Chandigarh, depending on where Neeru’s husband was posted.

Losing him in 2010, brought travel to a halt for Neeru who had many responsibilities to see to — getting the home constructed, the children married, and her full-time job. But once she retired and her children were settled, Neeru says she waltzed right back to her love for travel.

“I couldn’t keep waiting forever for friends and family to join. I said: Let’s do solo.”

Her journeys have been dotted with memories that will be etched on the canvas of her mind for years to come. Recalling a Trans-Siberian train journey from Moscow to Beijing, Neeru shares how the train passed through five time zones! “Every region had its own breweries and was like a world in itself.” The train also made a stop at Lake Baikal, which is the world’s oldest and deepest freshwater lake.

Those who wanted to were encouraged to swim. Meanwhile, she says, the crew were getting barbeques ready and singing and everyone was joining it. “It felt like we had the whole land to ourselves.” While that trip was iconic for its scenery, one of the most thrilling experiences she has had is skydiving from 12,000 ft in Melbourne.

Another trip to Nagaland, she says, was memorable for the food. “We had snails that were brewed with herbs and served with rice beer. “It is custom for the local communities to keep refilling the glasses before they run dry, and so we ate and drank for hours before we couldn’t possibly eat any more.”

But travel isn’t only about adventure and tourism, Neeru emphasises. “It introduces one to how different cultures approach environment conservation. For instance, the communities on the Galapagos Island — the world’s foremost destination for wildlife viewing — are extremely mindful of how tourists approach the place. No one is allowed to touch any of the species there, nor throw anything. There is a lot of consciousness among the citizens. If you are doing anything incorrect, they are there to point it out to you.”

She adds that another place where this climate-foreword behaviour was seen was Antarctica. “Our entire clothing was scanned to ensure that there is no speck of dust or any seed or hair.”

That being said, Neeru says each place is unique. She encourages senior citizens to experience it all for themselves.

“I would ask everyone who isn’t doing what they wish to, because of age, ‘Why are you worried?’ We all know what our end is going to be. We all know we are going to die one day. So why not enjoy the life that you have?”

Edited by Pranita Bhat.

While the area boasts rich landscapes and beauty, it remained relatively unknown for many years. With limited avenues for income, the youth of the village struggled to survive. Aside from farming, there were few work opportunities.

In an effort to address this issue and boost tourism in the area, Bisharlang Kharnaior initiated Mawlyngbna Traveller’s Nest—a homestay that provides insight into the village’s culture and offers a plethora of activities, including camping, canoeing, and wildlife treks.

“Mawlyngbna is a small village but it is bursting with activities and life. However, for many years, it remained unknown to the world. We want to open it to more people and bring more tourism in the village,” Bisharlang tells The Better India. 

‘Our homestay reflects Mawlyngbna’

Born and raised in Mawlyngbna, Bisharlang, affectionately called Bishar, grew up in his serene village, cherishing the simplicity of life.

As he navigated the complexities of adulthood, he found contentment in his days as a beekeeper.

“I was satisfied with whatever my family and I were earning, but I could see that there were numerous untapped opportunities for the youth. Besides farming, there were almost no other work options,” he reflects.

Observing the youth departing from the village, Bishar felt an urgent need to take action. “My sentiments were shared by many in the village, and we came together to find a solution,” he recalls.

With collective efforts from the villagers, the Mawlyngbna Multipurpose Co-operative Society Ltd was established. “Despite our breathtaking landscape, our existence was relatively unknown to the wider world. The youth faced the dilemma of either leaving the village or struggling for survival. The cooperative society aimed to create new avenues for income generation,” he explains.

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“When we were brainstorming, the first thought that struck us was to promote tourism in the village. Increased tourism not only benefits the village directly but also contributes to the growth of local businesses,” he opines.

“One of my friends from Shilling who was in the tourism industry was the one who gave us the courage to take the leap. He helped us with setting up the property,” he informs. 

Under the society’s umbrella, Bisharlang initiated Mawlyngbna Traveller’s Nest, a unique combination of a homestay and camping site for tourists.

“There is so much to see and explore in the area but most people flock to the mainstream hills station. We wanted to do something that attracts tourists and this is how the idea of an adventure camp came up,” he says. 

“Under the society, we are 240 members who work in bringing new job avenues for people. Through the homestay and camp alone, we have trained 40 people in different tasks like hospitality, housekeeping and trek guiding and given them jobs at the homestay,” he says. 

Adventure, nature and culture

Talking about the initial response of the tourists, Bishar says, “We started back in 2014, while it was a good dream, the initial response was not how we expected,” he says. 

While there were a lot of exciting things that the place had to offer, a lack of awareness prevailed. “It was via Facebook and Google search that a few people started to visit us. With word of mouth, we started getting more and more visitors,” he says. 

“We have hosted nearly 300 people this year alone. The popularity has increased and we get a lot of inquiries,” he adds. 

Talking about the various activities that the homestay offers, he says, “We have a few activities at our homestays. We have divided them according to the season — monsoons and winters. Most of them are related to water sports like Cliff Jumping, River Canyoning, Kayaking, etc. We also organise treks to explore the nearby areas,” he says. 

There are two types of treks — short and long treks. “A long trek is around four hours and a short trek is about 2 hours long. On those treks, you can enjoy the landscapes, enjoy bathing in 4 waterfalls, you can see the fossils and the magnificent rock formations,” he says. 

The homestay also arranges cave exploration for the guests on request. “We have trained nearly 40 locals as trek guides to help people in these treks,” he informs. 

Besides exploring the wilderness, the homestay also organises village tours and cultural activities like eating authentic food. “We also want to introduce people to our culture and heritage. We serve authentic Mawlyngbna food to the people at our homestay during their stay,” he informs. 

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The property currently comprises two cottages and a campsite, providing accommodations for the guests. Bishar emphasises, “We are committed to giving back to nature as it is the very essence of our livelihood. We strive to be environmentally responsible by ensuring that all our treks are plastic-free. Additionally, we utilise bamboo for crafting storage spaces for our guests.”

Reflecting on his journey thus far, Bishar expresses, “I believe we possess immense potential for growth, and it is truly exciting to witness the steady growth of tourism in the village year by year. We are optimistic that one day the village will offer an abundance of opportunities, eliminating the need for anyone to migrate to the city in search of employment.”

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

1. Cholamu Lake, Sikkim

Perched at an altitude of 18,000 feet above sea level, Cholamu Lake, also known as Tso Lhamo Lake, stands as one of the highest lakes in India. Located in North Sikkim, near the border with China (Tibet), this frozen beauty is a testament to nature’s grandeur.

Surrounded by breathtaking Himalayan landscapes, the high altitude and extreme weather conditions contribute to the lake’s characteristic freezing during the winter months.

Visitors must obtain special permission to access the area due to its proximity to international borders. And given the sub-zero temperatures experienced in the region, it is advisable to check the weather conditions before planning a trip here.

2. Tso Moriri Lake, Ladakh

Tso Moriri, also known as Lake Moriri or Mountain Lake, is a stunning high-altitude lake. Situated in the Changthang region of Ladakh at an elevation of approximately 15,075 feet above sea level, the lake boasts breathtaking surroundings with snow-capped peaks and barren landscapes.

The awe-inspiring landscape is enhanced by a chilly breeze and a pervasive sense of serenity in the air. Spanning about 19 kilometres in length and 3 to 5 kilometres in width, the lake offers a vast expanse of water set against the backdrop of the majestic Himalayas.

As a less frequented destination among tourists, Tso Moriri is likely to have fewer crowds, especially during the winter season.

3. Roopkund Lake, Uttarakhand

Perched at a height of approximately 16,499 feet above sea level, Roopkund Lake stands as a favourite destination for experienced trekking enthusiasts. Discovered by a forest ranger in 1942, the lake, at that time, was not frozen and revealed an intriguing sight — it was filled with human skeletons!

This discovery ignited interest among researchers, historians, and trekkers from various corners of the world. The origins of these skeletons remain a mystery, adding to the allure that continues to captivate trekkers. The most widely accepted theory, based on radiocarbon dating and other scientific methods, indicates that the skeletons date back to the ninth century and may be associated with a group of pilgrims or travellers who met their demise due to a sudden and severe hailstorm.

Often referred to as the Skeleton Lake, Roopkund may be relatively small, but it is set against a stunning backdrop, surrounded by snow-capped peaks and rocky terrain.

4. Changu Lake, Sikkim

Another enchanting lake and a popular tourist attraction in Sikkim is Changu Lake, also known as Tsomgo Lake. This glacial lake is situated in East Sikkim and remains frozen during the winter months, creating a picturesque scene against the backdrop of snow-covered landscapes.

Merely 40 km from Gangtok, the lake holds significant religious importance for the local people, marked by a small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on its banks.

At an altitude of approximately 12,400 feet above sea level, Changu Lake offers more than just scenic beauty. Tourists can engage in activities such as yak rides and shop for local handicrafts and souvenirs near the lake. Lucky visitors might even catch a glimpse of a Himalayan black bear or a leopard in the surrounding area.

5. Manimahesh Lake, Himachal Pradesh

Nestled in the heart of Chamba district, Manimahesh Lake is another frozen gem, situated at an elevation of approximately 13,500 feet above sea level. This sacred lake holds deep religious significance for Hindus, is believed to be the divine abode of Lord Shiva, and is named after the peak Manimahesh.

Embraced by snow-capped peaks and rugged mountains, Manimahesh Lake is renowned for its breathtaking and serene landscapes. The 13-kilometre trek to the lake from the base camp at Hadsar takes visitors through lush green meadows, dense forests, and challenging terrains.

As winter sets in, bringing a drop in temperatures, the lake begins to freeze, and its surroundings are blanketed in snow. The transformed landscape becomes a captivating sight, drawing both tourists and devotees alike to witness the ethereal beauty of Manimahesh Lake during this season.

6. Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir

It would only be fair to mention this beauty when discussing frozen lakes. A widely popular tourist destination in Jammu and Kashmir, Dal Lake is a sight to behold in winter. The lake, with an average size of roughly 5 km in length and 1 km in width, is situated at an altitude of more than 5,000 feet.

During winter, Dal Lake can freeze, transforming the surroundings into a winter wonderland, providing a unique experience. The lake is also renowned for its houseboats and vibrant local life.

The Mughal gardens, including Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh, add to the charm of Dal Lake with their well-manicured lawns, vibrant flowerbeds, and historic architecture.

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7. Gurudongmar Lake, Sikkim

Another gem from the Northeastern states of India is Gurudongmar Lake, located near the border with China. It stands as one of the highest lakes in the world, situated at an altitude of approximately 17,800 feet above sea level.

Fed by glaciers, the lake serves as a source of streams for the Teesta River, which flows through Sikkim and West Bengal. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, Gurudongmar Lake remains partially frozen throughout the winter.

The lake holds sacred significance for Hindus, Buddhists and Sikhs. Legend has it that Guru Nanak visited the lake and blessed its waters, believed to possess healing properties. Another legend that goes around is that Guru Padmasambhava, on several requests from the locals who faced an acute shortage of water, touched a part of the lake with his walking stick blessing it to never freeze. To this day, that part of the lake remains unfrozen in peak winters.

If you are fortunate, you might spot some wildlife, as the region around Gurudongmar Lake is known for its alpine meadows and is home to various species — including the Himalayan blue sheep, yaks, and various exotic birds.

8. Sela Lake, Arunachal Pradesh

Located at an altitude of more than 13,000 feet above sea level, Sela Lake is one of the lesser-known gems in Arunachal Pradesh. Situated near the Sela Pass, the lake takes its name from this mountain pass.

Both Sela Pass and Sela Lake are integral parts of the route leading to the town of Tawang, renowned for its monasteries, natural beauty, and cultural significance.

During the summer months, the lake transforms into a stunning beauty with pristine blue waters set against the backdrop of towering mountains. However, come winter, Sela Lake dons a white blanket, remaining frozen for the majority of the winter season.

9. Pangong Tso, Ladakh

Another well-known destination in Ladakh, Pangong Tso is the kind of natural beauty that makes you feel alive. The lake is at a high altitude, approximately 14,270 feet above sea level in the Eastern Ladakh region near the Line of Actual Control (LAC) with China. The lake is known for its pristine blue waters that freeze during the winter giving a unique view of the landscape.

Pangong Tso is one of the highest saltwater lakes in the world. Its high altitude and the surrounding landscape contribute to the unique charm of the place. Make sure you pack warm clothes and keep an eye on restrictions, such as roadblocks due to heavy snowfalls, if you are planning a trip.

10. Suraj Tal, Himachal Pradesh

Suraj Tal, which translates to ‘Lake of the Sun’, sits at an elevation of approximately 16,040 feet above sea level, making it one of the highest lakes in India.

Located in the Himalayan region, specifically in the Lahaul and Spiti districts of Himachal Pradesh, the lake is situated on the Manali-Leh Highway, providing accessibility to travellers along this route.

Fed by the glaciers of the Baralacha La pass, Suraj Tal holds sacred significance for the locals. It is believed that taking a dip in its waters can cleanse one of their sins. The lake is also a frequented destination for trekkers and adventure enthusiasts as part of their journey along the Manali-Leh Highway.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

If you’re one like me, fret not!

The most obvious Christmas destinations may already be fully booked for the season. But there’s no need to panic — The Better India has got you covered. We’ve put together a list of offbeat destinations that won’t break the bank and are perfect for a quiet getaway during the festive weekend.

1. Lachung, Sikkim

India boasts some of the most stunning hill stations globally, and while many might rush to Mussoorie and Shimla for a snowy spectacle, we suggest you point your compass towards Sikkim this year — especially the enchanting Lachung village. While tourist hubs like Gangtok and Pelling might be buzzing with activity, Lachung offers a more serene escape for your weekend.

Nestled in North Sikkim, this quaint village sits at a breathtaking altitude of 9,600 feet above sea level. Renowned for its stunning views, this sleepy hamlet transforms into a winter wonderland when blanketed in snow. Lachung also serves as a gateway to various other attractions, including the picturesque Yumthang Valley and the mesmerising Zero Point.

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2. Dawki, Meghalaya

Venturing into another hilly paradise, a less-trodden gem of our country lies in Dawki, Meghalaya. While the conventional pick might be Shillong, we propose setting your sights on this charming town. Revered for its mild temperatures and breathtaking landscapes, Dwaki makes for a tranquil and less-crowded getaway.

Famous for the crystal-clear Umngot River and the iconic Dawki Bridge, you can revel in a delightful day of boating on one of the clearest rivers in the country. The atmosphere is more serene, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the local culture and engage with the residents without the bustling crowds typical during peak tourist seasons.

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3. Udupi, Karnataka

Just a few hours away from Bengaluru, Udupi is a perfect location if you want to spend your weekend near the sea. The place is close to the coastline of the Arabian Sea, and there are several beautiful beaches in the surrounding region that you can explore such as the viral Maravanthe Beach along with Malpe Beach, Delta Beach, Kaup Beach, Padukere Beach etc.

One of the most notable things to do while you’re there for Christmas is to enjoy the intermingling of cultures. Observe the local communities celebrate Christmas with local carols, customs and delicious food.

4. Landour, Uttarakhand

Nestled just a short drive from Mussoorie, this delightful hill station is your ticket to a tranquil escape from the buzz of the Queen of Hills — Mussoorie. A peaceful town graced with enchanting pine trees, it showcases sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Make your way to Sister’s Bazaar to soak in the old-world charm reminiscent of colonial times. And oh, do yourself a favour and indulge in the delights of the famed Landour Bakery, where the temptation of delicious carrot cakes, comforting hot chocolate, and views of pine trees converge for a truly delightful experience.

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5. Kalingpong, West Bengal 

Here’s another gem from the Northeast that’s bound to leave you spellbound. A splendid blend of delectable cuisine, chilly weather, and breathtaking landscapes, this hill station deserves a prime spot on your travel wishlist.

Just a 50 km drive from Darjeeling, this place is sprinkled with luxurious homestays to ensure your stay is nothing short of cosy. For a dose of local culture, make your way to the MacFarlane Church on Christmas morning. Built in 1870 by William MacFarlane, the first Scottish Missionary to visit Darjeeling and Kalimpong, it adds a touch of historical charm to your holiday experience.

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6. Durshet, Maharashtra

Durshet, a tranquil village nestled in the Sahyadri ranges and perched by the banks of the Amba River, is but a short drive away from Mumbai. A veritable paradise for those seeking a serene getaway, Durshet offers the chance to interact with butterflies and take a refreshing dip in the Amba River.

For the adventurer in you, a visit to the mountain forts of Sarasgad and Sudhagad, standing proud at an altitude of 490 metres in Pali township, is a must. These forts underwent meticulous renovation and restructuring under the Maratha King Shivaji, adding a touch of history to the scenic landscape.

7. Dzukou Valley, Nagaland

If you’re on the lookout for a hill station to explore in Nagaland, the Dzukou Valley stands out as a popular and picturesque destination. A hidden gem among tourists, this place deviates from the conventional amenities of a typical hill station, offering a perfect setting for those seeking a rustic experience.

Dzukou Valley, with its relative peace and less crowded ambience compared to some mainstream hill stations, is an ideal haven for nature lovers, trekkers, and anyone yearning for tranquillity.

8. Lolegaon, West Bengal

One of the most unexplored areas of West Bengal is Lolegaon, a tiny hamlet near Kalimpong, sitting at a height of 5,495 feet above sea level. The village’s elevated location in the Himalayan mountains contributes to its cool and refreshing climate, making it an appealing destination for those seeking a peaceful retreat in the lap of nature.

The altitude also provides stunning panoramic views of the surrounding hills and snow-capped peaks, adding to the charm of Lolegaon as a hill station.

9. Orchha, Madhya Pradesh 

A hidden gem with historical splendour and cultural significance, Orchha is nestled on the banks of the Betwa River. This quaint town boasts a rich heritage that transports visitors to a bygone era. The intricate carvings on the town’s temples stand as silent reminders of a rich culture and artistic legacy.

It is a perfect place if you’re looking for a serene getaway in Madhya Pradesh. Some of the must-visit places here include Jahangir Mahal, Ram Raja Temple, and Laxmi Narayan Temple. Each site unfolds a chapter of Orchha’s history and offers a glimpse into the artistic prowess that defines this charming town.

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10. Watlab, Kashmir

Our list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning a place dear to all of us — Kashmir. Watlab, situated in the Bandipora district, is renowned for its natural beauty and rests gracefully on the banks of the Jhelum River. Surrounded by hills and greenery, Watlab offers a serene and picturesque environment.

During the festive weekend, this place is likely to have fewer crowds, making it an ideal getaway for you. Some of the places that you can explore in and around Watlab are the charming Watlab Mosque, the scenic Jhelum River, and the nearby Arin village with its rustic charm.

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So which of these lesser-known places are you planning to visit this festive season?

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

The Goan native is rarely without an audience as he speaks of the journey that got him here. A stint of five years as a practising lawyer introduced Ferrao to the ugly side of developmental projects.

“The Earth’s resources are being exploited. I became deeply aware of how grave pollution was.” For someone who had spent the major portion of his childhood in the lap of nature, with the trees and insects for company, these environmental jeopardies were of great personal concern.

In 1996, Ferrao had had enough. He decided to quit the corporate world and pursue more creative motivations. And just like that, ‘Khaama Kethna’ is an attempt to bring back the lost magic of nature into urban settings.

But, it isn’t Ferrao’s first tryst with creating an eco-friendly property from the ground up. His first venture into this realm was a nature resort ‘Bhakti Kutir’ in Palolem, Goa. The 700 sq m property was once an abounding coconut grove. But time had taken its toll on the area.

“The traditional way of cultivation meant that all the trees had been cut down in undergrowth. As a result, the land had degraded. When we (my ex-wife and I) purchased the land, we focused on regenerating it by planting more native and indigenous trees. We then started an ecological, health and nature resort with eco-friendly structures built using bamboo, rice husk, and straw.”

To this day, Bhakti Kutir draws travellers to it with its eco-friendly facades. The main allure continues to be the cabanas and the star-studded skies at night.

In 2012 Ferrao withdrew from operations to channel his energies into another project that was later christened as ‘Khaama Kethna’.

Moving from the coast to inland

Tranquillity seems to be the theme of the day at this eco-village.

Something that Ferrao learned following his transition from a bustling corporate hustle to this slow-paced lifestyle was how living with less allowed humans to experience more. And every activity at the resort upholds this philosophy.

Nature lovers and trekkers are bound to have the time of their lives here. Being wrapped in the forested Agonda hills evokes the feeling of a jungle trip.

In fact, as Ferrao cautions, everyone at Khaama Kethna is reminded that they are guests in the wilderness, and not the other way round. “Therefore we must respect its serenity and natural rhythm,” he smiles.

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Frogs in the bathrooms and foliage in the bedrooms are but natural, he says, going on to explain how the site was once a degraded hillside. Despite this infamous popularity, Ferrao knew its potential for once being an area teeming with cashew plantations.

So, In 2005, after deciding to further his dreams of a sustainable life and buying the land on which Khaama Kethna now stands, he made it his mission to restore the land’s fertility.

How did he achieve this?

“I started by making biologically balanced organic living compost,” Ferrao shares, explaining that his primary focus was to revive the natural setting. Nourished by this compost, indigenous, native, medicinal and fruit trees were soon in bloom. “In addition to the trees, I began planting bushes, shrubs, grasses, vegetable plants and herbs.”

Today, handcrafted cottages, carpentry workshops, crafts centres, animal farms, wellness retreats and forested areas that dot the landscape of the ecovillage are a testament to his unwavering belief in the land.

A slice of paradise with your tea

When it came to housing, Ferrao was intent on replicating a jungle stay experience. Through a meticulous ideation process, he has ensured that every tree house and cottage is unique in design and handcrafted using natural materials.

A private garden terrace accompanies each tree house and the multi-bedroom eco treehouses sleep six people comfortably.

“Bamboo mats were the hero material during building,” he notes adding that the rest of the material used was recycled scrap — pillars, beams, rafters, window frames — that he sourced from the area.

He goes on to narrate these stories. “Over the years I have seen several old houses being demolished. I would collect and refurbish these building materials and furniture which were being discarded at the time and store them. When building Khaama Kethna, I utilised them.”

That being said, owing to how adaptive the structures are, they need continual care, maintenance and renewal.

“The process of construction has always been guided by organic growth,” Ferrao shares. “It is a self-sustaining project meaning each year more is completed or changed as more financial input becomes available. So in a way, it is still and always will be evolving.”

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Through every undertaking at Khaama Kethna, Ferrao’s overarching aim has been to demonstrate that it is possible to live a simple and minimalistic life.

With the idea of causing as little damage to the land as possible, Ferrao says, “Every cottage is designed to incorporate the trees and surrounding life forms of the jungle. Every space always allows nature to pass through and flow into it. This sends the message that we are not separate from nature but rather an integral part of it.”

And guests love this theory, calling the place “healing”, “one that stills the mind”, and “lives up to its promises”.

A particular favourite is the bathrooms that open to the heavens. But, look closely, and you will see that a perfectly thought-out system accompanies the design. The shower water drains into the garden where it recharges the water table and is used for the plants. The toilets, meanwhile, are earth closet style compost toilets, the product of which is then used to nourish the trees.

As you enter the bedrooms and admire the furniture, you’ll be fascinated to know that all of it has been made on-site and of upcycled material.

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Evenings at Khaama Kethna have an adventurous laziness about them. There is so much to do, but sitting in silence is probably the most cherished activity here.

You can choose to relax indoors or venture outdoors for a nice breezy evening walk around the property. As evening sets in and dinner is being prepared, it is fascinating to watch the organic produce going into the wood fire stove where local delicacies are cooked by the women of the area. And as you gorge on these, Ferrao will treat you to the lores of Goa and his escapades.

The ecovillage is after all his dream come true. But while the entire land is his pride, there is one spot that has his heart.

At the northern tip of the village, as the sun sets over Khaama Kethna, Ferrao can often be found relishing his solitude. And as he tells us, no amount of city luxuries could beat the view.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

The 36-year-old outdoor professional, Rency, is on a unique mission: a solo voyage to navigate the Ganga River in 100 days. This one-of-a-kind expedition relies solely on human-powered resources, including biking, kayaking, and walking.

Tackling the mammoth task of covering the Ganga, which spans over 2,600 km, Rency’s journey becomes even more inspiring when considering that he battles rheumatoid arthritis.

“I am racing against time as I am not sure for how long my body will be able to take such adventures,” he tells The Better India. 

Finding passion in lost dreams

Born and raised in Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, Rency had always been an outdoor enthusiast.

“I loved the outdoors and had nurtured only one dream all my life—to become an Air Force pilot,” he recalls.

For him, flying an aircraft was the ultimate dream, and he worked towards it for most of his young adult life. While in college, he was already an NCC Air Wing Cadet, flying the Microlight Aircraft (a small and lightweight aeroplane designed to be simple and easy to fly, often used for recreational purposes).

“The symptoms started to show in college. That is when my life changed drastically. Visits to hospitals and consultations turned out to be arthritis. Being diagnosed with such a disease at a young age can break or make your perspective on life,” he says.

Recalling the initial days of his diagnosis, he mentions that he was left completely crippled and bed bound. “I had lost the use of my left leg and there was a lot of muscle contraction which made it impossible for me to do anything,” he says. 

While aspiring to become a pilot and joining the Indian Air Force, Rency received medical advice to avoid physical activities.

“I was heartbroken. I didn’t know what to do with myself. Everyone emphasised that the Air Force wouldn’t accept someone with an illness like arthritis. It was a harsh reality, and it took me some time to accept the drastic change in my life,” he recalls.

Amidst the struggle with pain and mental agony, Rency lost the only dream he had ever nurtured. “It’s almost like restarting everything,” he says, acknowledging that “the symptoms can reoccur, and there is really no stopping this disease, only preventing.”

Despite the pain and the shattered dream, Rency decided to emerge stronger. “I had always loved being outdoors, and I refused to let my dream be shattered this way. I chose to learn light aircraft flying,” he adds.

“Coming from a middle-class family, and after completing various courses, I realised I was burdened with a lot of student loans. I had to do something,” he explains.

He initiated a startup in Bengaluru, which unfortunately had to close due to logistical problems. He then moved to Manali to establish his travel startup, Live360 Adventures.

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The startup gave wings to Rency’s outdoorsy spirit. “I don’t know when I might lose the functioning of another part of my body. I recently had an episode that left very little mobility in two of my fingers,” he shares. 

When Rency mentions a time crunch, he truly means it. “I had been on a motor expedition across the Ganga in 2015. Since then, I have felt this sense of urgency in my head to undertake this solo journey without the motors,” he adds.

Traversing the majestic Ganga

On November 4, 2023, Rency packed his bags and with a coordinating team of three, embarked on his adventure.

Twenty-five days into the journey, Rency is currently in Sangara, about 25 km downstream from the Narora barrage.

Reflecting on his adventure so far, he shares, “I started from Gaomukh, the starting point of Gangotri, and completed the trek in a single day. The next day, I began my cycling journey from Gangotri to Devprayag — the place where Alaknanda and Bhagirathi converge to form the Ganga.” 

Till Devprayag, Rency used a mountain bike and then switched to kayaking. 

“There are two types of kayaking — sea kayaking and white water kayaking. Given the Ganga’s strong currents, a small, more controllable kayak is used. The stretch from Devprayag to Rishikesh is a white-water section, and I completed it in three days,” he says.

There are two barrages in Haridwar and Rishikesh that the adventurer drove his mountain bike on. “After Haridwar, I switched back to kayaking. The waters are calmer, so I am sea kayaking here. Every night, I camp in a place accessible to the river by road,” he explains.

While the river has been rough and foggy with low visibility in the past two days, Rency anticipates that with better weather, he can finish the voyage within 100 days.

“Not to sound too confident, but if the weather is with me, I think the journey can be finished a few days early too,” he says. 

When discussing the challenges ahead, the only aspect that concerns Rency is the tidal activity of the river once it crosses the Farakka Barrage.

Close to the Bangladesh border, as the river approaches the sea, it experiences tidal activities. Navigating through this might pose a challenge, but Rency reassures, “My team is prepared for that.”

While alone on the river, admiring the majestic landscapes, Rency acknowledges that there have been moments when he questioned the purpose of the entire expedition.

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“I start to wonder why I signed up for this when the conditions become tough and painful. The river is so wide, with numerous channels, and suddenly you find yourself stuck alone in a sand bed,” he reflects.

“When I was first diagnosed with arthritis, I felt like I had lost something. It was no fault of mine how my life turned out. The thought that I will never lose in my life is my fuel when conditions get tough. It is said that ‘zeher hi zeher ko katata hai’ (The only antidote to poison is poison), and that is how I am approaching my pain. I will beat it with pain,” he declares.

“It’s easy for people facing similar conditions like mine to lose heart and stop living. I experienced that too for a while, but I want to convey that it is possible. Whatever you’re dreaming, if you push yourself enough, you can achieve it,” he adds.

If you wish to track Rency’s incredible journey, you can click here. 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

For senior citizens today, life really starts after retirement. After spending more than 30 years of their lives immersed in responsibilities, this is the time that they really start living for themselves. They are fulfilling their dreams, be it singing, dancing, starting a venture and travelling the world.

They are proving that retirement is, in fact, a new beginning. It’s a time to rediscover and follow your passion.

Here are five senior citizens who are travelling the world after 60:

1. Mala Honnatti, 70

The mountaineer and marathoner has scaled several peaks in her life; many as a senior citizen. The retired banker, well-versed in managing financial health, decided to focus on her physical health in her 30s. 

She started with some low-altitude Himalayan treks in 1984. When she wanted to step it up, she joined the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling, in 1986 and has climbed over a dozen mountains in India. She has summited Mt Stok Kangri, Mt Ladakhi, Mt Sitidhar, and Mt Kilimanjaro. She continues running marathons and going on difficult expeditions. 

In 2016, she started her own mountain expedition trips under ‘Maho Adventures’. This single woman lives life on her own terms and asserts, “This is my life and I will do what I want to do.”

2. Yogeshwar & Sushma Bhalla, 73 & 69

This couple’s journey began, quite literally in 1976. They began their married life on a bike to Srinagar for their honeymoon. Their first ride still remains unforgettable for the duo, as it gave them time to understand each other in an arranged marriage. 

47 years later, the couple from Delhi travelled the world together and covered long distances on their Royal Enfield Bullet. Yogeshwar calls his wife his navigator and motivator.

He retired early, at 58, to travel. They rode through Bhutan, Nepal, Leh and Ladakh. 

“That trip did wonders for our dwindling confidence. It pushed us to explore more,” he adds. 

They’ve visited over 22 countries, including Belgium, Bhutan, Dubai, France, Qatar, Rome, Singapore, England, Scotland, Turkey and Venice. 

Despite a knee replacement surgery in 2021, when doctors advised Yogeshwar to stop travelling, he worked on his physical fitness to continue what he loves. 

They are raring to go on several more adventures together and document their adventures on Facebook.

3. Molly Joy, 62

Molly runs a grocery store in Kerala to save for her trips across the globe. This Ernakulam resident dreamed of travelling the world as a child but unfortunately, she was unable to even go on school trips due to financial constraints.

Post marriage, she would travel across South India with her husband Joy and dream of international destinations she saw in magazines that she sold in their shop. After her husband’s death in 2004, she had more responsibilities as her children were studying and travelling took a backseat.

After they grew up, she started travelling again with her friends. When an opportunity for a Euro trip presented itself, Molly used her savings and travelled across Italy, France, Vatican, Switzerland and Germany. 

Since then, she has saved over Rs 10 lakh and travelled across 11 countries in the past decade. “Even though I still don’t have a great income, I spend what I earn for something that makes me the happiest,” she says.

After every trip, she comes back and works doubly hard at her store and starts planning and saving for her next trip.

“Travel gives me an amazing sense of freedom, courage and exposure. After every trip, instead of feeling exhausted, I feel reborn,” Molly says joyfully.

4. Amarjeet Singh Chawla, 64

He was bitten by the travel bug in 1979 when he met a backpacking couple from Holland. It was, however, only 40 years later that he was able to fulfil it, when he didn’t need his parents’ permission and was free of other responsibilities.

In July 2018, he set out on his Toyota Fortuner SUV from Delhi and went on 

an epic road trip, covering nearly 40,000 km across 33 countries. 

He also surprised his Holland friends on the trip and spent three to four months planning it. Since then, he has travelled across 87 countries by car and runs a Youtube and Instagram page called ‘The Turban Traveller’ where he documents his journeys.

He is an international road traveller, influencer, YouTuber & Road Trip Consultant today.

He says that ‘life starts after 60’.

5. Ravi Kishore Mallapragada & Sowdamini Mallapragada, 62 and 58

Ravi climbed a hill as a 6-year-old boy and has been chasing that high ever since. After moving to Saudi Arabia for work, weekends for the couple entailed travelling around the dunes and adventure sports. 

When the mathematics professor was thinking about what to do post retirement, he saw a YouTube video where a person shared his experience climbing Mount Everest. This was the cue for the 62-year-old. The couple took trekking classes and chose to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, which they heard was tougher than Everest. 

In August 2022, they climbed Gilman’s Point in Kilimanjaro, the highest single free-standing mountain above sea level in the world. Ravi credits his wife for this accomplishment. “Her willpower took me to the top,” says the proud husband.

They have visited more than 10 countries including Jordan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Japan, UAE, Egypt, Singapore, Thailand and Cambodia, and participated in adventure sports like skydiving, bungee jumping, scuba diving, paragliding, hot air balloon ride and submarine ride. Zip lining and bungee jumping in Nepal are next on their list.

His advice to youngsters busy running the rat race is, “Spare some time for your interests which will reward you with nothing but happiness. We all live for that feeling, right?” 

Edited by Padmashree Pande

But what if I told you that in 2024, there’s a chance you might get to indulge in short getaways almost every other month?

How is that possible, you ask? The key lies in some strategic planning and making the most of those precious long weekends.

“The State Government has unveiled a list of 25 public holidays, complemented by three additional holidays falling on second Saturdays and Sundays,” according to The Times of India report. Nine of these holidays conveniently align with either Mondays or Fridays, presenting us with the exciting prospect of enjoying at least nine extended weekends in 2024!

If you’re worried about finding out the dates and figuring out the best places to visit, fret not because The Better India has got you covered.

January

As the new year unfolds, you’ll be welcomed by an unexpected long weekend opportunity. With 31 December, 2021, falling on a Sunday and New Year’s Day on a Monday, consider taking Tuesday off to relish a brief yet refreshing mini-vacation.

To extend the joy, January brings two more extended weekends — with Makar Sankranti on a Monday (15 January) and Republic Day on a Friday (26 January).

For those inclined towards historical exploration, make this long weekend a captivating learning experience by visiting the Golden Triangle — Agra, Delhi, and Jaipur. These cities boast more favourable temperatures during January, complemented by clear skies and the delightful winter delicacies that the season brings.

On the other hand, if your heart yearns for a getaway amidst nature’s embrace, consider venturing to Alleppey in Kerala. Here, you can immerse yourself in the tranquillity of houseboats along the backwaters, relish the pleasant weather, and witness the breathtaking bloom of the landscape.

If you enjoy wildlife, then visiting Gir National Park on one of these extended weekends can be delightful. The weather, the air and clear days are perfect for watching the majestic Asiatic lions in the national park.

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March

In March 2024, there are two potential long weekends awaiting you as Holi falls on a Monday and Mahashivratri on a Friday. Why not take advantage of these two upcoming weekends and plan a small trip to Maravanthe, Karnataka?

Nestled along the Panvel-Eddapally highway, this village is a captivating 400 km drive from Bengaluru. What makes this journey truly special is the opportunity it provides to soak in the picturesque beauty of a river on one side and the vast expanse of the sea on the other.

Another place that you must add to your list is Barsana in Uttar Pradesh. Just a drive away from Mathura, Holi would be the best time to visit this small town famous for its ‘Lathmaar Holi’. Lathmaar Holi is famous for its distinctive tradition where women playfully beat men with sticks. It is believed to reenact the playful teasing between Lord Krishna and the gopis (milkmaids) of Barsana. Dipped in tradition and culture, the stay will surely be an unforgettable one.

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May

If your workplace generously provides a holiday on Buddha Purnima, which happens to fall on a Thursday, why not amplify the joy by taking a leave on Friday?

As the mercury begins its ascent, a mountain getaway might be just the thing you need. Lansdowne, a serene hill station in Uttarakhand, stands out as the perfect destination for those in search of tranquillity and natural beauty. In May, this hill station experiences a delightful climate with temperatures ranging from around 15 to 30 degrees Celsius.

Don’t forget to pack light woollens, as the temperature might dip during the night or on rainy days.

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June

With Bakri Eid falling on a Monday (17 June), there is another opportunity for you to convert this into an extended weekend by taking either Tuesday or Thursday off.

With almost half of 2024 gone, you might want to slow down and reflect on things. What better than a scenic hill station covered with white clouds and extraordinary landscapes? Jibhi, a scenic village in Himachal Pradesh is known for its pleasant weather and clear skies, making it an ideal destination for trekking, nature walks, and exploring nearby attractions.

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August

After a hectic July, August will certainly come as a welcomed relief, offering us two potential long weekends. If your company observes a holiday on Raksha Bandhan (19 August), consider taking Friday off from the previous week and relish a four-day extended weekend.

Additionally, Janmashtami falls on a Monday (26 August), providing another opportunity for a potential long weekend.

If you wish to enjoy the monsoon, then visit Dandeli in Karnataka — a serene town with lush greenery, dense forests, and the Kali river. The river comes alive in its full glory during the monsoons and is famous for its majestic views and rafting activities.

The town also has Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary where you can spot animals like black panthers, elephants, tigers, deer, and a variety of bird species.

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September

If your office observes a holiday on Onam, which falls on a Thursday in 2024, simply take leave on Friday, and voila, you have a perfect mini vacation.

Consider heading to Kerala to witness the Onam festivities. You can visit the week-long festivities — including cultural programmes, traditional dance forms like Kathakali and Mohiniyattam, and a grand procession called the Onam Parade in Thiruvananthapuram.

You can also visit Kochi to experience the famous Indira Gandhi Boat Race held during the Onam season.

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November

If you haven’t had the chance to fully enjoy Diwali holidays falling on the weekend this year, don’t worry! Diwali in 2024 is set to fall on a Friday. Simply take Thursday or Monday off, and you can relish a delightful four-day festive weekend.

With the winter fast approaching, you could utilise this weekend to spend a quiet getaway with your family. Head to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary to spot migratory birds that arrive at the beginning of winter. Also known as Keoladeo National Park, the place is a paradise for young minds and bird watchers.

While you’re in Bharatpur, you can also consider going for a short road trip to Fatehpur Sikri, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A historical city known for its well-preserved Mughal architecture, you can visit the Buland Darwaza and the Jama Masjid.

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(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

“Things took a turn for the worse at that point. I endured constant pain and found myself unable to move freely. From being a fun-loving and outgoing girl, I started relying on others for assistance,” she reflects in a conversation with The Better India.

Fast forward to 2023, and Parvinder is no longer the person she once was. She has transformed into a globetrotter, who has travelled solo to 59 countries — including Dubai, China, Australia and more — in her wheelchair.

Describing her life as the greatest adventure, she reflects on her journey and imparts tips, tricks, and lessons she learned from solo travelling as a person using a wheelchair.

‘Travel become a sign of my independence’

“When the symptoms [of rheumatoid arthritis] first surfaced, it was incredibly frightening. It began with my knees and jaw but progressed to affect my entire body,” she recalls.

Hailing from Mumbai, Parvinder was a sociable child. “I enjoyed engaging with people. I was highly extroverted and relished spending time outdoors. However, as the pain intensified, those very people became a source of fear. I remained vigilant to avoid any physical contact,” she shares.

The escalating pain and dependence on assistance started to enclose Parvinder in self-imposed isolation. The illness brought with it numerous doctor appointments and years of unending pain.

“My condition worsened and there was a time when I was confined to bed, not even able to switch sides,” she says.

During her darkest and most painful days, Parvinder vividly remembers that her mother’s unwavering faith in God was the driving force that kept her going. “Every day, my mother encouraged me to believe in God and trust in His work. Whether it was this steadfast faith or her sheer determination to motivate me, I did find some relief through Ayurvedic treatment,” she recounts.

While she remained dependent on a wheelchair for mobility, the relentless pain subsided. “Once I was free from that pain, my thoughts became clearer. I was determined to do whatever it took to turn my dreams into reality. It was my mother’s faith that had sustained me for so long; now, it was time to discover my own purpose,” she expresses.

And where did she find her purpose? In travelling!

It was a trip to Vaishno Devi with her friends that helped her realise that she too can travel. “That trip made me feel that there is a world out there which is open for me to explore. I decided not to let my condition or a wheelchair stop me from living my dream,” she says.

Following this, Parvinder embarked on a journey to Dubai alongside her sister. A significant turning point occurred when her cousin and her husband gifted her an automatic wheelchair.

This thoughtful gift not only instilled in her the confidence to navigate freely but also marked a transformative moment in her life. “Travelling makes me feel alive and also makes me feel independent,” she adds.

‘Be confident and trust the process’

“I would not say travelling when you’re in a wheelchair is easy, but it is not something that cannot be done,” says the solo traveller.

Recalling the difficulties she faced on her numerous trips across the world, she shares. “I was in Italy and I had booked a hotel for my stay. In prior research, I had spoken to the managers if the hotel was wheelchair accessible and they said that it was. However, when I reached the place, they told me that there were four to five steps that I would have to take.”

While it would be hard for her to climb the steps, she would have been able to do it with some help. “But the management said that I can’t stay here because it might cause inconvenience to their other guests,” she adds.

“I was breaking down while alone, not knowing what to do,” she says. “So I sought refuge in a Gurudwara until I could find an alternative place to stay.”

Looking back at the incident, Parvinder says that it was an experience that she needed. “Every adventure that I have been on in the past years has added to my life experiences. There is always something to learn from such incidents,” she says.

The incident in Italy helped her understand that It is very important to be 100 percent sure whether a hotel is wheelchair accessible.

“I now dedicate a lot of time to research before I book a place,” she says adding, “Such incidents only added to my confidence. I would always think ‘If I can survive this, then I can survive anything’,” she remarks.

Travelling in a wheelchair and on a budget

I do not come from a family of abundant resources. I work to pay off my expenses and fulfil my dreams. “My father wanted to make me an independent individual. He always supported me and helped me to travel with a budget,” she says.

For anyone who is suffering from an illness or is a wheelchair user, Parvinder has a few tips that can help you go a long way.

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“Have confidence in yourself. When someone is a wheelchair user, there tends to be a general stigma and pity associated with such people. However, understanding your capabilities, being self-aware of your limitations, and recognising what you can achieve is the key. It will empower you to break free from constraints,” she advises.

Another valuable piece of advice from Parvinder is to be open to accepting help. “Don’t hesitate to ask for assistance. While I understand that the world can be intimidating, there are always good people out there willing to help,” she emphasises.

Reflecting on her own experiences, Parvinder shares, “During my various trips, there were instances where I couldn’t find a road or needed assistance with my wheelchair. In those moments, there were always people willing to help. Some would go out of their way to assist. So, don’t be ashamed or afraid to ask for help.”

In terms of logistics, Parvinder stresses the importance of being prepared for various situations. “Understanding your body and its needs is crucial. Carry medicines and necessary equipment without fail,” she suggests.

Elaborating on her own travel preparations, she adds, “Before visiting a new country, I thoroughly examine every aspect — scrutinising the hotel, the country itself, and its wheelchair accessibility. It’s essential to call the hotel or homestay in advance to confirm if they are fully equipped to cater to the needs of a wheelchair user.”

“Ask questions, and ask lots of them, so that you know what you are getting yourself into. For budget-friendly accommodations, there are tons of homestays and Airbnb options that are disabled-friendly and easy on the pocket,” she explains.

According to Parvinder, thorough research about the place you are visiting can help you navigate various challenging situations and ensure you have a good time exploring a new place.

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While Parvinder has travelled to various countries, she still feels India can become more wheelchair accessible. “I would urge all the young people to raise your voice. Help people like me become more independent by making every public place wheelchair accessible. There are so many places in India that I have missed out on because they are not wheelchair accessible,” she shares.

The 54-year-old says she recently suffered a stroke, forcing her to hit pause on her travel plans. But she is getting better and slowly getting back to making new ones. “I have only covered one-fourth of the world; there are many places left. I am keeping my spirits high for the future,” says Parvinder.

You can follow her incredible journey here.

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

Armed with my thick glasses and a bottle of Rasna in hand, I would immerse myself in documentaries showcasing different parts of the world. Among them, my absolute favourite was watching documentaries about animals and people inhabiting the polar regions.

The harsh beauty of the Arctic and Antarctic, along with the animals that had evolved to survive these extreme environments, fascinated me. I was particularly intrigued by how people lived in Igloos, the traditional snow homes. My young mind was consistently captivated by the breathtaking blend of nature and science.

Living in an Igloo in India would have been a dream come true for me. If you share that sentiment and have always yearned to experience life in a snowy home, worry not, because I’ve got you covered.

In Himachal Pradesh, there’s a gentleman turning this dream into reality. Vinod Bodh, the founder of Igloo Sethan Village has been making Igloo stays possible right here in India.

“I wanted to do something different for the people that employ the people from my village. This is where Igloo Sethan Village was born,” he tells The Better India. 

The Igloo Man of Himachal

Vinod, much like us, harboured a fascination with Igloos and the way Eskimos lived, but the compelling need to generate an income in his village propelled him to embark on the journey of crafting these snow structures.

“The location is just over 15 km from Manali, in close proximity to Hampta Pass. Tourism was the primary source of livelihood in this area. While we had a summer home there for our family retreats, the construction of highways and overall development in 2005 posed challenges for tourists to access the region,” he explains.

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“After 2010, things began to stabilise, but the influx of tourists witnessed a decline. It wasn’t until 2015 that we observed a resurgence in the number of visitors,” he notes.

In 2016, Vinod made the decision to initiate a homestay business. “But I always wanted to do something different to attract more people. I started to brainstorm ideas, and that’s when I thought of making Igloos,” he says.

The ideal temperature for an Igloo to be made is -20 degrees Celsius. “The temperatures at Manali are not ideal for an Igloo to survive, so I decided to make them in Sethan Village where the temperatures go as low as -12 degrees,” he explains.

While Vinod was excited about making them, the challenge was a lack of knowledge. “No one really knew how to make them back then; I was not sure how to proceed. My initial plan was to make a steel frame for the Igloo, but in my research, I found that the metal would melt the snow,” he says.

It was in 2016 when he met an Australian man who had settled in the area. “He had spent some time in Alaska and knew the way an Igloo is made. He gave us an idea of how the science behind the construction works,” he says.

“Furthermore, we used the internet extensively to understand the process. I also used YouTube to see how people live in them and how sustainable they are with respect to the climate of India,” he says.

By 2017, the Igloos were up and ready to use. “I named them Igloo Sethan Village because I felt like it was a tribute to my childhood summer home and a tribute to the people of the village,” he says.

Live like the eskimos 

Speaking about the initial reaction of the people, Vinod recalls, “People were elated. There’s a fascination with snow, and they responded very well to the Igloos. Of course, they had a few doubts, and some would ask me if it would fall. I would sometimes explain to them the construction process to assure them that they are safe.”

Talking about the process of making an Igloo, Vinod explains, “In terms of time, construction and the size of the Igloo, it all depends on the ice. The snow that falls in December is powder snow and it does not stick easily. We have to water it to make it stick and it takes longer for us to make the Igloo,” he says. 

“While the snow in the later days is thicker and more stable, it only takes a day to complete the construction,” he says.

“The shape of the Igloo is oval because it distributes the weight into equal parts. As the temperature drops, the ice crystals begin to cement. Eventually, they become so crystallised that the structure becomes rock solid,” he adds.

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Up and running since 2017, Vinod has hosted hundreds of guests. “I plan getaways for the guests. We offer them good food and activities such as a bonfire, and ice skating, and we also encourage the guests to explore the nearby woods to enjoy the snow,” he says.

The business runs from the end of December to March’s first week when the temperatures start to rise. 

“The days start to get hotter and we stop accepting guests. There have been a lot of inquiries so far for this year too but we are unsure of when the first snow will fall,” he says, adding that he is excited to host new guests this year. 

If you wish to stay in an Igloo, you can reach Vinod here.

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

1. Tentgram 

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When engineer friends Mohammad Thaha Paloli, Jethin Krishna and Fazil would get a weekend break during their college days, they would immediately plan a hike. So, when it came to ideating for a startup, they knew what they wanted to do. 

‘Tentgram’ launched in 2017 was started with the idea of hosting travellers at a campsite. In this way, guests would be surrounded by nature. The idea was loved and soon their campsites grew in number. 

Today, travellers have several options to choose from – like the Dal Lake boat rides at sunset, and trips through the floating vegetable markets or kayaking through the backwaters of Alleppey.

2. Planet Trotter 

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If you’re hiking with Nikhil Pratap Singh, founder of ‘Planet Trotter’, falling in love with experiential travel is inevitable.

The travel-for-impact social venture is giving a whole new meaning to travel and bucket lists through their projects in Uttarakhand. The unique model couples adventure and rural development initiatives in a way that fosters a bond between the city folk and the rural communities. 

One of the most popular is their ‘Valley of River’ expedition in Champawat, Uttarakhand. During the six-day expedition, trekkers must embark on a 17 km walk across the valley while experiencing local life.   

3. Curtain Call Adventures 

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The Northeast is a world of unexplored activities, notes Assam’s Julie Kagti. But its potential often goes unrecognised. After a fulfilling stint in the textile industry, Julie started ‘Curtain Call Adventures’ which specialises in packages that unearth the beauties of the Northeast. 

While she encourages travellers to explore the place’s tourist sights, there is also a keen focus on inking the right partnerships with the locals. 

Ask Julie her intention behind this and she answers, “Tourists come to the Northeast and watch waterfalls, rhinos and sunsets. But no one visits the local villages or walks into the forests.”

4. Map My Stories 

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Shreyas, the founder of Map My Stories — a community-centric, immersive travel experience curation project — found his calling in slow travel. Today he has replicated this model with a unique spin. And his guests love it. 

Evidence of this fact lies in the numerous groups Shreyas caters to throughout the year. The best part about slow travel he says is how one intentionally spends time in a certain location. “People completely immerse themselves in its local culture, communities and surrounding landscape instead of covering too many locations to check off bucket lists.”

The customised trips curated by Shreyas include a host of handpicked experiences such as exploring Sikkim’s royal heritage and Arunachal Pradesh’s wonders. 

5. NotOnMap 

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The travel startup has two overarching aims — to generate alternative livelihoods for people and minimise unskilled migration from smaller villages. This would greatly benefit local communities, the founders Kumar Anubhav, Sandeep Kumar and Manuj Sharma, thought. It would allow them to engage with people who want to live and travel sustainably.

The idea was born when travel buddies Anubhav and Sandeep observed how livelihoods in scenic locations in rural India were disintegrating. “They were heavily dependent on agriculture, and those who did not engage in it, had to migrate,” says Anubhav. 

The idea of NotOnMap is to let travellers explore rural India while living with the locals. This ‘once-in-a-lifetime experience’ also boosts the economy of the village.  

6. Oasis India Camp 

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Colonel Mahendra Mohan Prakash Singh’s favourite moments of his army days were being amidst nature and interacting with different cultures. So, when he retired after a 24-year stint in the army, he wanted to give people the same experience. 

‘Oasis India Camp’ enables tourists from across the world to revel in the magic of Jaisalmer’s desert. 

Guests can choose to unwind under the starlit skies, partake in adventure sports, learn pottery from the locals, or even attend a local traditional Rajasthani cooking session.

Edited by Padmashree Pande

My father, who spent most of his young adult life in Mussoorie, would often narrate how magical the experience is. “There is a certain music in the air when the snow starts to fall.” Lost in his vivid narration, my mother would pull me out of my wonderland by saying, “Only the most fortunate ones get to witness it.”

Well, I must be the ‘most fortunate’ because, after nearly four to five failed attempts of trying to be at the right hill station at the wrong time or missing it by just a week, I was finally able to witness the beauty of snow. 

If you’ve never experienced the magic of fresh snow or if you’ve been yearning to revisit that feeling, The Better India has compiled a list of homestays across the country where you can truly immerse yourself in the beauty of snow.

1. Nabokov’s Cottage, Jibhi

Located just an 8 km drive away from Jibhi market, this charming cottage is the homestay of your dreams. When you peer out of your room’s window, you’re greeted by a host of breathtakingly beautiful pine trees and blue skies. The enchanting outdoors become even more swoon-worthy, especially when it starts to snow, most likely in January.

Apart from offering magnificent views, this place provides guests with the opportunity to take a stroll through the nearby forest. With amenities like WiFi, a bonfire, and the best part – the flexibility to bring along your furry friends, this homestay is a haven. Hosted by Daleep, who guides you through walks in the surrounding apple and pear orchards, as well as wheat and maize fields.

Price: Rs 5,999 per night for the cottage

Book your stay here. 

2. Pinewood Sunrise, Kasauli

Another cosy homestay that offers you a sense of peace and quiet is Pinewood Sunrise. There is no wifi or television here but you know what will keep you busy — the enchanting view of Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas and the perfume of pine trees. 

The place has cosy rooms with the host’s souvenirs from all around the world. The property also has a beautiful terrace that gives a great view of the Himalayas. There is also a fully-equipped kitchen where you can cook your favourite dishes. Kasauli typically experiences snow in the months of late December and January. 

Price: Rs 12,000 per night

You can book your stay here. 

3. Osla Homestay, Har Ki Dun

Nestled in the tranquil valley of Har Ki Dun, this homestay is a perfect escape from your daily routine. The dwelling is a quintessential pahadi home, constructed primarily from wood. Surrounded by nature, the homestay transforms into a winter wonderland from December to February.

The peak snow season in the valley spans from January to early April. With panoramic views of the snow capped Himalayas and the alpine vegetation, the homestay offers a serene retreat. Accommodating up to four guests in their 2BHK sets, it features a fully-equipped kitchen for your convenience.

Price: Rs 1000 and above for double occupancy

Contact 941090792 to book your stay. 

4. Bayul Homestay, Lachung 

Lachung in Sikkim stands as one of India’s lesser-explored snow destinations. Perched at an altitude of 9,600 feet, this picturesque locale dons a snowy blanket from November to February. Amidst this winter wonderland, Bayul Homestay emerges as a top choice for accommodation.

Managed by Pema Wangyal and his wife, Rinchen, the homestay offers not only a cosy retreat but also a taste of local hospitality. Indulge in locally-brewed wine and homemade delicacies while soaking in the majestic views of the snow-capped mountain peaks from their courtyard.

Pricing: Rs 1800 per night and above. 

To secure your stay, contact 74774 16331

5. Saroga Woods, Saroga

If you’re seeking a genuine Himalayan getaway, consider this sustainable and eco-friendly homestay in Saroga, a quaint village nestled in Himachal Pradesh. This tranquil village is dusted with snow in December and January, offering an ideal setting for a short retreat.

Operated by Anuradha and Kartik Budhraja, the homestay aims to provide guests with an authentic experience. Perched at an altitude of 8,000 feet above sea level, the property boasts a stunning view of the Himalayas on one side and the Satluj River on the other—truly a paradise.

Price: Rs 30,000 and above.

Call them at 9816464404 to book your stay.

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6. Taara House, Manali

Picture yourself sipping tea in a dining room with a glass ceiling and expansive windows that unveil majestic views of the Himalayas and the pine forest. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it? Well, staying at Taara House can turn this dream into reality.

Perched on a 6,600ft hilltop in Manali, this chic two-bedroom homestay is crafted from Burma teak, English oak, and pine wood. The accommodation offers the enchanting experience of sky gazing through its glass ceiling, complemented by delightful meals prepared by the in-house cook. During the months of December and January, the place transforms into a snow paradise.

Price: Rs 17,000 and above

Book your stay here. 

7. House of Bahu, Bahu

Situated in the Banjar region of Himachal Pradesh, Bahu is a quaint village that provides a serene and pollution-free environment. Perched atop a hill, the Kathkuni-style cottage offers a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape.

This charming homestay is an ideal choice if you wish to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a few days. It provides the perfect setting for a tranquil and peaceful snow-cation as the place is pet-friendly, and offers activities like yoga and meditation.

Price: Rs 4000 and above

Book your stay here. 

8. The Mirage at Andretta, Dharamshala 

Set against the backdrop of the majestic Dhauladhar range and the Shivalik Hills in Dharamshala, this homestay was established 75 years ago by theatre personality, Norah Richards. The place is adorned with snow.

Featuring three cottages, each with bedrooms adorned with curios, the homestay includes a living area, dining space, a reading room, and a kitchenette. Over the past few years, it has become a favourite among art, theatre, and yoga enthusiasts. During your stay here, you can immerse yourself in the essence of simple living and enjoy the chilling breeze of the city. 

Price: Rs 26,000 for the entire cottage.

Book your stay here. 

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So, which winter getaway are you planning to book your stay at? 

(Edited by Padmashree Pande)

One would swear that time ticks at a slower pace here and the sky is definitely a brighter blue. That this place — with its fields of Italian basil, mulberries, stevia, and rose apples — is just an hour’s drive from the big city is almost unbelievable.   

“This transformation was not an overnight one,” points out Keyur Barad (38) and one-half of the entrepreneur brother duo who spearheaded this project. He clarifies that it took him and his brother Nishit (41) 15 long years of “toil, sweat, time, savings and sheer perseverance” to create this. 

Across the three-acre estate in Dahisar village, Manor taluka, the style mutates widely. While the farm and the surrounding food forest have earthy notes to them, the farmstay’s facade of wood, cane, ceramic, glass, metal and stone is in a luxurious contrast. But for the Barad brothers, the entire project is rooted in family. Everything else is secondary. 

“Our story is not just about Nishit and me, but about two brothers across two generations,” Keyur says, referring to his father and uncle who laid the roots of this project in 2007. “My father (Girdhar) bought the land for my uncle who wanted to turn to nature and leave his business and city life behind.”  

When Girdhar Barad stumbled upon the land, all it had was a single tamarind tree in the middle of  murum (a type of laterite red stone which easily disintegrates). 

But, from that state of almost being a hermit’s recluse to that of being one for travellers from across the country, the land’s purpose has remained unchanged. 

The journey from one tamarind tree to a booming forest 

Now, the age-old murum has since been replaced by 140 varieties of fruit trees, vegetables, spices, herbs, and flowers. These 800-odd trees, says Keyur, comprise five varieties of mangoes, four varieties of papayas from Indonesia and Thailand, seven varieties of citrus, five varieties of bananas and chikoos.

The renowned Medziphema pineapples from Nagaland, along with mulberries, starfruit, rose and custard apples also call this farmland their home. An array of herbs like lemongrass, bayleaf, Italian Basil, stevia, peppermint and seasonal flowers line the garden too.

When Girdhar initially conceptualised the space, it was a simple village home. Nothing too dramatic. Letting us in on those days, he says, “The sole tamarind tree of the land became a roof over our heads when we started constructing a home on this untouched land.” 

Meanwhile, Keyur and Nishit were following their own professional trajectories while watching their father’s fondness for the land. The duo wanted to help and make the land viable, more abundant. But neither of us were farmers, notes Keyur. 

He adds that everything then on was trial and error. “We faced many setbacks such as wasted seasons, failed crops, unseasonal rains, cyclones, and extreme heat. Working with nature meant surrendering to its whims and fancies.” 

A conscious decision the brothers had made was to stay away from chemical fertilisers right from the beginning. 

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Was it tough? “Yes, it was,” says Keyur, adding, “However, we discovered that when you nurture the soil year after year, the flavour, the fragrance and the yield of the produce improve exponentially. Nature always reciprocates kindness.”

Their very first plants were ladies fingers and bottle gourds, whose seeds they planted in the red soil that they had layered the land with. Loads of mulch (fallen leaves, cowdung, etc) served as the fertiliser. And voila! They were surprised to see the land giving back in no time. 

Keyur seems almost like a proud farmer today as he shares stories about the land. But at what point did the farmstay come to be? “Ironically, the COVID-19 lockdown was what inspired us,” he answers.    

A 3-day trip becomes a gateway into a bigger project  

At the onset of the lockdown, Nishit narrates how he and his family packed their clothes for three days and headed off to the farm, thinking that it would be a small trip, only to end up spending three months there. 

Keyur pitches in, “We had so much space to move around, and we were cut off from the world. We even bartered rice for vegetables grown on the farm! After three months, we realised that what we had was gold.”  

The hamlet, which was once occupied by Girdhar’s brother, is now converted into the improved residential property on the farm. The Barad brothers say that all they did was extend the bedrooms, add a 70-ft verandah and make harmonious cosmetic changes to marry the inside and the outside.

“We started with the construction of the bungalow in the 2022 monsoons. Among delays in receiving material due to the rains, we also experienced frequent electricity cuts. I spent a lot of time overseeing the site then,” says Nishit. 

But after three years of rigorous effort and toil, it was worth it. Though accustomed to luxuries such as air conditioners and geysers back in Mumbai, the brothers shared how they managed very well without these and had a good time all the same. 

“We then wanted to share this experience with others,” notes Nishit, adding, “Especially with our friends who told us how they were frustrated with the urban life, the lack of connection with nature, and how their kids were missing out on the joys of getting dirty in soil.” 

The Chlorophyll Estate, they decided, would be a much-needed escape from the daily grind. They welcomed their first guests in April 2023. 

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When the view matches the experience  

Mornings on the farm are glorious. And as Nishit opens a large window to a wide expanse of greenery, it is almost like watching a scene from a movie unfold. As the sunlight competes with a bird song to enter in, he shares that it is surreal to think that he has a part in creating this soothing sanctuary. 

The trajectory of their plans was influenced by their wanting to preserve the village-like feel of the homestay. The subdued colour palette, which consists of browns, beiges, whites and blacks, is intentional so as to let the surrounding farm have its moment. Keyur credits his wife Shriya Nagi, and Mumbai-based architect Priyank Mehta of Studio PM, with the entire ideation and designing process. 

Shriya, who heads her own creative design firm, says “serenity” was the guiding light while she curated the estate’s interiors. “I gravitated towards a minimalist approach to ensure the space feels breathable and uncluttered.” 

The curtains and cutlery too reflect these ideals. “I wanted to go for pieces that, at first glance, embody minimalism but upon closer look, reveal intricate patterns and designs. It’s these fine details, I believe, that elevate a guest’s experience from the ordinary to the extraordinary.” 

Hearing his daughter-in-law speak of her design ethos, Girdhar “feels over the moon”. He is proud of the way his sons and daughter-in-law came together to fulfil a dream he once had. 

“We started off with planting trees here and there way back in 2007 and today, the estate is a green oasis. From whichever corner you look around, myriad shades of green will fill your eyes,” he adds. 

Afternoons spent under its shade while overseeing the developments will remain some of Girdhar’s fondest memories. “Today I look back to those humble days. The tamarind tree still stands and is our ‘Tree of Life.’” 

The 72-year-old is firm that no matter how many more changes the land sees, this tree and its shade will forever be his favourite spot. “That won’t change till my last day,” he affirms with a smile. 

Edited by Padmashree Pande.

It would be a shame not to fall in love with this scene.  

And on one such road trip in 1994, Major Durga Das and his wife Jyoti Jasol, succumbed to the same fate. Fondly called ‘Major’, he once served in the Indian Army. 

“We had always wanted to buy a home in Udaipur,” shares Jyoti (57), who belongs to the royal ancestral line of the Rathores of Marwar-Jodhpur. Major (66), meanwhile, is a descendant of the royal ancestral lines of The House of Bassi-Udaipur. 

One look at the scenery, the couple recalls, was all it took to convince them to buy this 2.5 acre land. Jyoti says, “My husband was still in the Army, and I was the manager of the Textile Gallery at the City Palace. But we both had a nagging thought that our lives were not being used creatively.” 

“So after 13 years in the Army, my husband left the service and we decided to start developing this land we had bought,” she adds. 

She adds that the name ‘Devra’, by which they christened this plot, is an ode to the local name given to tribal temples. 

Speaking about his decision to quit the Army, Major says his guiding belief has always centred around serving both the nation and the environment. “I saw this (Devra) as an opportunity to cultivate a generation that is acutely aware of their surroundings.” 

‘What is stopping you from making the dream come true?’

When they first began working out of this land, they started floriculture with the idea of supplying flowers to the Taj Palace, Udaipur. However, what they estimated to be a booming business did not work out. They had hit a dead end. 

So the couple moved to Delhi in 1997, where their baby girl was born, and Jyoti spent the next two years being a doting mother. But the dream she harboured of running a homestay in Udaipur had no intention of being silenced. “In 1999, I decided there was no better time than the present to make it happen. I returned to the land and this time I wasn’t going to let go of the plan.” 

In the years leading up to 2004, when Devra officially started welcoming guests, Jyoti would make frequent trips between Delhi, where her husband and child were, and Udaipur, where her dream was. 

“Those years were beautiful,” she says. “It was a journey of inking relationships with the craftsmen of the city, since architects and civil engineers were tough to find at the time. I got a local person, Shivji, on board, and he helped build the structure into what it is today.” 

To date, Shivji’s wife, Rupa Bai (an honorific to describe a woman), is an integral part of the staff at Devra. She has witnessed the evolution of both the homestay, and the city, through these years and calls it a privilege. 

“The progress of our family, and of Devra, is inseparable. We have watched our children grow alongside the construction of the house. The memories of their early years are woven into every brick and corner that my husband assembled,” adds Rupa Bai.

Likewise, Jyoti has enjoyed Rupa Bai’s company among the many other beautiful connections she cemented. “The journey taught me to be patient and take things as they come. Everything happens in its own space and time.”

The first guests at the housewarming lunch in 2004 included the couple’s parents and all the craftsmen who had been a part of their journey. “I have the assurance that even if I want to make 10 more houses, these people will support me,” Jyoti adds, laughing. Such is the strength of their bond. 

The majesty of Udaipur’s lands comes alive with this property

What started with three rooms is now a 10-bedroom heritage homestay made of Rajasthani stone, bang in the middle of lush fields and farms. However, this wasn’t the state of the land in 1994. 

Jyoti recalls, “When we visited the land for the first time all we saw was cactus. The land did not support the growth of anything else.” However, a solution to transform the land into a viable farm came in the form of the Pichola Lake in Udaipur. “We started bringing in soil from the lake,” she adds. While Jyoti succeeded in doing this at the time, today it wouldn’t be an option.

In 2016, the Rajasthan Lake Protection and Conservation Authority passed a proposal that put three lakes in Udaipur under a prohibited zone, thus curbing desilting or soil extraction activities in them. Pichola Lake was one of these. 

“20 years ago, the ban that now exists over removing soil from the lake was not there. So, when the lake would dry up in summer up to its middle, a lot of good quality loamy soil would be left behind. This soil, filled with minerals and nutrients, is perfect for growing plants. We started bringing it to the land to grow our first trees.”

Almost every dish prepared at the homestay is from the fresh produce grown on the land. “Wheat, seasonal vegetables, jowar, methi, avlas, berries, jamuns, guavas, chikoos, neem, tamarind, date… You name it and we grow it,” shares Jyoti proudly stating that there are trees of every variety here and adding they harvest 400 kg of chikoos every year along with other fruits. 

Keeping up with traditional practices

The traditional chulha cooking method (cooking in an earthen pot to retain the moisture and aroma of the food) that the family has been following for 25 years now lends an authentic flavour to the food. 

So whether it is lal maas (traditional Rajasthani red meat curry), bhuta ki subji (corn vegetable), tarbuz ki subji (a vegetable made with watermelon crust), mint lauki (bottle gourd and mint juice), and makki (corn) and bajra chulha rotis made with love by Rupa Bai, every dish has earthy notes to it. 

What’s more is that you could learn to cook this feast yourself at the Heritage Cooking Class hosted by Jyoti. Credit her for being a ‘masterchef’ and she brushes it off by saying, “The farming techniques and fertilisers used on the land are the real heroes of this cooking.” 

The permaculture method followed at Devra ensures crop diversity, while improving soil fertility and increasing water conservation. Add to that Jyoti’s ‘secret’ homemade fertilisers — onion peels in water and eggshells with bananas — and it is no surprise that the produce here tastes so wonderful. 

The couple is extremely sensitive to the culture around and every guest is taken to the neighbouring villages where they can share goodies and treats with the village children. Jyoti says it makes for a nice “exchange programme” and her husband seconds this. “Both my wife and I deliberately chose to reside here not merely as outsiders but as active members of the community.”

He adds, “Creating Devra has provided me with invaluable insights into the practice of persistence, collaboration, and the art of building something of significance from scratch.” 

But even as the couple prides themselves on this luxurious dream homestay in a city that parallels its beauty, they say they couldn’t have done it themselves. “It takes a village. But God is good and dreams come true,” Jyoti says with a smile as she bustles off to ensure her guests are being well-fed. 

Edited by Padmashree Pande.

For the majority of us whose weekends involve endless scrolling on social media, while constantly on the lookout for new things to do and explore, here’s a suggestion: Why not try a heritage walk? Call them story trails, history walks or culture trips, they have come to be the most popular way to rediscover the city where you grew up. 

These heritage walks in India merge the past and present to create experiences that urge you to get out of bed and take a walk down the bylanes of history. 

1. Pan India   

Conducted by Sahapedia — an open online resource on the arts, cultures and heritage of India — these walks are a window into the country’s legacy. They are conducted across cities like Mumbai, Agra, Varanasi, and Shillong, among others, and offer a glimpse of the cultural nuances that shape the history of these regions.

For instance, the Kasera Oli trail organised in Gwalior introduces walkers to the generations of artisans engaged in making iron utensils while the trip to the International Dolls Museum in Chandigarh explores the roots of how gender came to be associated with different toys. 

Check out the walks here. 

2. Delhi 

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The city is a history buff’s paradise. And Enroute Indian History’s morning walks, digital walks and even a specially-curated walk for women at night, celebrates it. The intention behind the women’s special walk was to “create a more inclusive culture where women can enjoy city lights without being hounded by doubts and questions”, mentions the platform.

The group comprising art explorers, heritage mappers and subject matter experts is giving a new spin to the way history is perceived by making it exciting. Some of the trails include a trip to Chandni Chowk and a night stroll at the Safdarjung Tomb. 

Check out the walks here.

3. Lucknow 

Around the 1780s, pockets of Lucknow, such as Husainabad and Daliganj, were inhabited by chefs. In time, these pockets came to be known as ‘Bawarchi Tola’ (a colony of chefs) and remain popular to date for the fare of meaty delicacies they put out. Goat meat, kebabs, taftans and koftas amass a huge fan following every evening.

The Lucknow City Tour conducted by Tornos India allows walkers to discover this gastronomic experience while also introducing them to the Kaiserbagh Palace Complex, the areas of the city that were under siege during the 1850s, and Ayodhya — the birthplace of Lord Rama. 

Check out the walks here. 

4. Mumbai 

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If steaming hot kulhad chai with accompanying crispy pakodas is all it takes to lure you out of the house on weekends, Nikhil Mahashur’s Walkitecture has got it covered. The heritage escapades take walkers through the city, exploring Colaba, South Mumbai and more.

There is never a dull moment as Nikhil’s anecdotes about the city will make you fall in love with Mumbai once again. And as promised, there will be stops at iconic cafes and restaurants along the way, ensuring you are well-fed.  

Check out the walks here.

5. Jaipur 

“A global sum up on everything that is Jaipur” is how Jaipur World Heritage describes itself.

The routes earmarked for the heritage walks include some of the most interesting points of the city — such as Sawai Man Singh Town Hall, where vernacular design is influenced by European trends; the step-wells of Jaipur also known as bavdis; and the Jhalana Leopard Safari, India’s first leopard reserve.

Check out the walks here. 

6. Kolkata

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Are you someone who cannot take history at face value? Do you need to know the story behind every nook and the legacy behind every lane? If yes, then it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that not only are the heritage walks conducted by Calcutta Walks iconic but also the team organising it.

The walk includes some of the most notable names part of redesigning the Calcutta Bungalow; from the 1920s townhouse it was to its more modern form. Choose from their wide range of experiences — ‘Cook as the Bongs do’ cooking tour, the ‘Black Town Walk’ or the trip to Dalhousie Square, which introduces you to British Calcutta.

Check out the walks here.

7. Hyderabad 

The most fascinating part of the city is its cultural and religious diaspora that coexist. Any native would second this claim. And the culinary landscape brimming with so many different flavours is a result of this. A heritage walk conducted by Hyderabad Magic lets people soak in everything the city holds whilst exploring the many layers of the city’s culture.

Through the Charminar Precinct Walk, the Shahi tombs, and the City Crafts tour, you will be exposed to a different side of Hyderabad — one where history has been untouched. 

Check out the walks here.

8. Bengaluru by Foot  

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The history of Bengaluru has remained unmediated over time. There is a sense of nostalgia that envelopes anyone who sets foot here, and the heritage walks organised here attempt to capture it. Of the host of walks conducted by Bengaluru by Foot, the most popular one is the Basavanagudi Darshan Heritage Walk, which begins from a tower in Basavanagudi that once served as a lookout post. 

“Then, we move onto a temple which is incidentally named after a bull that used to rampage through the peanut fields here, centuries ago,” reads the site. 

Their other walks include the Malleswaram Darshan Heritage Walk which explores old Bengaluru, and the walks through Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, the iconic Russell market, and the villages where the Malgudi Houses stand. 

Check out the walks here. 

Edited by Padmashree Pande

The bungalow, first built in 1904, has witnessed quite the evolution. Right from the city being an isolated spot on the map to now being a hub of tourism and adventure, Woodway has seen history unfold right in front of its eyes. 

And Susmitha and Shreedev couldn’t be prouder. 

“Our intention with Woodway was always to put Chikmagalur on the map,” says Shreedev, a fifth-generation coffee planter, whose father was the third owner of the estate. 

Recounting the journey of starting the homestay to The Better India, the couple shares in rich details the backstory of this house, its heritage, and the wonderful memories it leaves its patrons with. 

How the estate came to be

Situated right in the lap of the glorious Western Ghats, Shreedev shares that the main draw at Woodway is the heritage and history associated with it. Built in the classic Gothic architectural style, one feels the magic right upon entering through its doors. 

“A British gentleman owned the property,” explains Shreedev. “While he had initially constructed a bungalow on the highest point of the land, and planned on living in it, the lack of water forced him to move lower down on the land and build a smaller house. Today, that bungalow is Woodway Estate, where the gentleman would entertain guests, host officers, among others.” 

The story goes that after India’s independence from British Rule in 1947, the estate was sold to an Indian from whom Shreedev’s father later purchased it in 1975. 

Turning heritage into a home

Shreedev was working in Bengaluru in 2000 when he met Susmitha, an MBA graduate. The two fell in love, got married, and moved back to Chikmagalur, in a home 7 km from the Woodway estate. 

The ravages of time were evident on Woodway. It had been locked for a year-and-a-half and the unpredictable climate of the state had taken its toll on the home. “It was starting to crumble. The Mangalore tiles and mud walls were starting to chip away. When we saw it after all these years, we could tell it had seen much damage,” shares Susmitha.  

A tough call awaited the couple. Should they restore the home, furnish it or leave it as is? But the sentimental value of the home compelled them to choose the first option. 

“And we’re so glad we did it,” she says. 

A simple idea taking roots

While the couple decided to restore the place, they hadn’t thought of converting it into a homestay. The inspiration came after Susmitha read an article in 2000 about the emergence of ‘homestay culture’ in Coorg. 

“Then why not Chikmagalur?” she thought. The city boasted of forests, waterfalls, and beautiful grasslands, all against the backdrop of the luscious Western Ghats. The couple wanted the city to be known on the world-map.

Recounting their very first experience of hosting people, they say it was New Year’s Eve in 2002 that proved to be the turning point of their story. Intent on helping their friends find a getaway where they could ring in the new year in style, Susmitha and Shreedev offered them their very own recently-revamped home. 

The three days that the couple’s friends spent at Woodway were the loveliest, to say the least. This was encouraging news for the couple who had long since ruminated on the idea of welcoming guests into the home. 

Today, Woodway Heritage Bungalow is almost always booked to capacity and those who leave its premises do so with a promise to return.  

The birth of a heritage getaway 

Numerous homestays — both legal and illegal — dot the landscape of the Western Ghats today, but the couple was intent on making theirs in accordance with rules and legal sanctions. They spent the next three years in talks with the tourism board of the state. They also visited tourism fairs across India to learn firsthand how to set up a homestay and everything else it entailed.  

“We wanted to do it the right way,” says Shreedev. “Whenever we spoke to people about what we were trying to do, we never marketed Woodway. We marketed Chikmagalur.” 

And it paid off. He wanted city folks to experience the magic of nature and the healing powers of solitude.  

What it takes to run the estate

Rubbishing the usual assumption that coffee planters lead luxurious lives, Shreedev says that it is not that simple or rosy. 

“Yes, our quality of life is very good but there is a lot that goes into it. Farming on plantations is hard. Managing 250 acres of land is tough. And that is the side that few see,” he says. 

But every night after a tedious and laborious day at the plantations, Shreedev returns home with freshly-harvested coffee beans — that the guests wait eagerly for — and a deep sense of satisfaction. The plantations are where he belongs, he says. 

Surrounded by the plantations, Woodway, with its six fully-furnished rooms replete with modern amenities that complement the old-world charm, also houses a kitchen garden. The couple started working on their passion project in 2000, fixing the roof, electrical lines and painting, while preserving the original look and feel of the home. Shreedev gives the credit of overseeing the restoration to Susmitha.

“Most of the furniture is from the original house,” she notes. “We use brass vessels that were used for cooking back in the day. Everything is designed around taking the guests back a 100 years, yet feeling luxurious in the same moment.” 

For anyone who thinks this is the main draw at Woodway, it gets better. The food is a completely different magic in itself. Susmitha says that the secret lies in their kitchen garden, from where they source around 70 percent of their total produce. 

“Mother Nature provides us with colocasia, mushrooms, aubergines, jackfruits, horse gram, turmeric leaves, pomelo, red rice, pepper and more,” she says. 

A traditional meal at Woodway includes akki roti (a flatbread made with rice flour, spices and herbs), kai kadubu (coconut rice dumplings), urali kattu (a Karnataka speciality made with horse gram in spicy coconut gravy) and sevige kaihaalu (a sweet coconut milk side dish). 

Adding that as he sees so many people now starting homestays, Shreedev says it is crucial to first understand nature before doing so. “You need to take in what the hills are telling you before you dive into this venture,” he says. 

On this remarkable journey commercially since 2005, the couple reiterates that for them Woodway Estate has never been a structure, but rather a “living thing” that has grown with them through the years.

“Would we have done it any other way?” Shreedev thinks aloud to himself for a moment. “Definitely not,” he says with a smile. 

Edited by Padmashree Pande

As avid travellers, they wanted to change this notion and give wings to other mothers to live their travel dreams. The two dentists and bloggers met on Instagram in 2019 and formed a deep friendship. While discussing their recent travels, they realised that not everyone gets opportunities like them to explore. 

“After giving birth, everyone tends to forget about the mother and focuses solely on the child. We want to prioritise the mother during the retreat. While we do cater to both the mother and child, we want to ensure the mother’s needs are not overlooked,” says Nikita.

To help other mothers, they started ‘Travel with Kids (India)’ in 2021, a travel group for mothers and their children. 

The first mother and children trip they planned together was to Puducherry in October 2021, which was sold out in two days. Since then, they have planned 20 such trips across five destinations — Puducherry, Coonoor, Varkala, Goa and Mysuru — and have amassed over 75,000 followers on Instagram. They have also planned all-women’s trips to Lakshadweep, Andaman and Puducherry.

Their trips cater to both children and mothers.

Want to travel with your child or plan a trip for your wife and child? Watch this video to learn more:

Edited by Divya Sethu

The culmination of this love is his venture ‘Meen Bagh Homes’ that he started in 2017 as a step towards making eco travel possible. The sustainable property offers city folk a chance to live in a “typical Himachali home”. It is surrounded by fruit orchards and farms that spread out for miles, all immersed in the glow cast by the setting sun silhouetted against the Himachal skies.

Post-COVID, there has been a stark increase in the number of homestays emerging in the state owing to people starting to prioritise cosy settings, homecooked food, and the experience of living like the locals. As an official told Tribune India, the current number of homestays in Himachal registered with the tourism department has crossed the 2,000 mark as of December 2019.

In the face of such stiff competition, Sanjay has found a sweet spot between luxury and authenticity. How has he accomplished this? “By learning from the locals themselves,” he says.

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From Shimla to Delhi and back

As any pahadi native will tell you, the draw of a fancy city life pales in comparison to the homeliness of the hills. This was the case with Sanjay too. A childhood spent in a boarding school in Shimla and summer vacations spent in his family orchards — were some of his fondest memories. He carried them with him even later on in life as he travelled the world as a journalist and writer.

Based in Delhi for work, Sanjay dearly missed the hills and the calm that came with them. Fast-paced city life was not his cup of tea — a realisation that dawned on him after spending a few years in the national capital.

“Delhi has a way of spitting you out after a while,” he figured. Today in retrospect, Sanjay says, “I believe if people have an option of doing something in the place where they hail from, they should. There is no point in moving into the city like the masses. You will only be adding to the pollution, traffic and commotion.”

It is precisely this thought that shaped his journey of starting Meena Bagh Homes on his ancestral plot of land in Himachal.

Another thing that gave impetus to Sanjay’s burning desire to return to the hills was the craving to be in proximity to nature. So, in 2017, he returned to his home in Himachal and interestingly, was met with a surprising turn of events there.

Sanjay lets us in on a backstory that has its roots 70 years ago. “My grandfather had built a building in the same area where the now famous apple belt of Himachal is located. While the orchards continued to bloom, the building had been in a dilapidated state for a few years now. My father wanted to bring it down and in its stead build a more modern house.”

It was at this juncture of deciding what to do with the property that Sanjay reached the scene and proposed an interesting plan. “The structure built by my grandfather was in the traditional kumaoni style and I thought it would be a draw for tourists. My parents were unsure of this potential that I saw in the house as Ratnari is not a touristy place, to begin with, but more of an off-beat location.”

He adds that after much debate, “I ended up persuading them to let me experiment.”

Getting set to work on a dream

The journey of setting up Meena Bagh Homes was rooted in the learnings that Sanjay had gathered through his travels.

For instance, on a trip to Finland where he visited the Arctic Circle, Sanjay recounts feeling chilly and shivering. Despite the dipping temperatures outside, the homes were surprisingly warm and cosy, without any heaters! Perplexed, Sanjay asked the locals how they managed this feat.

“Insulation,” they told me, says Sanjay. “This allowed heat to stay within the home and keep it warm.” He was quick to draw comparisons between this model and the ones that existed back home in Shimla. “In Himachal, 99 percent of the homes are not insulated and rely on firewood and electricity for heating. If only insulation were used, we could stop the heat from percolating and escaping outside.”

So when it came to his passion project, Sanjay decided he would follow sensible and sustainable styles that existed the world over.

When he began to work on their two Meena Bagh properties — one in Ratari and another in Shimla, the first aspect that Sanjay focused on was the walls that held the structure together. “I built around the desolate walls using kath kuni architecture. It is a traditional technique that uses alternating layers of wood and stone masonry, held in place without using mortar. Our ancestors knew of this concept.”

To this, he adds. “Walls are part of the architectural history of the place. You see the cultural elements around it.”

When Sanjay undertook the task of transforming his ancestral home into a sustainable homestay, he says the intent behind it was to integrate the Himchali touch in every corner. “I wanted everything to reflect a story.”

Today, Meena Bagh Homes pride itself on its judicious and sustainable use of recycled wood that Sanjay has sourced from a myriad of places. Right from waste wood that people keep aside to use for barbeques to wood collected from factories and mills. Time and again, the wood has come to the rescue and the panelling, flooring and tables at Meena Bagh reflect its beauty. 

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An anecdote he shares is of his wood collecting phase when he was intrigued by the number of old heritage British architecture buildings — a common sight in Shimla — that were being razed to the ground to make space for newer structures.

One significant structure that was being demolished was a century-old girls’ college in Shimla. “It was around the same time that I was looking for wood to build two new cottages at Meena Bagh Homes.” The wood found a new home while Sanjay found what he calls “textured beauty”.

A few other modifications that Sanjay brought into the homestay was the addition of bathrooms, which were well insulated so that guests who had travelled long hours to reach the homestay could have a hot bath. While a common myth in Himachal is that water is a luxury, Sanjay’s view on this is different.

“People believe water is a luxury because they don’t harvest it.” He adds that his harvestation unit has a capacity of two lakh litres of water gratis the abundant rainfall they receive in the state.

The rainfall also serves another purpose as Sanjay points to his blooming kitchen garden. Filled with the usual tomatoes, potatoes, herbs, spice plants, peas, lettuce, and the more exotic raspberries, strawberries, apricots, and plums, the garden is Sanjay’s very own paradise on earth.

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His mindfulness for nature reflects here too, as he explains how he went to lengths to ensure the garden was sustainable in a true sense and not just on paper.

“When you are away from the city and in off-beat locations how does one source a produce like broccoli? The answer would be from Shimla, which perhaps gets it from Delhi, which perhaps gets it from Hyderabad, which gets it from..?”

“How is the process sustainable?”

Intrigued by how people these days are simply labelling practices as sustainable without ensuring they actually are, Sanjay decided to digress from the “organic farming” model, which focuses on monoculture and resorts to permaculture instead.

This allows him to have an abundance of several different produce, thus ensuring he is sourcing maximum from his own land instead of relying on the market which promises “sustainability”. 

Alim Chandani, a guest who visited Meena Bagh Homes in July 2021 says, “The best part about the place is the little details in everything. It has the warmth of feeling right at home along with delicious homemade food.” The rooms are priced at Rs 3,900 onwards.

If you thought all the reasons above were solid enough to make you want to come here on your next vacation, you’re wrong. We’ve saved the best for last.

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Sanjay who has been an astronomy aficionado throughout his life invested in a telescope (which is said to be the largest private telescope that one can own). He did this soon after he discovered that the skies in Ratnari rank two on the Bortle Scale (a nine-level numeric scale that measures the night sky’s brightness).

Guests have a great time watching Jupiter, Saturn and even nebulae through the telescope on clear nights.

And while they are at it, guiding them through the process and enjoying it as much as them is Sanjay, the travel journalist who is now living the dreams he would once pen down.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

Growing up in a boarding school in Himachal Pradesh, the Colonel was no stranger to hiking and camping. He’d often marvel at nature in all its beauty and wonder, and this love only grew when the Colonel joined the Army in 1980.

“Being in the cavalry unit, our training used to take place in the desert. Since 1983 I had been on the western border of India, where our winter training would happen. But I still recall how we’d take a three-day break for the Jaisalmer Desert Festival. It was a wonderful time.” 

When he retired in 2003, an idea began to take shape in his mind. He wanted to introduce people to the side of nature and culture that he had become familiar with through the years. So when his Army life was over, there wasn’t a question of what he wanted to do next. “A part of me already knew.” 

The oasis in the desert 

Today, the culmination of that idea is the Oasis India Camps based in Jaisalmer, which attempts to give its guests an unmatched camping experience in the heart of the desert. As guests unwind under the starlit sky in the heart of the dunes, immersing themselves in the local life of Jaisalmer Colonel Mahendra’s heart is full. 

When Colonel Mahendra began picking out a place where he wanted to see this project come to fruition, the desert was his first choice. “The vast expanse of sand dunes has always held a fascination for me. And this is where I wanted to start the camping experience.” 

He started with two camps, and now has a total of 143 dispersed across the desert for guests to experience a stay that is as luxurious as it is traditional. 

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There are memories galore that the Colonel recounts as he talks about the camping experience. “One of the memories I treasure is the sandstorms of Rajasthan. I remember one New Year’s Eve during the camp a sandstorm struck and everyone was holding on for dear life to anything in sight. By the end of the storm, my blazer and tie were a brown tinge. But despite the storm, we managed to have a grand affair that night.” 

A bucket list of adventure

The Colonel notes that the package is tailored to give guests the “ultimate desert experience”. “The camps are situated right opposite sunset point and guests have a field time watching the sunset from the dunes. There is a camel ride that they can enjoy too. After a traditional welcome is given to them by the locals, high tea is organised wherein the snacks are Rajasthani delicacies.” 

As the cultural evening progresses, guests are treated to Rajasthani folk dances, live musical performances by local artists and a buffet dinner. 

Living in the desert means adventure is in every corner. The packages also include safaris and adventure sports such as parasailing and biking. Locals in the desert enjoy having the guests come watch them as they cook, engage in pottery and more. 

One of the most popular attractions at Oasis India Camps is the camel wool-making session. As the locals spin the wool, guests can watch and even partake in the activity. In the evenings, when the weather is cooler, guests are taken to the border posts of Longewala, where India and Pakistan fought the 1971 war. 

“There are numerous watch posts in the desert to observe the surrounding wildlife,” shares Colonel Mahendra. But what guests are really here for — the grand finale, if you will — is the Jaisalmer Desert Festival, which is a whirlwind of colour and excitement. 

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A festival that beckons everyone 

The month of February is more beautiful in the Sam Dunes of the Thar Desert than it is anywhere else in the world. Anyone who has witnessed the Jaisalmer Desert Festival will testify to this. Also called the Maru Mahotsav, this festival is a platform to showcase the cultural prowess of the state through dance, music, sporting events and art. 

Throughout the three days, guests are spoilt for choice when it comes to food and activities. Puppet shows, folk dances, polo matches, handicraft markets, dune bashing (driving over sand dunes in a sports vehicle), sightseeing through Jaisalmer, and even competitions that award people for having the longest moustaches — you can experience it all. 

Meanwhile, Colonel Mahendra is excited as the next chapter of his life promises to be as fulfilling as the first. “The armed forces was a beautiful chapter in itself.” 

He also recalls, “We had normal tents with no facilities or attached toilets, etc. Today I have realised that people come from a different perspective where they want luxury, and so the camps have now changed from their original versions into luxury resorts.”

He adds that being a part of this beautiful camping experience in the desert also means that he does not miss his Army life so much. 

“I spend some of my time in Jodhpur, where I am based, and the rest of my time at the camps in Jaisalmer. This is the dream.” 

Edited by Divya Sethu

As a new mother, I know I have these doubts. And I felt most comforted when I spoke to other mothers who shared similar experiences. If a simple coffee with a friend going through the same phase felt relaxing, imagine how wonderful it would be to go on a trip together, just mothers and their kids!

Thinking about it brings a smile to my face, and two mothers Dr Saakshi Gulati (38) and Dr Nikita Mathur (34), are making it come true. Dentists by profession, both are avid travellers. When they became mothers four and a half years ago, people told them: ‘You can’t travel once you have a child’. But they were determined to change the narrative.

Saakshi’s first trip post-motherhood was to Mahabalipuram with her then three-month-old daughter. They enjoyed it so much that the couple took their daughter to Nainital and Jim Corbett National Park when she turned five months old.

Whereas, Nikita, who stays in Bengaluru, took her older son to Mysuru when he was three months old. Her younger son, who is five months old, has already been to Turkey.

“I’ve been travel blogging for eight years. After I had a child, people told me that it would be very difficult to travel. Some even said that you can’t travel with a baby. I knew that it couldn’t be true. After the initial three months, which were tough, we started travelling slowly. We had such a blast,” says Chennai-based Saakshi, who is a teacher at a dental college.

That cherished female friendship

Both bloggers met on Instagram in 2019 and got chatting. With a common profession, children of the same age, and a shared love for travel as well as the Montessori philosophy, the friendship was instant.

“We would discuss a lot about varied topics. One day, we were speaking about how there are so many travel groups for women, solo travellers, senior citizens, couples, etc, but nothing for mothers and kids,” says Saakshi.

As a result, they began discussing the idea of starting a travel group for mothers and their children, which led to the birth of ‘Travel with Kids (India)’ in 2021.

The first mother and children trip they planned together was to Puducherry in October 2021. “We planned the first trip to Puducherry as I am very familiar with the place. We posted the trip details on our Instagram page and were sold out in two days. We took six moms and their children with us, and everyone had a great time,” shares Saakshi.

The response since has been immense. With over 75,000 followers on Instagram today, the duo have planned 20 such trips across five destinations — Puducherry, Coonoor, Varkala, Goa and Mysuru. They have also planned all-women’s trips to Lakshadweep, Andaman and Puducherry.

Why should kids have all the fun?

Armed with full-time jobs, Saakshi and Nikita do all the planning on weekends, when they also carry out recces of new locations for their next adventure. Their main goal is to empower mothers and help them come out of their comfort zones while giving their children a lot of new experiences.

“After giving birth, everyone tends to forget about the mother and focuses solely on the child. We want to prioritise the mother during the retreat. While we do cater to both the mother and child, we want to ensure the mother’s needs are not overlooked,” says Nikita, who is a full-time blogger now.

Generally, the trips are planned for two nights and three days, where the children can have fun while the mothers unwind. So far, their curated experiences have included farm-to-table dining, a mud bath in Goa, a sound garden in Puducherry, a crocodile bank, cooking classes, and dining by the beach.

The USP of their venture is that one of the two founders is always present on the trip. They personally visit and explore the locations beforehand, along with their families, before planning it for others. They mostly book homestays or boutique hotels with kitchenettes.

The trips are usually priced around Rs 20,000–Rs 25,000, and each mother is given a separate room with her child/children.

“First, we form a WhatsApp group after people book the trip. We interact initially to understand the needs and eating habits of the moms and children, accommodating any special requirements through a detailed form. We also arrange Zoom calls for the moms to get to know each other,” says Saakshi.

They have had mothers from Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai, Delhi, Jaipur, Kochi and Kolkata join them on their trips so far. They are now working on going international next and currently planning some trips to North India.

Deepika, who travelled with her seven-year-old son to Puducherry with Travel With Kids (India) says that they both had a fabulous time. “The entire trip was meticulously planned. On the way from Chennai to Pondicherry, we had a home-cooked meal which was made of ingredients straight from the farm. It was the first time that I had such food. Kiaan also enjoyed the crocodile bank, the cycle rickshaw drive, and the whole trip in general. I made a great friend with a fellow mom during the trip,” says Deepika.

A safe haven for mothers

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The duo say that they are joined by a lot of single mothers on the trips. “We are a supportive community of like-minded mothers, providing a non-judgemental space. Motherhood brings changes to all of us, and sometimes we may forget to prioritise ourselves. Many moms lose confidence in travelling alone with their kids. We want mothers to realise that they can still travel, albeit differently,” says Nikita.

According to Nikita and Saakshi, some of the mothers who went on their trips have bonded so well that they now meet up regularly. “We have all had similar experiences. We just need someone to talk to who has been through the same. That’s why everyone bonds so well,” Nikita adds.

They want mothers across the country to travel with their children.

With a few tweaks, it’s manageable, they say.

“I’ve been to places which aren’t considered ‘kid-friendly’ like Reunion Island, Morocco and Egypt. My daughter enjoyed it. Kids will always find a way to entertain themselves. You don’t need to always go to zoos or parks. It’s about the sensory experience of being in a new place,” says Saakshi.

“First I travelled solo, then with my husband whose interests are very different. Now my children’s interests are different. You just have to cater to the children’s needs as they can’t manage their interests themselves. So you have to do it for them. But in this process, you get to see the world through their eyes, which is simply amazing. It’s different, but I wouldn’t like to exchange it for anything,” smiles Nikita.

They add, “Don’t let motherhood become a barrier in pursuing your dreams. Believe in yourself, and sometimes, make yourself a priority. Don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t travel or do anything you love after having a child. Take that plunge.”

To plan trips with the duo, you can contact them at @travelwithkids_india on Instagram.

Edited by Pranita Bhat; All photos courtesy: Dr Saakshi Gulati and Dr Nikita Mathur.

“People enjoy seeing us at work.” Binu’s thrill at having an audience is clear. She goes on, “We feel happy to show them our pottery skills. Some come forward and try their hands at it, and some others take pictures. Some offer us a token of money for showing them our art.”

This time, it is not a random group that has stumbled upon Binu’s craft. It is part of a curated Northeast tour that promises a detailed exploration opportunity of its hidden arts. This is one of many such packages curated by Julie Kagti, a designer from Assam, in an endeavour to put these hidden crafts on the map.

The 52-year-old is the founder of Curtain Call Adventures, an experiential travel platform curating packages for people wanting to explore the Northeast. She tells The Better India how vacationers usually fall into two groups — those looking for the familiar holiday experience, sightseeing, tropical beaches and sands, and the other lot wanting to take the road less travelled.

Personally, she identified with the latter.

‘The Northeast is more than its waterfalls’

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Two significant childhood events contributed to this love. With her roots in Digboi, Assam, hours spent amid the lush tea plantations meant Julie grew up harbouring a fond love for nature. While the outdoors held a certain magical draw, at home, she’d attentively watch her grandmother weave. So when it was time to dive into the corporate world, it came as no surprise when she chose design.

Twenty-five years in the textile industry in Mumbai and Bengaluru shaped Julie’s journey significantly. But it was only in 2015 when she had kids that she recalls feeling a sense of deeper purpose.

“Having loved the Northeast so much, I would travel with my kids there every winter and trace down the different crafts, weaving patterns, etc. But through the years, I noticed that the region was changing and crafts were getting diluted. Indigenous people were moving out as they found jobs in cities and tradition was dying.”

As the region’s traditional crafts were beginning to mutate, Julie was driven by an afflatus to introduce her kids to this world before they completely disappeared. The seed was sown for Curtain Call Adventures.

In Julie’s Words, “I wanted people to be able to witness the traditional way of life in the Northeast regions before the curtain comes down on them.”

There are opportunities galore at Curtain Call Adventures, which was launched in 2017.

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Guests can explore the Forest of Deity in Meghalaya — an untouched sacred grove spanning 78 hectares of land; the Sepahijala Sanctuary in Tripura — home to leopards; or sip a cup of green smoky tea in Assam in the town of Margherita (named after the Italian queen also synonymous with the pizza). These are some of the numerous experiential packages curated by Julie.

A major part of her work is inking the right partnerships with the locals in the Northeast so that both city folk, as well as these artisans, can benefit from the packages.

“A lot of people wanting to visit the Northeast would ask me to put them in touch with travel agents,” says a bemused Julie. “Here they would be taken to waterfalls, to watch rhinos and sunsets and other touristy things. But I wondered why no one was including visits to the local villages or walks into the forests.”

Today she says ‘immersive experiences’ have become a keyword with people looking beyond resorts and beaches, into cultural horizons. Alongside building a platform that encouraged experiences under this gamut, Julie says a core aim was also to highlight and encourage rural development in these places.

“Curtain Call Adventures makes this possible. A keystone of the tour package is the opportunity to live in homestays, take part in weaving demonstrations, language classes by the locals, cooking classes, boat rides, etc. We promote rural economy all the way,” she notes.

As Julie points out, “When people mention sustainability, for me it is sustainable when it is possible at a drastic level. It is not just a way of survival but rather a way of life.”

What’s in it for you?

“None of my guests do what I have not done first,” says Julie who spent the major part of April going deep into the villages of Arunachal Pradesh in an attempt to curate a rustic trail for her guests here. “This is essentially for people who are not really trekkers but want to participate in forest walks. I take my kids here too so they can be a part of the experience as I am curating.”

She adds that every activity at Curtain Call Adventures is either tried and tested by her or an expert before it is made available to guests. The platform is now expanding its sights to include packages outside of the Northeast too with their tours in North Kerala.

But for Julie, the real highlight moments are those spent in the company of her guests. “My most cherished memory was that of a tour organised for a family who were celebrating one of their people’s 80th birthday. There were people of mixed ages in the group. As they enjoyed the local Nepalese meal organised for them, their happiness was evident,” she recalls.

Born with a love for the Northeastern crafts and having devoted over two decades to design, Julie emphasises how she fuses this in the curated tours. “In all my trips, there is always a segment to engage the guests with the local crafts of the village. For these people, it is still a way of life, and I want to bring out that aspect.”

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While some seasons witness more footfall than others, Curtain Call Adventures sees a steady inflow of tourists wanting to immerse themselves in the lifestyle of the Northeast. If you are looking to reach out to them for your next trip, there’s a lot of excitement in store.

Stay in a colonial tea estate bungalow in Assam; visit the famous Jonbeel Mela — a three-day indigenous fair operated through a barter system; and cruise down the mighty Brahmaputra river with its 19 bordering wildlife sanctuaries; or spend a day interacting with the tribes of Mishing and connecting with their culture.

For culture enthusiasts, there are specifically curated tours around the festivals of the Northeast, including but not limited to:

The Silk n Dye Festival in December at Kaziranga — where natural dyeing and traditional silk rearing are promoted by providing silk weavers with a platform to showcase their products.

Magh Bihu in January — where the people of Assam feast together with newly harvested rice and traditional sweetmeats made of coconut, jaggery and sesame seeds called pitha and laru.

The open-air Brahmaputra Beach Festival in January — where the indigenous culture of the state is celebrated through traditional sports, cultural events and performances.

The central focus, as Julie maintains, has and will always be the local people and empowering them. They echo her happiness. Rita Payang from Citadarchuk village loves showcasing her handloom work to tourists when they come to visit. “When tourists visit our home and like the food we serve, we feel very happy and satisfied. And when they buy our weaving products, we are quite benefited. The one or two pennies that we earn as profit serves the hard work of our weavers,” she shares.

Forest guide Ritu Dole says engaging with the city people is always a two-way experience. “I can learn a lot of new things from them when they share their experiences with us. So we enjoy showing them the forest with a lot of interactions and sharing thoughts. At the end of the day, whatever amount we receive serves us as our daily wages.”

While these testimonials tell one side of the story, the guests share how amazing their experiences have been. But the woman at the helm, Julie, says there are miles to go still as she pushes for the empowerment of the tribes of the Northeast by addressing their social issues.

As the sun sets over the glorious region with its hills, vales, and colourfully dotted landscapes, it beckons the travellers to come and be one with the magic.

Edited by Pranita Bhat

You can now undertake every touristy escapade you’re looking for whilst having your baby experience it all. We’ve put together a list of homestays across the country which not only go the extra mile to welcome pets but make the trip fun for them! What are you waiting for? Go ahead and book! 

1. Casa Cottage, Bengaluru 

The Indo-French couple who manage Casa Cottage have a delightful story about the English heritage home for every guest who walks through their doors. It is also one of the few pet-friendly homestays in the metropolitan. The property was originally built in 1915 and later revamped by the couple in 1999. 

Whilst you are here, your pet will have ample space to run around not just through the homestay, but also through the expanse of the neighbouring botanical gardens. 

Address: Post Office, 2, Clapham Street, behind Richmond Town, Richmond Town, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560025

Contact: 098440 19710

Price: Rs 3,850/night onwards

2. Himachal Heritage Village, Palampur

Often termed ‘the crown of the tea gardens of the Kangra Valley’, Palampur’s beauty is personified in the pine forests and majestic mountains that lie at its core. One of the major draws of this oasis of beauty — and one that your furry friend is sure to enjoy — is the Dhauladhar mountain ranges that allow for trekking and hiking. 

A platter of activities suited to you and your pet awaits with safaris, village walks and a beautiful uncluttered landscape. 

Address: Thala Rd, Kandi, Palampur, Thala Warla, Himachal Pradesh 176061

Contact: 098167 99960

Price: Rs 4,000/night onwards

3. Ben’s Homestay, Kochi

If our furry friends could speak and were to tell us one of the high-ranking places on their bucket lists, Kochi would certainly claim the spot. The expanse of fields, agricultural paradises and miles of green being the major draws. 

So if you’re looking for a place they’d enjoy, we suggest booking a stay at Ben’s Homestay in Kochi. Benny and Anju play the perfect hosts to their guests and the fiesta they put out on the table is too good! The family’s tryst with prawn farming for over a century now results in platters of seafood at every meal. 

Address: Benny Xavier, Kuttikal House , Kothad P.O.,Cochin-27, Kerala 682027

Contact: 093492 57232

Price: Rs 3,696/night onwards

4. Mohraan Farms, Maharashtra 

With food forests, permaculture and natural farming within reach, there is so much natural beauty brimming at the Mohraan farms. As the owner, Sameer Adhikari tells us, “Mohraan is a green oasis where hundreds of plants, insects, birds, animals, butterflies, odonates and innumerable other microorganisms are living in harmony,” assuring that your pet will have as much of a blast as you will. 

Owing to its proximity to the glorious Sahyadri mountains, there is ample space to cycle, trek and hike with your pet!

Address: Mohraan Farms Village: Sakurli, Tal, Shahapur, Maharashtra 421601

Contact: 099305 46235

Price: Rs 5,000/night onwards

5. The Den Corbett, Uttarakhand 

At the start, The Den Corbett makes it clear that pets are the main guests in their space. “Your four-legged buddies will feel right at home. Given its size and special pet space, our premium accommodations are excellent for pet parents,” they say on their website. 

While here, make the most of your time by having breakfast by the Kosi River, experiencing the traditional Kumaon culture and food, strolling through the organic vegetable farm and spending time birding!

Address: Reserve Forest, Ranikhet Rd, Kumeriya, Chilkiya Range, Uttarakhand 244715

Contact: 097566 07850

Price: Rs 9,000/night onwards

6. Devra, Udaipur  

With numerous nooks and corners that offer you an escape to read that unfinished book, listen to that playlist or take a walk with your pet, Devra in Udaipur is relaxation in the realest sense. Feel like royalty as your hosts Major Durga Das (ex-Indian Army), and his wife Jyoti Jasol — descendants of the royal ancestral lines of The House of Bassi-Udaipur — treat you to lores of the cultures that have existed here for years. 

While you binge on appetising Rajasthani cuisine, your pet has a five-acre plot of lush green to play in! 

Address: Sisarma, Bujra, Road, Kalarohi, Rajasthan 313001

Contact: 073038 85697

Price: Rs 3,500/night onwards

7. Casa Menezes, Goa 

The 18th-century manor house surrounded by tropical gardens makes such beautiful scenery it could almost be mistaken for a postcard. The Batim village where this heritage bungalow is nestled, provides the quaint and ambient setting that takes the magic here up a notch. 

Whether your pooch wants to make a day out of running through the Pilar and Santa Ana hillocks or through the fields that lay beyond the rosewood and teak estate, they are bound to have a frolicking time. 

Address: 304, Gaunkarvaddo, Batim, PO Goa Velha Tiswadi, Panaji, Goa 403108

Contact: 098192 23009

Price: Rs 5,000/night onwards

8. Aerodene Cottage, Shillong 

The restored 60-year-old cottage bears the marks of trademark Assamese-style architecture, standing on stilts two feet off the ground. The corrugated iron roof, the walls made with bamboo and lime and sand repel moisture providing guests with a cosy experience even in harsh weather. 

As one of the only boutique homestays in this region, you are bound to have a luxurious stay experience. The hosts welcome pets and love them!

Address: Dhankheti, Malki, Shillong, Meghalaya 793003

Contact: 097740 65366

Price: Rs 3,400/night onwards

9. Chamong Chiabari Mountain Retreat, Darjeeling 

The tea tourism experience is specially curated for guests who want to immerse themselves in the serenity of the plantations and take a break from their usual routines. Wake up to foggy mornings sipping on the finest brewed tea from your very own garden while the blue-tinged mountains of Darjeeling beckon. With so much space to run about your beloved cat or dog is in for a field day. 

Address: Tumsong Tea Estate, Darjeeling, Tumsong Tea Garden, West Bengal 734102

Contact:099031 36498

Price: Rs 15,400/night onwards

10. Karma Lakelands, Gurugram 

Karma Lakelands is an ironic paradise in the heart of India’s busy Gurugram, providing guests a palatial leisure spot to unwind. There are a myriad of activities to choose from, including beekeeping, watching eco bricks being made from plastic, golfing on the nine-hole course and more. 

But what sets it apart is the gold course that is an endless stretch of green, and the 25-acre nursery resplendent with trees. For pet parents who want to opt for a homestay where your baby will have ample space to run about, this is the perfect choice. 

Address: NH-8, Sector 80, Gurugram, Haryana 122002

Contact: 095999 44988

Price: Rs 11,000/night onwards

As fate would have it, the answer was right before them — their 10-acre ancestral land in Sindhudurg’s Parule village in Maharashtra, where the Pravin, Priya, and their son Prathamesh had spent their entire lives. The area, surrounded by nature and plantations, had been a sense of comfort and safety for a long time. 

“What if we were to set up cottages here and invite people to book their vacations?” thought Pravin one day, sharing this idea with his wife, who was excited at the prospect of having city folk over and sharing their village culture with them.  

“That moment was the inception of Maachli,” Prathamesh tells The Better India. 

Maachli, an eco-friendly farm stay, encourages guests to leave the hustle of the city at the doors and walk into the world of nature. He shares a recent experience when veteran cricketer Sachin Tendulkar spent his 50th birthday at the farm stay, adding that it was a milestone for the family. And there are many more to come. 

‘The maachli concept of rural India’

The family thought it wise to test the waters first. They decided to lease out two rooms in their house for guests who wanted to experience the authentic Konkan lifestyle. “The whole experience of being on the farm, eating traditional food cooked on the chulha, and taking a detox from their hectic lives was the highlight,” says Prathamesh. “They loved it.” 

As a hotel management professional, Prathamesh knew the ins and outs of setting up a homestay. The amazing response from the guests only fueled the family’s dreams, and Maachli was opened to the public as a fully functioning eco-friendly homestay in 2012. The years spanning 2009 to 2012 were filled with big decisions and construction of the huts and cottages, which provide for great cross ventilation and cool breeze. 

Prathamesh says the idea was always being on the same page as nature. 

“The name maachli borrows inspiration from an old concept by the same name. Farmers would build themselves these huts for getaways or as places of rest and spend months here with their families. My grandfather, a farmer himself, did this many times. So when we decided to start homestays, we wanted to imbibe this concept.” 

The idea of Maachli was to help people experience what living on an actual farm means, spending time amidst the expanse of banana, groundnut and spice trees, and leaving with a bucketload of experiences to treasure.  

Live the Konkan life to the fullest

Everything at Maachli imbues sustainability — right from the six cottages made with coconut wood and devoid of ACs to the activities planned for guests. 

Mornings begin with glorious views of the spice plantations that span for miles around the farm, while evenings end with fried Konkan snacks prepared by the local women. The core idea is for guests to get out of their rooms and into the heart of nature. The climate, too, is in favour of this.  

“As soon as people enter the premises, they experience a noticeable temperature drop. It is cool and pleasant,” notes Prathamesh. Perhaps the plantations and gardens filled with trees are to thank for this. Coconut, betel nut, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, amaranth, radish, carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, and more bloom and make their way into the Konkan dishes at the homestay. 

The family also encourages guests to take a much-needed digital detox while here. 

And what is there to do with all the time on hand, you ask? Well, a lot. 

“Plantation tours are conducted where we take guests around the place and introduce them to the benefits of all the medicinal spices and plants. There are also grasslands and jungles in the area where they can simply relax or take a hike,” explains Prathamesh. 

He adds that the neighbouring pottery village is a fascinating draw, and for Rs 1,000, guests can take a class from an expert potter. For those who wish to relax or engage in water sports, there are the nearby beaches. The Bhogwe Beach is a walk from the farm stay and a secluded beach if you are looking for serenity, while the Khavane Beach is popular for water sports. 

No one who comes to Maachli leaves without paying a visit to the glorious Sindhudurg Fort. Standing tall near the crescent-shaped Malvan beach, the fort was built by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj around 1665. While it has seen several changes through the years, several temples in the premises are still functional and garner a lot of attention. For those who would like to spend time on the farm itself, you can learn organic farming, go for a boat ride on the backwaters and even cook your own meal on the traditional chulha.  

Geetanjali, one of the guests who spent three days at Maachli, says she couldn’t ask for a better getaway. “The cottages are elegant and tasteful and responsible tourism shines through every aspect of their hospitality, such as the dining and the amenities in the cottage. But the loveliest part about our stay at Maachli was the hospitality extended to us by the Samanth family.” 

Just the way guests love the aura and ambience of Maachli, so do Pravin and Priya. “I have grown up with trees and nature around,” says Pravin. “The trees at our farm have always been our companions. So today, when our guests enjoy the same environment, it gives us great joy.” 

“We don’t regard this period of our life as our retired ones. Instead, we consider it as a more flourishing, focused and purposeful time,” he adds. 

Edited by Divya Sethu

Describing the beauty of this town is almost like trying to interpret a postcard. Nestled amid the backdrop of the glorious Zabarwan mountain ranges, it holds a fascination for every traveller who makes their way here. Aamir Khanyari recalls that when his grandfather arrived here in 1965, he was no exception. 

He was so taken up with this land, its beautiful orchard, and its charm, that he decided to purchase it and build a home for the family. This quest eventually led to ‘My Kashmir Home’, a tranquil homestay that is today run and managed by Aamir. 

The happiest memories 

Speaking to The Better India, Aamir, now in his forties, recounts that a lot of his passion for travel and the world stemmed from the growing years his family spent in Nishat and Shalimar. 

“Childhood was filled with the sweetness of the peaches, plums and apricots that we would get from these trees in the orchard,” he says. The home that Aamir’s grandfather had beautifully constructed for them was a place of laughter, chatter and stories — ones that for some of his happiest memories. 

“My grandfather was assisted by two renowned Indo-French architects, who later became best family friends. The aim was not just to build a house, but rather to create a home,” shares Aamir.

His favourite memories growing up were the lush green gardens that expanded across the driveway, and the walnut furniture that adorned the interiors, which he says “has collected stories of people and places from a variety of cultures, customs, thoughts, and attitudes”. 

“The traditional Kashmiri carpet, decor, and handicrafts introduce a tasteful simplicity, which over the years has built the home’s reputation within the circles of Kashmir and around the world.”

After his grandfather passed away in 1984, things came to a slow pause for a while. The children grew up and moved out, and while the house continued to be looked after and cared for, it served its purpose more as a vacation home for Aamir’s parents during the summer. Meanwhile, Aamir and his wife were busy backpacking through the world and have had adventures in 50 countries and counting. When they weren’t exploring a new place, they’d come back to the home they loved so much. 

But it was only in 2014 that Aamir wondered something. 

“I grew up in this house and came to love it so much. Why not invite others to explore and enjoy the warmth of a traditional Kashmiri home too?” 

This thought was the conception of ‘My Kashmir Home’. Highlighting the meaning behind the name, Aamir shares, “It was always my home, since I’ve lived here since my childhood. I wanted it to be your home when you come here. That’s why the name.”  

Ever since 2014, guests from all over India as well as overseas have been welcomed with open arms to witness the beauty of the Kashmir Valley, all the while enjoying the luxuries of the homestay. 

Every room has a story 

Once he came up with a plan, a lot was to be done, says Aamir, who was working in his family jewellery business at the time. Nishat, where the house is located, is classified as a ‘green belt’, which meant that they could not carry out too many structural modifications and constructions. 

So the house that guests book for their stay is the very same that has existed since 1965. 

The 10,000 sq-metre property is palatial, housing the suites, the orchards, and the kitchen garden. Aamir says each suite has been named after a gemstone. This serves two purposes — it gives the room a theme, and reflects the family’s history with jewellery. 

“There are three super luxury suites: Ruby, Sapphire, and Emerald. Each is decked in upholstery and colours of the gemstone, is 1,000 sq-ft, and equipped with all amenities such as a water kettle, a fridge, a flat-screen TV, WiFi, AC, and anything that people might need. A sitting area, a dining space, a kitchenette, bathroom accompany every room.” 

The five semi-luxury rooms are named Garnet, Quartz, Topaz, Lapis, and Agate. Keeping to the tune of the gemstones, Aamir says, “In the future, we see a Diamond room with a 360-degree view.” 

He adds that the heating blankets on the beds ensure that guests can always be warm, even when the weather outside is chilly. And even as a blanket of snow covers the orchards in Nishat, a kitchen garden is always in bloom. 

Aamir shares that the garden is an abundant source of all their daily greens — potatoes, corn, onions, garlic, zucchini, cucumbers and more — and that the family rarely has to venture to the market for their produce. 

Ishita, one of the guests who visited in May this year, describes her stay as “wonderful”. “It’s a beautiful place, a heritage home where all the modern amenities are made available. The food was delicious and was prepared exactly how we had requested. My daughter enjoyed picking strawberries in the beautifully manicured garden. It was a memorable experience and I would surely love to spend another vacation at this place.”

A meal fit for kings 

Perhaps every guest who has stayed at the homestay will agree that the main draw here is the traditional and authentic Kashmiri wazwan. 

Coined from two Kashmiri words, ‘waz’ meaning cook and ‘wan’ meaning shop, the Wazwan came to India in the 14th century when Timur, a Mongol ruler, invaded India. 

“While the original version comprised seven dishes, over the years, the feast has stretched to serve thirty, mostly mutton, dishes,” explains Aamir. “Each part of the sheep is used to prepare specific dishes as per the recipes. The first dish served is rista — meatballs cooked in mutton stock, mild spices like cardamom and cloves, garlic, and Kashmiri chillies that add more colour than spice to the food. The methimaaz is cooked in mutton stock, mild spices, and fenugreek leaves. For the tabakhmaaz, whole ribs are boiled with salt and garlic. Then, after chopping it into smaller pieces, the fried crispy brown delicacy is served piping hot. Finally, for the rogan josh, medium chunks of meat from the sheep’s lower back are slow-cooked in gravy.”

He adds, “The feast takes 24 hours to prepare.” 

Other dishes at ‘My Kashmir Home’ include harissa lamb cooked with oats, trout, Kashmiri Kehwa, and Marchewangan Korma, among others. Like the food, everything at the homestay is rooted in Kashmir’s heritage and tradition.

Meanwhile, Aamir, who watches his guests enjoy every moment of their time here, says that when he started out, the intention was never for their guests to be tourists, but rather feel that this was their home. “This is now true.” 

Edited by Divya Sethu

Anyone who heard Rajan’s intent would laugh out loud, dismissing his thoughts as mere wishful thinking. After all, countless properties lay in ruins across the country. What made him think this particular piece of land would be an exception?

But Rajan believed it would.

Today, Ayra Farms — a farm stay situated six hours from Mumbai — is a nature lover’s dream with cottages that open their doors to lush gardens, hiking trails and more. As his daughter Noopur Chaughule, who is a culinary professional, recounts, it has been a winding path that has led the family to this moment.

“And the journey was worth it,” she says.

‘There was just something about this land. My father knew it’

While Rajan’s lucrative career as a journalist was taking off and life seemed impeccably perfect, he would often get away from the city and travel to his ancestral land.

“This was the place where my grandfather grew up. My great grandfather was the zamindar here,” Noopur shares, adding that it is at least 50 years old. “My father would often visit the village during his summer holidays as a child. The land always held something fascinating that would keep pulling him back here, in spite of his city life.”

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In 2014, Rajan couldn’t ignore this any longer and decided to start where he was, with what he had, and turn this ancestral land into a space he could call ‘home’ once again. He began the tedious process by planting trees, clearing the dilapidated foliage, and preserving the existing greenery.

The next task was to build the home.

Although the initial plan was for this to be their second home, which they could visit for vacations, Noopur’s mother Sadhana played a pivotal role in the decision to turn it into their main residence.

“In reality, it was always my wife who made us a conscious family,” says Rajan, referring to his wife taking the call for them to quit their city jobs, move to the village, and set up their lives. “There was also a strong influence from the community I belonged to. Together, my wife and I made more sustainable choices.”

And so, Rajan and Sadhana began living in the quiet and solace of Guhagar. Meanwhile, Noopur, who was working in Toronto at the time, was amazed at this cocoon her parents had created in a land that everyone once perceived as ‘gone’.

She decided to pay a visit here in 2020. “I was pregnant at the time, and it was also when the COVID lockdown struck. I was stuck here and couldn’t return back. In fact, I even delivered my baby here!”

Noopur recalls the next couple of years being an eye-opener for her.

“I watched my baby grow up around nature and watched as it influenced her. I realised I had found my purpose in life — to build a project of my own here and preserve the space.”

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Ayra Farms is born

There is still much to do on the four-and-a-half acre plot of land that houses Ayra Farms, which has two cottages, a tent area, a cowshed, and a kitchen garden, which blooms with vegetables like cabbage, cauliflower, spinach, chillies, pumpkins and cucumbers.

“Right now, there is the farm stay where four adults can stay for Rs 5,000 a night. We provide homemade meals and the menu is seasonal. It changes every three months.”

She points to the food being a mixed cuisine of her learnings from Toronto, her mother’s secrets, and a local Maharashtrian cook’s recipes. Among the specialities here, there is Kerela stew with grilled chicken, bhajleli ratali (roasted sweet potato), grilled fish fillet with a chimichurri sauce, kalva (oyster) curry, steamed yoghurt, crab curry, and prawns pulao.

While the food is a delight, the space has been designed to make the most of the heavy rains that Guhagar receives, while the rooms have high ceilings providing a lot of ventilation.

While Noopur reveals their future plans — which include constructing additional eco-friendly homes using locally sourced materials and establishing a community kitchen, a yoga centre, and a workshop — she expresses her belief that the future holds great promise for these endeavours.

There is also a village project that Ayra Farms is a part of — a dam that has significantly improved the water levels, she says. “The groundwater is literally blue!”

While spending time on the farm has been the best part of her life, Noopur watches in awe as her baby girl Ayra grows up around these natural elements. Whether it is playing with the animals around or finding natural pigments that she can use instead of traditional chalk while she plays, there is always something to be explored and enjoyed at Ayra Farms.

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Ayra’s grandfather too shares this sense of wonder.

As he traces back to the journey of how this all unfolded, he says, “I never expected Noopur to take interest in this project. It was a complete surprise especially when she showed consistency in her work here. And not to miss my granddaughter!”

He adds that just watching Ayra play around the farm is the most satisfying feeling for him. “She will go feed the cows, run around the house with laughter in her eyes, draw on the floor, and take me out for walks. It feels so good to be able to create something where not only us, but all the generations to come will benefit in one way or the other.”

As dusk settles in the village, Rajan’s favourite pastime is to go sit near the water tank that they have built on the highest point of the land. “At any given time, day or night, the view is absolutely spectacular. I sometimes like to go up there to just sit and watch the clouds pass by.”

Edited by Pranita Bhat

The Cheese Cottage has an eclectic ring to both its name as well as the beautiful experiences it offers to its guests. With polished, elegant wooden interiors and luxurious furnishings, the cottage seems like it has borrowed a lot of inspiration from fairytale books. And behind this beautifully done-up two-floor work of art is Insha Qazi, whose pride for her birthplace is reflected in every corner of the home.  

The 32-year-old civil engineer, who has a marketing degree from the UK returned to Kashmir in 2015. Intent on spreading her passion among the young minds in her hometown, she started what went on to become one of the valley’s first fashion and design schools. Since 2016, the SSMD School of Fashion & Design at Parihaspora has been churning out batches of individuals adept at carving a niche for themselves in the world of fashion and interiors. 

The root intent of all her work, says Insha, has always been to create employment opportunities for the youth of Kashmir, who exhibit so much creativity and only need an outlet. So is the case of The Cheese Cottage. 

A royal land in ruins 

In the year 2000, Insha’s parents stumbled upon an estate land established in 1943 in Tangmarg, Kashmir. The land, which they say belonged to Maharaja Hari Singh Ji — the last ruling king of Jammu & Kashmir — was in ruins and under the custody of a royal family. Insha’s parents took one look at the land and knew it was a paradise in the making, if only seen through the right eyes. They purchased the land that same year and began growing orchards amid the ruins. 

When Insha returned to Kashmir, she was astounded by this land’s beauty. “Tangmarg has a rich tradition of dairy, and my first thought was to set up a cheese factory and utilise the local resources and skills. With its pine-scented air, sunrises and scenic beauty, Tangmarg would be a great place for tourists,” says Insha in conversation with The Better India. 

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Insha began work on setting up the cheese factory in 2020, where they began making gouda, kalari, and more. But a month in, they soon had to shut shop when the COVID lockdown hit. 

When one door closes, another opens soon enough. So as Insha sat wondering how she could let such a beautiful space go to waste, she realised there were numerous avenues that were waiting to open for her. 

“Looking at the snow-clad peaks of the valley, the stream bubbling out from the estate, I just knew what I wanted to do in this space,” says Insha, referring to her dream of designing a home here. 

The Cheese Cottage Homestay is a haven for anyone looking to immerse themselves in the beauty of the valley, while also opting for a more peaceful trip in the mountains. But, says Insha, what was most fascinating about setting up the homestay was being able to imbibe her own love for art into its every corner. 

Inspiration was everywhere 

As a patron of arts, Insha says she spent her college years marvelling at how culture sows its seeds through art. So her design philosophy was to opt for local material like deodar wood and walnut wood, famous for their rot-resistant character and native to Kashmir. Having lived in Europe and studied Western art, she wanted the cottage to be reflective of European industrial age design — jewel-toned upholstery and gothic interiors. 

“We sourced a local wicker man to design wicker plant holders, bathroom baskets, etc. We also used handcrafted Kashmiri carving copperware known as traam. This is usually used in weddings to display the food, and we used it in the form of sinks, etc,” says Insha. 

At the time, Insha simply wanted a space for her family. She had no intention of a homestay. But it was only when the construction and decor was completed, and she put up pictures on social media, that requests started pouring in from people, who all said the same thing – “Can we book a night here?” 

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And in September 2022, The Cheese Cottage went from being Insha’s dream to the dream vacation home of several people around the globe. “The 30-acre land looks straight out of a period drama,” she points out as she takes us on a virtual tour of the home. 

“There are two luxury rooms and two standard rooms. Antique clocks around the home, coupled with provincial French chairs, exquisite chandeliers, dramatic lighting, gilded mirrors and paintings and textured lighting, are the main draw,” she says. 

Guests love sitting by the fireplace that immediately renders a cosy vibe to the hallroom, which is filled with chintz armchairs, larger than life paintings and vintage decor that Insha has sourced from local markets around Kashmir and Europe. 

For guests who are of a more adventurous nature and want to explore the outdoors, there’s the Drung waterfall in Tangmarg, which originates from glaciers and freezes completely in winters forming large icicle structures that take the beauty of the place up several notches, if that were possible. Insha adds, “Guests often take a picnic and have it by the brook or do a heritage walk wherein they explore the town. There are plenty of activities of everyone.” 

After a day of adventure, she says, there is always a hearty meal awaiting guests. 

“We have traditional dishes such as woste haakh (red amaranth cooked in Kashmiri spices), dagith handh (pounded dried dandelion leaves stew), kangucchi pulav (mushrooms cooked in lightly flavoured rice), marchawagan korma (mutton cooked in red chilli gravy), daniwal korma (mutton cooked in yoghurt and coriander) and waaz kokur (a special chicken preparation), as well as hamburgers, pizzas, pastas, aubergines in tamarind sauce, etc.” The vegetables that go into the dishes are straight from the blooming orchards on the property. Acres of walnut, pine, oak, apple, plum, pear trees make The Cheese Cottage a delightful space for a nature lover. 

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The milk, meanwhile, comes from the cows reared here. All of this can be enjoyed by guests for Rs 25,000 a night. 

Shubham, one of the guests, termed his experience “a very comfortable one”. “I had great views of some of the prominent Himalayan peaks. Shivraj the caretaker is warm and helps you explore nearby areas. He is a great cook too. He cooked us some local delicacies which were awesome. Don’t forget to explore a nearby village called Naugaon. it’s a small farmer’s village which has its own unique culture.”

Meanwhile, Insha, who says the cottage has been a full house ever since they started welcoming guests, is proud of her labour of love. “I grew up loving Kashmir and always planned on coming back even after I went overseas. Now that I am able to have others marvel at my hometown, it makes me happy.” 

Whilst you get the details of your trip ironed out, don’t stress about the stay. These homestays in Srinagar are just what you need to make the most of your trip.

1. Mahatta Homestay

The iconic Dal Lake is only 4 km away from the homestay, making it a wonderful option if you plan to spend most of your time in the serenity of the lake. The homestay is also within walking distance from the main shopping hub of the city. It is run by the Mahatta family, who are aficionados of photography. The ambience, food and decor are inspired by generations of the family who have been living in Kashmir since the 19th century.

Address: C 26, Raj bagh, Srinagar, Kashmir – 190001

Contact: 9796079747

Price: Rs 4,000/night onwards

2. Ikraam Inn

If you are someone who loves spending your vacations exploring the town, visiting every tourist spot you’ve read about, and making memories, you’d love staying at the Ikraam Inn. As it turns out, the majority of the tourist spots — the historical Mughal Gardens, Tulip Garden, Botanical Garden, Hazratbal Shrine, Shankaracharya Temple and Dal Lake — are within half an hour’s drive from the inn. The delicious Kashmiri home-cooked meals served here are an added bonus.

Address: Rajbagh Extension, Hurriyat Road, Srinagar, Kashmir – 190008

Contact: 9797067897

Price: Rs 4,000/night onwards

3. SheenWynds Homestay

The 70-year-old homestay, owned by a Punjabi family, is what reviews call “a perfect way to spend a vacation”. Located in Pahalgam, the house is a beautiful getaway from the hustle and bustle of metropolitan cities. The owner Shaan ji is more than happy to spend time with guests, telling them stories of the wonderful Srinagar. What’s more is that breakfasts are served outdoors in the fruit orchards, making for a charming scenic view.

Address: Mehtab House, Magarmal bagh, Magarmal bagh chowk, Srinagar, Kashmir – 190001

Contact: 9103092526

Price: Rs 3,696/night onwards

4. Shangraff Mountain House

The Mahadev Peak in Srinagar is a popular one, also known to be one of the few that is snow-clad for most of the year. The peak is a part of the Zabarwan mountain range, acclaimed for its majestic appeal. What’s fascinating is that residents of the Shangraff Mountain House can wake up to this breathtaking view every day. The homestay is almost like a cosy lodge nestled in the foothills of the mountains with fruit orchards spread out for miles around. Don’t miss out on a trip to the Dachigam forest whilst here, home to the endangered Kashmir stag.

Address: 1, Syed Baba Rd, Rainawari, Srinagar, Kashmir – 191123

Contact: Here

Price: Rs 12,000/night onwards

5. The Cottage Nigeen

Staying at The Cottage Nigeen is like having your story moment come true. The rooms are bright and done up in floral colours of pink, green and beige — almost a match with the garden outside that blooms with roses, apples, pears and more. The homestay is taken care of by a Kashmiri couple and borrows its name from its iconic location on the banks of Nigeen Lake. 

“The Cottage is filled with memories of our yesteryears and our children who have moved on in life. It was thrown open to guests just to share the joys of having lived in a Kashmiri house,” says the host, Riyaz.

Address: Mirza Bagh Nigeen Hazratbal, near Nigeen Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir – 190006

Contact: +9697985515

Price: Rs 6,000/night onwards

6. My Kashmir Home

The story of this homestay traces right back to the 1960s when the Khanyari family settled down here. The homestay is now run by Aamir Khanyari, the grandson, who says it was born out of a simple idea to welcome people to see the beauty of a Kashmiri home in all its authenticity. Seekh kebabs (a meat delicacy), Kashmiri pickles, and Kashmiri harissa (a traditional mutton curry) are a few of the favourites on the menu.

Address: Gulshan Gousia, next to B.S.F. Camp, Ishber Nishat, Srinagar, Kashmir – 191121

Contact: 9822128675

Price: Rs 8,000/night onwards

7. Mountain View Villa

A boutique homestay located a kilometre away from the famous Nishat Garden, the Srinagar Homestay is taken care of by Yasmin Ali. You can count on her for her fare of authentic Kashmiri cuisine or even take your picnic to the neighbouring gardens. This is a nature lover’s paradise with activities like boating, bird watching, forest walks and more.

Address: Nishat Mountview Villa Uphill Lane, Srinagar, Kashmir – 191121

Contact: 9797211919

Price: Rs 10,000/night onwards

(Edited by Pranita Bhat)

“Are you sure you want to do a solo trip? Is it safe?” These were some of the questions that had stopped Priti’s friends from undertaking solo trips themselves. However, in her case, there was an additional obstruction. 

The 31-year-old from Uttar Pradesh was diagnosed with epilepsy at a very young age. The family was already ridiculed enough, she says, for not having a son, and so her diagnosis gave people in the neighbourhood more reason to point a finger and jeer. 

“I remember when I was born, no one informed my father about my gender, thinking it would be a disappointment. But my father consoled my crying mother and told her that my daughters are my pride. That’s how he always encouraged us to achieve our dreams irrespective of gender roles,” she says. 

‘When I was diagnosed, people said, ‘Don’t tell anyone’.’

Following graduation and then a filmmaking course, Priti’s schedule was chaotic. It was during this time, in 2015, that she had an epileptic attack while on her way to the airport. 

“I was admitted to AIIMS, Delhi. When I was diagnosed, people would say no one would marry me and things like that. Owing to my hectic schedule, people would ask me how I would ever be able to take the long hours. But at my lowest, I found solace in travel.” 

At 23, Priti wanted to get away from the noise of it all and take a solo trip. When she wasn’t able to find company, she decided she didn’t need any. “I went to Dharamshala for my first trek. That was the start to my journey. These treks taught me that if you have the will power, there is nothing that can stop you.”

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